Regency/Empire Era Bodice

From the seller:

A very pretty yound ladies lawn or muslin printed bodice dating to 1805 - 1810. It is for a small lady or a girl.

The material is fine cotton lawn or muslin with a stripe effect. It is printed with flowers and fronds in light cinnamon. It has long sleeves, also lined in cotton. There are two little brass rings at the back, for attaching a skirt, or possibly a belt.

The condition is excellent, and it is a charming example of early 19th century summer fashion.

Measurements: Across shoulders 13". Bust about 13" across.

It is lined in cotton and has front ties.

From Me:

There are several examples of this style of bodice:

• Turkey Red (?) Print
• A dark print - notice it has the same shape of the sleeves and the "diamond" in the back
• Bright coral pink
• Natural and brick red print
• Colorful print - again, notice the sleeves

Looking at the extant bodice here, I was confused at first. I think what is going on is that this worn much later as part of a costume - which is why we see the hooks and eyes on the outside of the bodice. Those were used to hold up a Victorian or Edwardian era skirt much, much later.

The sleeves appear to have this slight flare at the cuffs with a bulging elbow that then goes back to a normal looking sleeve.  I've included a couple of examples from Museums but it appears to be mostly a 1795-1805 thing.   Not the best range, but, given all the different dates, I'm going with around 1805 for this one.

Another Regency Bodice Redone in the Victorian or Edwardian Era

From the seller:

This auction is for an original lady's ball gown bodice from the Empire period. It is made of brown silk taffeta. It is trimmed with fine ivory colored silk ribbon at the sleeves and neckline. It is lined with off-white cotton. The back is very narrow and the front crosses over and is secured, presumably by sewing it back in the day. Here, I have pinned it closed. There would have been a separate decorative front which would have covered the lining. The remains of the open-robe style skirt are still present at the high waist. Internally, you can see there was a set of ties to help secure the dress to the figure like a petersham did in the Victorian period. On the outside, you can see the beautiful silk cord and tassels are still present. Originally purchased from England.

Condition: No significant damage. The skirt was obviously cut away.

Measurements are: The bust measures 34 inches, The high waist measures 27 inches. 8.5 inches across the back.

From Me:

That waist tie again - so very Victorian/Edwardian. Also, the trim isn't period for the 1800's - but it is for the entire second half of the 19th century going well into the 20th century. The tassle rope was also added much later.

This was an apron front dress at some point in it's life.

1802 Fashion Plate

Sheer White Regency Dress and Slip

From the seller:

An early Regency period 1820’s muslin dress and muslin under slip. The under slip is original to the dress. The dress has a high Empire waist and is decorated with multiple rows of pin tucking. The dress is unlined and has a back button and loop closure. The sleeve cuffs also have a button and loop closure. The collar and sleeve cuffs have double ruffles and the armscyes and waist are piped. The slip has a high Empire waist and a back button closure. The dress and slip are all hand stitched. It is very rare to find an early dress with its original under slip. Both the dress and under slip are in crisp and clean condition. The dress has no holes and no underarm discoloration. There are missing loops on the back closure. The slip has a couple of very small period mends on the bodice and a couple of tiny pencil tip holes. Dress measurements: Bust 32 Empire waist 28 Skirt length 38. Slip Measurement: Bust 32 Waist 28 Skirt length 35 ½.

From Me:

1810 Fashion Plate via Sensibility

Notice what the lady in yellow is wearing. This dress is very similar. Since the plate is from 1810, I'm putting this in the 1800's tag.

Regency Era Bonnet

From the seller:

A simple but charming girl's brown glazed cotton bonnet dating to about 1810. The bonnet is nicely constructed and all hand stitched with a drawstring into the back neck, and ties.

This bonnet is in good condition with just a few pin holes in the back, only visible when held to the light.

The bonnet measures approximately 7" from crown to brim.

From me:



The one in the bottom left corner of the above 1801 fashion plate looks the most similar to the extant one.  However, this style was popular off and on for a while in the early 19th century so it could be much later.  

I took the fashion plate from Scene in the Past on flickr who states the following:

English fashion plates from 1801, and French fashion plates from Year 9 (1800-1801) of the French Republican Calendar. All images come from the collection of the Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs.
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/bibliotheque/

Regency Era Bra

From the seller:

This is a very rare corset or very early brassiere, dating from the first third of the 19th century. In a wrap around style, the front has gathered bust inserts, there is a slit at one side to thread one of the ties through. It's curved at the bottom in front. The ties, which are supposed to fasten in front, are too small for the mannequin.
It's entirely hand stitched, and has an opening at the top for a busk. The only similar garment I could find is in the Kyoto museum, where it is referred to as a "bra", theirs in two pieces, also wrapping around the high waist.

Very good condition, with some narrow streaks in front, some light brownish areas at one of the ties, a few other minor, age-related spots here and there, slight fray to the slit at the side. There are a few stitches taken at the top, probably to reinforce the seam where the busk poked through a bit. The color is a pleasing "homespun" tan/brown, best shown in the first and last pictures, without any green or reddish tones that might appear in the other pics. 1820-30.

From Me:

The ones the seller talks about from Kyoto are here.

This extant one reminds me, vaugely, of the Lengberg Castle bra find from a couple of years ago based on the way the cups are placed. Because of the style, the cross over back, and it's uniqueness, I believe this from the late 1790's/early 1800's. (ie, late Transition period).

Regency Era Striped Dress with Train

From the seller:

A very rare 1800-1810 textured and ribbon silk wedding or presentation dress. The bodice is gathered at the center bust area. The bodice has short sleeves. It is partly lined with cotton. There are decorative button son the back closure but no hooks or eyes. The closure shows signs of being just pinned in place. The dress has a high Empire waistline. The skirt has a long back sweep. The train is lined with cotton. The dress has age related flaws. As can be seen in the photos the lower front of the dress has a wide age discoloration and splits in the fabric in this same area. Along the way this area has been backed with linen. There is a ½ inch split near one armscyes and small pea size holes in the sleeves. The skirt has a few scattered small pea size holes and small age spots. The front hemline has a split in the fabric. (See photos.) Still a wonderful early dress to add to an early textile collection. The dress is for DISPLAY ONLY. Bust 30 High waist 28 Front skirt length 46 back length 80.

From Me:

Some of you might notice this is very similar to the dress I put up a few days ago. Both were sold by the same seller. The main difference in style is this one has a train. That's really about it. No lining in the front, same bodice style, buttons up the back, same striped fabric... I really wouldn't be surprised if this was some sort of wedding dress and the other was a bridesmaid's dress or if one was the presentation dress and the other was what one of the sisters who was already "out" wore.

Regency Era Striped Dress

From the seller:

A rare and early 1820’s Regency period dress. The dress is made of ivory textured and ribbon silk fabric. The bodice has short sleeves and a drawstring neckline. The dress has a high Empire waistline. The bodice is partly lined with cotton and the dress has a back button closure. There are scattered ½ inch to 2 inch splits in the fabric mostly in the skirt. Most of the splits are within the ribbon stripe fabric. There are a couple of nickel size age spots. (See photos.) The dress is a small size and for Display ONLY. Bust 29 Empire waist 24 Skirt length 40.

From Me:

Based on the lack of volume in the skirt, the bodice height and style, and the shape of the sleeves, I'm thinking this is a good 20 years older than what the seller believes. By the early 1820's, the bodice dropped about an inch (from the underbust to the lower ribs) and the skirts were much fuller that this.

Interesting to note - the front bodice of this dress isn't lined. I've noticed this in several extant garments from this era. It doesn't seem to be an "all the time" thing - but it does seem to be more common in fancier dresses.