1830's Riding Habit Waistcoat (?)

From the seller:



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Victorian Women's French Toile Blue Print Linen Double Breasted Waistcoat Vest

1860-1960 One hundred years of fashion & accessories
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This antique Victorian era women's French toile blue print linen double breasted waistcoat vest dates from the late 19th century. It is made of an off white, blue French Toile de Jouy floral botanical print linen fabric, with a grayish blue trim edging. There is an off white cotton linen fabric backing and inside lining. This wonderful women's waistcoat vest has a late 18th century gentlemens French waistcoat style which is longer in the front with peplum skirted panels, faux pockets, a fitted waist, fold over collar and is double breasted with matching fabric covered buttons for closure on the front. The vest measures 25 inches long in the front, 15 inches long in the back, with a 36 inch bust and 24 inch waist. It is in good as-is condition, with a few faint small stains, some fraying along the blue trim edging and a small frayed hole on the bottom front panel (see close-ups). This is truly a rare and unique piece of womens wearable antique Victoriana!



From Me:
UGH! Ignoring the "wearable" part for now - this isn't even Victorian. Oh yes, at first blush, it looks like it could be 1870's but look at the way the shoulders are cut. Look at how high the waistline is in the back. Also check out the close up of the fraying - the twill is handstitched on!

Then there is the fabric itself...that's what the big clue was. Yes, fabric is often reused but look:

1825 Fabric from the Winterthur Museum

1830s print from the Spencer Museum of Art via Barbara Brackman's Blog

1825-1830 via Utah Quilt Appraiser

Okay, so the fabric is from the 1820s/1830s but we see fabric reused all the time. Going back to the cut, I looked up riding habits of the time and was not disappointed.

The above 1830's Riding habit hints at the waistcoat underneath but I wanted to see if there was one that showed a similar waistcoat.

1836/7 fashion plate from the V&A

Although the back of the blue riding habit has the same lines as the back of the waistcoat, there aren't any easily visible waistcoats on the ladies. However, all the men do have the double breasted style very similar to this extant one.

There aren't any fashion plates from the 1830's that show a riding habit with a waistcoat (the funny thing is that you see them in both the 1820's and the 1840's) but the cut, particularly at the shoulders, is so very 1830's, that the latest I'd put this is about 1842.

1770's Men's Outfit Pinstripes!

From the seller:

Rarely Found Offered On The Open Market

Acquired From A Private Collection Deaccession

Original Unaltered Condition

Three Piece Construction, Sewn All By Hand

Fashioned of a Brown Striped Silk

The Breeches With Fall Front, Lined In Flannel Inside

Waistcoat Buttons Closed With Covered Thread Buttons, Flares In Points At The Outer Hips, Would Lace Closed Up The Rear, The Cord Not Original

The Court Coat Falls Long, Covered Buttons Trim Front As Well As The Turned Up Cuffs

The Breeches Have Missing Buttons, The Metal Buttons Seen Are A Replacement. The Inner Jacket Was Relined In The Early 19th C, Linen Label In The Lining. There Is A Large Water Stain On The Inner Lining Only, Not Seen From The Outside. Minor Edge Fray At Breeches Waist With Several Small Brown Stains. Shirt Not Included.

It Is So Rare To Find These Early Suits Complete And In Such Pristine Condition As This. Could Be Worn If So Desired, Not Recommended.

Measurements In Inches

Court Coat:
Chest: 36
Waist: 34
Center Rear Length: 44
Shoulders: 15
Sleeve Length: 24

Waist Coat:
Chest: 40
Length In Front: 31

Breeches:
Waist: 34
Inseam: 14
Outseam: 27




From Me:

I was originally hesitant to post this one until I read the description - I knew the metal buttons weren't right at all. There were other alterations that made me think this was more likely a really amazing Victorian Fancy Dress type outfit but the seller's explanation makes perfect sense. So, yes, it really is 1770's.

A similar one up for sale at Christies
A decade earlier but stripes!
A little over a decade later but still stripes!

Men's Colorful Waistcoat

From the seller:

1870s From France men's silk brocade vest in amazingly vibrant color. The brocade is in vibrant green teal, red blue and green. The buttons have a grape motif on the front and have been colored to match the color of the brocade pattern into which they are placed. By that I meat the top button is tinted red to coincide with the red of the flowers behind it. The second button green and the last three a very deep blue to match the background. The back of the waist coat is a chocolate brown glazed cotton with matching fabric Martingale. Lined in a white fine wool that has many moth holes. A little fraying to threads on the back of the neck. Other than that remarkable condition. Truly museum quality.
CONDITION: VERY GOOD
SIZE: CH-38, SH-15, LNG-21

From Me:

1850 Fashion Plate

The print was just too colorful and crazy to me to look 1870's. Also, the style seemed too long - much more late 1840's/early 1850's.

Rococo or Victorian Men's Waistcoat - you decide!

From the seller:

Vintage Antique 1700s VEST Waistcoat 36 EMBROIDERED METALLIC Silk Satin

ornate embroidery at front with some metallic stitching
fabric has metallic horizontal threads
buttons are embroidered with sequins
2 pockets, fully cotton lined
flannel back with 3 vents

Chest 36" (38 of fabric); Back length 26"



From Me:

Although the front looks 1760's~1770's, the back does not. The back looks very much like what you'd expect with a Victorian fancy dress outfit. So is this fancy dress or is it authentic? I'm not sure. Any thoughts either way?

Men's 18th century Waistcoat

From the seller:

Vintage Antique 1700s VEST Waistcoat 36 EMBROIDERED METALLIC Silk Satin

ornate embroidery at front with some metallic stitching
fabric has metallic horizontal threads
buttons are embroidered with sequins
2 pockets, fully cotton lined
flannel back with 3 vents

Chest 36" (38 of fabric); Back length 26"

From Me:

Most likely 1770's based on the cut. I love the embroidery!

Romantic Era Men's Waistcoat

From the seller:

DATING TO THE 1820’S

FASHIONED OF A CREME BENGALINE WITH A BLUE PINSTRIPE

STRIPING IS ON THE DIAGONAL

FABRIC COVERED BONE BUTTONS CLOSE THE FRONT

THICK COLLAR AROUND THE TOP

REAR IN LINEN WITH STITCHED GROMMET HOLES FOR LACING CLOSED

THERE IS SOME BROWN AGE COLOR SEEN TO THE REAR BACKING, SMALL AGE COLOR TO THE FRONT, THE FABRIC COVERING THE BUTTONS IS HEAVILY FRAYED WITH BONE SHOWING THROUGH. THERE IS A SMALL FRAY ON THE SIDE SHOULDER AS PICTURED

THERE IS SOME HEAVY STAINING SEEN ON THE INSIDE WITH SOME SMALL FRAY ON THE INNER COLLAR AND ON EACH SHOULDER

STRONG AND WEARABLE, A GREAT EARLY PIECE





MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:
CHEST: 36
WAIST: 34
LENGTH: 17


From Me:

This style was so popular for so long, it's hard to tell when exactly. However, I agree with the seller - most likely late 1820's.

1828 Fashion plate

What I find so unique about this one is the back. Rather than a buckle, there are eyelets to use a ribbon to tie it back and make it form fitting. Very cool! And it's probably a lot more doable for many of us to just make eyelets than it is to find a small buckle!