Sunday, March 26, 2017

Late Victorian Turn of the Century Yellow Dress













From the seller:
Fanciful and extraordinary yellow silk trained gown with off-white fine net ruffles. The ruffles are made of a fine netting. They are applied on a white braid and then sewn onto the gown Bodice and cuffs have an inner lining of gold lame. Gold lame belt with two ornamental buckles. The material is in excellent condition as it's built on a cotton lining. Yellow velvet thin ribbons highlight the bodice. This antique outfit is in quite excellent condition. Only the inner lining of gold lame it’s darkened. Darker areas on the backside of the bodice. May be the ornamental buckles are newer. The decoration is not included.
Waist: ~ 24"
Bust: ~ 30"
Front Length: ~ 58"
Back Length: ~ 66"


From Me:

This is so frilly, so feminine, and yet so scandalous at the same time it's really amazing to look at. Why scandalous? Check out that neckline. See the sheer neck? See how low that sheer bit dips in the front? It's meant to look like it's covering everything when, really, it's sheer as sheer can be.

1899 Fashion Plate

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Late 1880's Day Dress in Blue and Red












From the seller:

Gorgeous bustle gown in a tone on tone stripe silk brocade and a contrasting red and navy velvet & twill silk brocade, ca. 1890. The waist has a collar in velvet with a pleat bib front and velvet stripe lapels. Gorgeous blue cut steel buttons close down the center front. Dart fitted under the bust through to the hemline. Pleated fan peplum rests on the bustle. Long, set in sleeves end with a turned under finish and velvet stripe fluted cuffs. The dart fitted and gored skirt falls in alternating panels of the brocades. Blue muslin section at the upper back skirt with a back hook closure. Over skirt falls in gathers from a string tie and rests across the bustle. Good condition. There is edge wear on some of the seams of the bodice. Underarm stains with minor breaking to the silk. There is a large greenish stain on the front hemline. A few pin holes on the lower overskirt. There are a couple other tiny dots, but nothing major. The decoration is not included.
Waist: ~ 23"
Bust: ~ 28"
Front Length: ~ 56"
Back Length: ~ 59"


From Me:

I love how garish this outfit is. It's like an understated patriotic dress that didn't quite want to go for the full red, white, and blue. However, based on the fit, this was probably for a young lady.  The colors were very popular in 1888.  Also, the sleeves in 1890 had already started to "poof", so this is probably from about 1888.

1888 Fashion Plate

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Edwardian Evening Gown in Cream by Worth!












From the seller:

Exceptional two piece evening gown, made of cream brocade silk, tulle and lace, ca. 1898. Woven petersham: “Worth, Paris”. Number: P 8804. Property deaccessioned by The Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts (MESDA), to benefit the collections and acquisitions funds. Hand written notice: „Evening Dress, Miss L.S. Drayer, worn about 1898“. Front pleated bodice with long tulle applications on a suggested belt. ½ sleeves made of lace. Tulle applications on the necklace and on the chest. Sequins embroideries in the chest area. Back closure with laces. Over the lacing a closure with hooks and eyes. Skirt with silk floral boarder, lace and floral embroidered lace. Long train. Very good condition. Stain on tulle and on front of the bodice. Stain on skirt on brocade on back. Old dirt. You’ll barely notice. The original laces are fragil and torn. The decoration is not included.
Bust: ~ 38"
Waist: ~ 29"
Front Length: ~ 60"
Back Length: ~ 88"


From Me:

I doubt this is from 1898. 1898 they were still having a last gasp of puffed sleeves with just a hit of puff at the shoulder. Rather, the fitted elbow length sleeve with flare around the cuff is much more in tune with the 1901/1902 time frame.

