Edwardian Half Mourning Dress

From the seller:

This Victorian 2pc Silk dress has a blouse that criss crosses , there's a cotton under bodice that hooks down the front, there's a few tears on the cotton on the front edges and missing hooks/eyes. There's bones in the seams, the bottom edge is unfinished, there's no hooks and eyes to hold the criss cross in place. There's a small fray on both sides just under the arms, probably from bones rubbing. It measures 36 inches around the bust, across the back shoulder is 12 1/4 inches, waist is 25 3/7 inches. The skirt is really lovely. It has a narrow waistband with hooks and eyes, It has arched seams on the sides going over the hips trimmed with narrow tucks, The bottom has arched points and there's a flounce attached to the lining that makes a full circle and has a tucked ruffle around the bottom. It's lined in silk taffeta as well. It measures 23 inches around the waist, hips full and  it's 38 inches long in front and 46 inches long in back, The skirt is excellent.

From Me:

Not Victorian but very Edwardian. I'm pretty sure this is half mourning based on the colors and the complete lack of any decoration aside from the pintucks.

1907 Fashion Plate

1907 Fashion Plate

1920's Black (Blue?) Crape Dress

From the seller:

This is so gorgeous! I bought this in a vintage clothing store in the mid-1980's and only wore it a couple times. It has been in storage in a climate-controlled, acid-free environment since about 1988. This is in pristine condition for its age. I believe it is silk. And I am pretty sure the belt buckle is celluloid, but it might be bakelite. Not sure. The quality of this is amazing - lots of hand stitching and just gorgeous. Classic 1920's dress - the real thing.

This is truly an incredible find! It has been very well preserved and cared for. It is approximately a size 6. I don't sew, and am hesitant to post measurements as I don't do those very well.

Please ask any questions before bidding. Remember that pictures are part of the description, and that with any vintage item, it is not brand new. Thank you.

Thanks for your questions. This is truly an incredible dress - it is so well made and there are a couple tiny tiny pinholes (about 3) when you hold it up to the light - pics added here. this is such a great example of a 1920's dress and in very good condition for its age. Measurements are:
Navy 20s drop waist
Some Pinholes
Shoulder-17 1/2
Bust- 42
Waist - 38
Hip- 38

From Me:

Although I'm sure it looks Navy Blue to our eyes today, I believe it was original black that simply faded over time. I've had items that I swore up and down were black until many washes and years later and they've become a very dark blue or very dark brown. It's pretty normal with the dark colors.

I'm also not sure if this one is silk - I really think this was a mourning dress. The Victorian rules for mourning were going away at this point but some of the upper classes still practiced them as well as being popular in more Catholic countries. A wool crape would make perfect sense for a mourning dress. There is already an excellent article up on mourning practices to include an excerpt from 1922's Vogue. The white trim would be acceptable a few weeks after the funeral.

Half Mourning (?) Late Edwardian Dress

From the seller:

This is an antique Victorian or Edwardian gray silk or silky material, can't say for sure, dress with embroidery and piping trim being offered as is because of a lot of damage. It has a lace neck insert and standup collar with wire stays. It closes at the back and waist with hooks and eyes. There is a panel on each side sewn down in the front and another down the back center that go about 2/3 the way down. The top and sleeves are lined. There is a nice embroidered design at the front center. I can't tell for sure if the embroidery and piping are gray or a light lavender as seen in the photos. The sleeves also have that nice piping design. The measurements are 17" flat across the shoulders, 18" flat under the arms, a 27" waist, 44" hips and is 50" long with an 80" hem circumference. The sleeves are 20" long with just under an 8" opening. Condition is as is with a lot of holes mostly on the skirt as shown, holes in the sleeves, some scattered on the top at the right back and a couple on the front right side just above the waist. Otherwise the top without the sleeves is pretty good. A great style of dress for study or perhaps just for the fabric. Please look at the pictures carefully with the mouse for conditions and details, note the measurements for fit and ask questions.

