1840's Striped Sleeves

From the seller:




DATING TO THE 1840’S

FASHIONED OF COTTON WITH A STRIPING, LINED IN A SOLID COTTON

FULLY HAND SEWN

THESE WOULD HAVE BEEN ATTACHED TO A GOWN, REMOVEABLE TO MAKE ITHE GOWN SHORT SLEEVE





MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:

LENGTH: 14 1/2


From Me:

I swore up and down that I had posted these years ago along with the original fan front bodice. I looked and couldn't find it though. Given the length, they were meant to go under those short sleeves we see all the time in 1840's fashion plates.

1843 Fashion Plate

Cotton was then as cotton is today - your everyday wear. You would no more wear a ballgown of cotton then then you would today - unless it's blended with silk! Short sleeves were still accepted during the summers in the 1840's. That didn't go away until the next decade and then it takes a good lifetime to get short sleeves back!

1850's Bodice with Detachable Sleeves and Colorful Print

From the seller:

his bodice with detachable sleeves is an absolutely amazing find! I purchased it along with other fabulous antique clothing and linens at an estate sale.

The bodice and sleeves are completely handmade. Unfortunately, the skirt is missing.
Back in the day, people lived by the "waste not, want not" philosophy. Fabric was hard to come by; expensive and scarce if purchased, and amazingly labor intensive to fabricate oneself. Therefore, every shred was used and reused.

Gowns that were no longer in style were redesigned. If they were outgrown, they were altered or used for other clothes or quilts. I fear that is what happened to the skirt of this outfit.

Since the wearer of this dress was an incredibly dainty little morsel of femininity, I am showing it on one of my child mannequins. It has the classic design popular in the 1850s and 1860s: sweatheart neckline coming to the point of the shoulders with short sleeves, a basque waistline with a very narrow, deep V in front.

The bodice is lined in cotton, but I'm not sure whether the outer fabric is also cotton or a silk blend. The printing is bright, crisp and clean and the fabric itself is in MINT, PRISTINE condition.

It has hook and eye closures in the back and a dainty little rolled flower design at the back waist. It's fascinating that the long, detachable sleeves were kept safely packed away with the bodice; another example of the philosphy of the time.

Few women had the luxury of a lavish wardrobe and if she were lucky enough to have a special occasion dress, having the option of adding long sleeves made it even more wearable. In the 19th century, "respectable" women did not bare their arms during the day or for non-formal occasions. These sleeves allowed her to wear this special dress during the day for receiving visitors or for going to church.

I custom make wedding gowns so I've done plenty of delicate, tedious sewing, but I bow down to the talents of this seamstress. Some of these stitches are only 1/16" long--not to mention all the tiny, impecabbly done piping that outlines the seams, armholes, waist, and neckline. Whoever created this dress was a highly skilled seamstress.

The condition of the fabric is so pristine, believe it or not, this bodice could actually be worn,but the wearer would have to be about 4'10" tall with a bust measurement of about 32" and a waist of 21".

I feel honored to have been able to touch and inspect this historic garment and if it weren't for taxes and horses, I'd proudly display it in my antique home. This truly belongs in a museum or in the collection of someone who adores antique clothing as much as I do.



From Me:

First, I adore this print for some reason.
Second, it's from the 1850's. The pointed front and the slope of the shoulders are indications of the earlier date. Also, there was a point in the 1850's where the slight V in the front neckline was popular.

Although the heather dress above (I guess you'd call that heather. It's not gray. It's not lavender.) shows a lot more ruffles that are on this bodice, it does show the point in the front, the v-neckline, and the same slope in the shoulders. It's from 1856.

1840's Dress Redesigned later

From the seller:

A magnificent 1850-1860 printed changeable silk dress. The fabric is a taupe color with a strong undertone of dark blue. The fabric has a white, rust and navy blue stripe pattern. The bodice has short cap sleeves that are trimmed with navy blue silk. The dress also comes with a set of extra sleeves. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton sand has a front hook and eye closure. The bodice front has navy blue silk decorative buttons. The full skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating. The skirt is lined with cotton. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There are a couple of loose seams at the waist that will need minor re-stitching. There is some light underarm discoloration. There are no splits or holes in the fabric. There is a in inch L shaped tear on one the extra sleeves. A beautiful display dress. Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 40 Width at hemline 154.

From Me:

The slope of the shoulders, the very "long" look of the bodice both point to this being from the 1840's. The lower edge of the bodice was probably cut off in the 1860's and the dress redesigned during the American Civil war.

1860's (?) Undersleeves

From the seller:

Vintage probably 20s brown net dress sleeves. Has a silk cuff with snap closure. The tops have fanciful orange wool embroidered flower with cotton ecru squiggles. Also see our other great items, we gladly combine shipping. Buyer notifies in three days, pays shipping.

Very good vintage condition.

The wrist is 6 1/4" snapped closed, 16.5" long. The top part is 12" (gathered).


From Me:

I doubt these are from the 1920's. The shape looks like hundreds of other undersleeves I've seen for the 1860's. These were worn beneath the flared part of the sleeve and connected to the fitted upper part.

1860's Undersleeves & Matching Collar

From the seller:

An exquisite set of 1860’s cotton under sleeves and matching collar. The sleeves and collar are both embroidered with white flowers and vines. The under sleeves have a wide flounce style cuff. The collar is small and would fit the neckline of a dress. Both are in very good and study condition. There are no holes and just a couple of tiny age spots. Sleeve length 20 inches. The collar is 15 inches around the neckline.

From Me:

So you know that just less than a yard of lovely embroidered scalloped trim that is always left over after sewing a petticoat? Here's what to do with it.

Sleevils! from the 1890's and a half decade!

From the seller:

This is a pair of vintage Victorian era mourning black silk gigot leg of mutton sleeves. It is made of a black silk satin fabric with jet beaded trim. The gigot leg of mutton style sleeves have a large balloon puff top, narrow fitted cuffs & are fully lined. Great for Design, Study or Pattern.
Condition: Good Vintage Condition. Some Loose Beaded Trim & Seam Seperation on 1 Sleeve. Label: None

Measurements: Length 25" Arm Hole Opening 14" Cuff 6"


From Me:

Yes...sleevils are not a new phenomena. This evil amongst us costumers clearly affected our great great grandmothers as well. After all, why else would you leave the sleeves off the dress and bind them about the armscye? ;-)