Thursday, January 26, 2017

Late Victorian and Late Edwardian Undergarments!

From the seller:

Slip #1 (left in photo)-Victorian, waist-24", bust-40", skirt-39" long, double lace flounce measures 17" wide, 3-button back with 3 hook and eye, 7 gore skirt adds fullness to skirt without added bulk, the front and sides of skirt are not gathered, back of skirt is softly gathered, bodice is very full at bust with a scoop neckline and shoulder bands would sit lower on the shoulder or upper arm
Slip #2 (right in photo)-Edwardian, empire waist-26", bust-40", hips-44", skirt from empire waist to hem-40" long, flounce measures 14" wide, 3 hook and eye back closure, broderie anglaise lace bodice and flounce, square neckline

From Me:

The one thing I have trouble with is making pretty undergarments for my gowns. This is why I love the second petticoat slip so much! Look, she used the petticoat hemming to make the bodice! And then left over lace for the straps! So easy and yet so lovely.

The Victorian one is very much 1890's (all that lace!). The Edwardian one is late Edwardian going into early Teens era.

Regency/Empire Era Bodice

From the seller:

A very pretty yound ladies lawn or muslin printed bodice dating to 1805 - 1810. It is for a small lady or a girl.

The material is fine cotton lawn or muslin with a stripe effect. It is printed with flowers and fronds in light cinnamon. It has long sleeves, also lined in cotton. There are two little brass rings at the back, for attaching a skirt, or possibly a belt.

The condition is excellent, and it is a charming example of early 19th century summer fashion.

Measurements: Across shoulders 13". Bust about 13" across.

It is lined in cotton and has front ties.

From Me:

There are several examples of this style of bodice:

Looking at the extant bodice here, I was confused at first. I think what is going on is that this worn much later as part of a costume - which is why we see the hooks and eyes on the outside of the bodice. Those were used to hold up a Victorian or Edwardian era skirt much, much later.

The sleeves appear to have this slight flare at the cuffs with a bulging elbow that then goes back to a normal looking sleeve.  I've included a couple of examples from Museums but it appears to be mostly a 1795-1805 thing.   Not the best range, but, given all the different dates, I'm going with around 1805 for this one.

Monday, January 23, 2017

1890's Green Velvet Dress Bodice

From the seller:

Fresh to market from NY antique estate.

Silk lined, soft lush velvet, silk jabot (if you will in front) and smaller pleated satin on the back on top of neck. Has stays as depicted, hook and eyes on front. Gorgeous beading on front, back sides and sleeves. Thin shattered lace on wrist cuffs. 13" across shoulders x 18" long x 24" waist x 32" chest. I find no loss to the gorgeous bead work. I find no holes or damage with the exception of the front white silk being grungy. On very careful inspection there are a few teeny rust spots. Feels firm and strong, however I am offering this only for "pattern, study, display, or refurbish.

Gorgeous addition for any antique clothing collection.

From Me:

1894 Fashion Plate

I can easily see this as a lady's Christmas dress bodice. The style ends at the natural waist and doesn't appear to have the pigeon front yet. I believe this is from 1893/1894 time frame.

Friday, January 20, 2017

1770's Men's Outfit Pinstripes!

From the seller:

Rarely Found Offered On The Open Market

Acquired From A Private Collection Deaccession

Original Unaltered Condition

Three Piece Construction, Sewn All By Hand

Fashioned of a Brown Striped Silk

The Breeches With Fall Front, Lined In Flannel Inside

Waistcoat Buttons Closed With Covered Thread Buttons, Flares In Points At The Outer Hips, Would Lace Closed Up The Rear, The Cord Not Original

The Court Coat Falls Long, Covered Buttons Trim Front As Well As The Turned Up Cuffs

The Breeches Have Missing Buttons, The Metal Buttons Seen Are A Replacement. The Inner Jacket Was Relined In The Early 19th C, Linen Label In The Lining. There Is A Large Water Stain On The Inner Lining Only, Not Seen From The Outside. Minor Edge Fray At Breeches Waist With Several Small Brown Stains. Shirt Not Included.

It Is So Rare To Find These Early Suits Complete And In Such Pristine Condition As This. Could Be Worn If So Desired, Not Recommended.

Measurements In Inches

Court Coat:
Chest: 36
Waist: 34
Center Rear Length: 44
Shoulders: 15
Sleeve Length: 24

Waist Coat:
Chest: 40
Length In Front: 31

Waist: 34
Inseam: 14
Outseam: 27

From Me:

I was originally hesitant to post this one until I read the description - I knew the metal buttons weren't right at all. There were other alterations that made me think this was more likely a really amazing Victorian Fancy Dress type outfit but the seller's explanation makes perfect sense. So, yes, it really is 1770's.

A similar one up for sale at Christies
A decade earlier but stripes!
A little over a decade later but still stripes!

1890's Women's Jacket

From the seller:

This antique Victorian era black wool womens winter sportswear ice skating mutton sleeve coat dates from 1890. It is made of a black heavy wool fabric. This wonderful womens winter sportswear ice skating coat jacket has a short mid length fitted tailored style, with leg of mutton gigot style long full sleeves voluminous on the upper arm and tapering down to a tight fit cuff, double breasted carved mother of pearl button front closure, side pockets, a fold over lapel collar with velvet trim decorative stitching accents and has remnants remaining of the original black silk lining inside. The coat measures 25 inches long, with a 38 inch bust, 28 inch waist, 25 inch long sleeves and is 11 inches across the back shoulder seam. It is in fair as-is condition, has not been cleaned. has several small stains, slight fade discoloration in areas, frayed inside lining, is missing a mop button and has several small moth holes scattered in areas (see close-ups). Great for design, display, study or pattern. This is truly a rare and unique piece of antique Victoriana womens sportswear wearable art!

From Me:

It dates from the 1890's not 1890 - there is a big difference there. Drives me nuts when people do that. 1890 is a year - technically still a part of the 1880's. There was no year zero. When a monk during the "dark ages" decided to set up the calender we all now use, he was using his Roman math - the zero hadn't been introduced or used in the Western world. That would happen a few centuries later. 1890's is a decade. This jacket is not from 1890, it is from the 1890's.

1893 Fashion Plate

The jacket is most likely from 1893/1894.