From Me:

The reason I think this is a half mourning dress is because, other than the embroidery, it's terribly plain, and the color of gray and lavender. The white lace insert could have been added later or just have been part of the less strict rules towards the end of the Edwardian era.

I'm also curious if it was overdyed as gray which would explain why the embroidery looked gray to the photographer but lavender in the photo.

1909 Fashion Photograph

1908 Fashion Plate

A rather big jump in fashion happened between 1908 and 1909. The skirt got thinner, the train on the skirt died completely, the sleeves got thinner - the overall look went from being voluminous to a column in just a few short months.

The sleeves on this extant dress look more like the sleeves on the 1908 fashion plate (just without the lace!) whereas the skirt looks more like the 1909 photograph but for daywear. So, a couple of possibilities:
1) this was an earlier styled dress that she redyed gray for mourning and re-designed the skirt but left the bodice and sleeves alone because of the embroidery.
2) It was fashion transition and she liked the fuller sleeves.

Either is completely possible - maybe even a bit of both.

1890's Mourning Morning Wrapper!!!!

From the seller:

Description:
Hand made wrapper or tea gown from the 1890s
Since it's black and rather plain, it could have been worn in the mourning period
Other uses could have been tea gown or at-home gown
The jacquard weave fabric is sheer...it feels like cotton
Leg-o-Mutton sleeves were popular in this era
Lace around the sleeve cuffs and collar
Two hooks and eyes are on the outside near the top
It has an under bodice attached on the inside with stays on each side seam
The under bodice has two hooks and eyes in the center front
Condition:

There are some broken stitches on the back bodice seam that can be mended
Otherwise, in very good, clean and wearable condition
Measurements:

These measurements are taken flat with a flexible measuring tape...You have to be smaller than the measurements to allow room for ease:

There is no size tag, fits a small to medium
Shoulder to shoulder: 13 inches
Sleeve length: 25 inches
Bust: 36 inches
Waist: 32 inches
Hip: full
Length center back: 51 inches
Remember, vintage is NOT new...This is previously worn and will show minor wear...I have inspected and mentioned any noticeable or detracting flaws, noting whether this garment is wearable or not...If not, it can still be appreciated and used for fabric, pattern or construction study...This is sold As Found...Repairing flaws, cleaning, spot removal and pressing is the responsibility of the buyer, as I don't want to damage the garment.

From Me:

Based on the sleeve shape, 1893. It looks like it's possibly a fine crepe but it's hard to tell. Very much a mourning gown.

Late 1860's Lilac Dress

From the seller:

A beautiful 1868 lilac silk wedding dress that was originally worn by Alice Little when she married William Hewitt Coates. The Hewitt family was from North Stonington, CT and the wedding took place in Michigan. The old note that came with the dress says that it was made in New York City. The bodice has Renaissance styled sleeves that are trimmed with white lace and white silk braiding. The inner part of the sleeve is lined with white satin. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front button closure. The one piece dress comes with a separate belt. The front of the belt is decorated with a rosette and the back has long streamers that are trimmed with white silk braiding. The dress has a long back train. The skirt is lined with cotton and buckram. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There are three missing buttons, light underarm discoloration and some light fading on the skirt. The fading is only noticeable in the bright light. There is some light age marks on the back hemline and a couple of tiny holes in the back of the skirt. A stunning dress that has great documentation. Bust 34 Waist 26 Front skirt length 41 Lack length 67 Width at hemline 160.

From Me:

1867 Fashion Plate

The hanging sleeves were more of a thing in the previous year but you still see them in 1868. The dress could have been part of a mourning wardrobe - many brides would wear lilac/lavender rather than white as a symbol they were still in mourning.



Text: wedding reception; persons in the deepest mourning are allowed to wear lavender, white or gray, on these occasions, even if they resume close black immediately afterwards.  - From The Art of Dressing Well: A Complete Guide to Economy, Style and Propriety
By Sarah Annie Frost, circa 1870

Although she is speaking of the wedding party, it was also common for the Bride to wear the colors of mourning.