1902 Fashion Plate

Sunday, March 5, 2017

Summery Love! 1840's Sheer Dress














From the Seller:

Sehr schönes und in seiner Schlichtheit fast schon elegantes Sommerkleid aus der Biedermeierzeit, ca. 1845. Hergestellt aus weißem Leinen. Geraffte Schneppentaille. Rückwärtiger Verschluss mit Knöpfen und mit Haken und Ösen. Der glockenförmige Rock ist mit drei Reihen von Volants verziert. Halblange Ärmel, die mit feinster Spitze verziert sind. Sehr guter bis exzellenter Erhaltungszustand. Kaum wahrnehmbare, sehr dezente Verfärbungen an wenigen Stellen im Stoff. Ein Haken fehlt. Die Dekoration ist nicht inbegriffen.
Bust: ~ 78 cm
Waist: ~ 56 cm
Length: ~ 130 cm


From Me:

The bad google translation:

Very beautiful and in its simplicity almost elegant summer dress from the Biedermeier period, c. 1845. Made of white linen. Ruffled snap waist. Back closure with buttons and hooks and eyelets. The bell-shaped skirt is decorated with three rows of flounces. Half-bodied sleeves embellished with the finest lace. Very good to excellent condition. Barely perceptible, very subtle discolorations in a few places in the fabric. A hook is missing. The decoration is not included.
Bust: ~ 78 cm
Waist: ~ 56 cm
Length: ~ 130 cm


The bust is 30" and the waist is 20", which makes a lot of sense with what we are seeing. The waist has clearly been elongated with the addition at the waistline - easily covered by a belt. The growth pleats - although starting to be more of a fashion statement rather than actual pleats to be let out by the 1840s- are another indication that this is a young lady's dress and not one for a grown woman.

The shorter sleeves and the pleated front were very fashionable in the mid 1840's. It vaguely reminds me of this wedding gown in the MET's collection given the short sleeves and pleated front.

Thursday, March 2, 2017

STUNNING! White and Silver Edwardian Gown













From the seller:

Dreiteiliges Abend- oder Ballkleid, ca. 1903. Pariser Label: „Rue des Mathurines, Aline Buzenet, Paris“. Das aufwendig gearbeitet Oberteil ist typisch für ein Ball- oder Abendkleid: halbrunder, offener Halsausschnitt. Bestickt mit Glasstiften, verziert mit Tüll, Strass-Steinen und Spitze. Breiter Taillengürtel, der vorne und hinten mit Applikationen verziert ist. Neben dem Abendoberteil gibt es einen Einsatz, der den freien Halsausschnitt verdeckt. Er wurde tagsüber, unter dem aufwendig verarbeiteten Oberteil getragen. Der Rock ist – im Vergleich zum Oberteil – schlicht gehalten. Er ist aus weißer Seide gefertigt. Über diese ist ein Hauch von Seidentüll – wie ein Überrock – gezogen. Der Rock läuft in einer Schleppe aus. Sehr guter bis exzellenter Erhaltungszustand. Der Einsatz hat ein einer Stelle ein paar Löcher und winzige Flecken. Die Applikationen auf der Rückseite des Taillengürtels weisen leichten Stickerei-Schwund auf. Die Dekoration ist nicht inbegriffen.

Bust: ~ 34"
Waist: ~ 24"
Front Length: ~ 58"
Back Length: ~ 80"


From Me:

Since I don't know German, here's the Google translate version:

Three-piece evening or ball gown, ca. 1903. Paris label: "Rue des Mathurines, Aline Buzenet, Paris". The elaborately worked top is typical of a ball or evening dress: half-bared, open neckline. Embroidered with glasstifte, decorated with tulle, rhinestones and lace. Wide waist belt decorated with appliqués at front and back. In addition to the evening, there is an insert that covers the free neckline. It was worn during the day, under the elaborately worked top. The skirt is kept simple compared to the top. It is made of white silk. A touch of silk wreath - like an overcoat - is drawn over these. The skirt runs in a train. Very good to excellent condition. The insert has a one spot a few holes and tiny spots. The appliqués on the back of the waist belt have slight embroidery shrinkage. The decoration is not included

This looks like it was a presentation gown of some sort. It is absolutely fabulous.  Although the fashion plate below is a couple of years later, I do think this dress is probably more 1903 ish.   I just wanted to show a similar skirt style.   

1906 Fashion Plate