Wednesday, August 26, 2015

For what it's Worth, late 1860's Ball Gown

From the seller:

1870's Charles Frederick Worth Severe Black Silk Ballgown Labeled: This gown was created in the 1870's and has a black woven label with Worth, 7 Rue De La Paix. Paris which was an early address for Worth and Bobergh. The name andaddress is gold. Normally gowns have a white label. This label is original to this bodice. It has the original old threads holding it in. The gown is a black silk skirt and bodice. Because the bodice tucks into the skirt which has a narrow band, I believe that there was an over skirt that is now missing. This gown came from a museum de-accession. This gown is very tiny. The waist of the skirt is 20 inches with a front length of 39.5. The bodice has a bust of 30, and a waist of 19.5. As you can see the ribcage was so tiny that it doesn't close on this very tiny Victorian dress form. The bodice originally was covered in black silk tulle. Most of it has disintegrated. The large bow on the left shoulder is handing by one thread and a pin. The skirt has a built in bustle cage. The skirt is in good condition with a few small holes and a tear right below the back opening. There is a seam on the lower right hand back side that has come open and needs to be repaired. It would be amazing to know what the overskirt looked like. I wonder if it was made with gathered silk tulle. Could this be a mourning dress for third stage mourning? Could the label be black instead of white because of it being a mourning dress? If anyone knows send us an email.

From Me:


I think it's missing the overapron/skirt piece that was probably made out of a similar net to the treatment on the bodice. However, it is from about 1869 based on the style of the bodice. Also, the skirt waist would go under the bodice line...

Black Brocade Edwardian Dress Outfit

From the seller:

Absolutely Beautiful Black Sheer 2 piece Victorian Dress. The skirt is in great shape, I only found 1 small flaw. The top has a couple worn tears and the beading and sequins need reattached in a couple spots. It needs a black underdress because it is very sheer. It has panels of material that are embroidered together and a pleated ruffle at bottom of skirt. This was in my Grandmother's Antique shop on display and was also used in a fashion show we did with Vintage Clothing. The top is 14 1/2" neck to waist, 13" across back, 24" waist & 22" long sleeves. The Skirt is 24" waist, 38" length is front and 40" length in the back.

From Me:

/headdesk Used in a fashion show? ....

Anyway, it's hard to tell exactly due to the way it's displayed. However, the clear pigeon front, the hemline detailing on the skirt, and the way the sleeves are shaped look more mid-Edwardian than anything else to me.

Black Edwardian Net Dress

From the seller:
1902 - 1904 Gibson Girl Black Net & Sequin Evening Gown: This gown was created during the Charles Gibson period. It is an evening or dinner gown of cotton netting and sequins. It has a silk taffeta liner. The bust is 32”, the waist is 24” and the shoulders are 13” on the bodice. The skirt has a waist of 24” and a front length of 41”. There are numerous holes scattered down the front. See photos. There are a few in the back. silk taffeta lining is still intact but there is wear at the waist band. The bodice is in good condition. It is totally lined and has bust pads to enhance the figure. The holes would not be noticed in museum lighting if you wanted to use it for display.

From Me:

De Gracieuse, 1908

The blue dress has very similar lines to the extant one. The fitted 3/4 sleeves, the "suspenders" look about the shoulders to the waistline, the height of the waist - all correspond to about 1908/1909.

Turn of the Century Black Lace Dress with Amazing Hem Detail

From the seller:

1880's Black Lace Bustle Gown: The dress is three pieces with a black silk slip, a overskirt of lace and the bodice. It is made of a cotton lace. The bodice has a bust of 29”, and a waist of 22”. The silk under skirt has a waist of 28” and a length of 37”. The lace skirt has a waist of 26” and a length of 35.5”. Both of the skirts appear to have been altered at one time to make them larger. The silk underskirt is intact, but does have splitting and holes in the pleated bottom ruffle. The lace overskirt is missing its hooks and eyes, and there are places where the lace needs mending. The worst hole is the one that is photographed. These don't show up because of the black silk underskirt. The bodice is in good condition but has no hooks and eyes on the over-lace. I think that it was just pinned into place at the neckline. It does have an old smell. It makes a lovely display as you can see. It would also be great for inspiration.

From Me:

1898/99, based on the sleeves and the slight pigeon front. I have no idea why this seller insists everything they have is a bustle. This isn't.  Most of us have enough junk in the trunk to wear this without any additional padding being necessary.

This dress at the Met has a similar sleeve shape.
The fashion plate above, from 1899, has a very similar hem treatment to the extant dress.

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Turn of the Century Brown Dress

From the seller:

1890's Silk Bustle Gown Daytime 2 pc. Ensemble: This 1890's bustle gown is made in a silk fabric that is somewhere between a deep burgundy and a rich chocolate brown. It has highlights of both colors. The skirt has a waist of 25”, and a length of 37”. The bodice has a bust of 30”, and a waist of 23”. The skirt has wear and repair to the waistband. The seam has come out 1.5 inches below the waistband and there is splitting in the front (see photo) and some splitting in the back of the skirt. The bodice has splits at the elbows and staining and heavy splitting under the arms. It is missing some of its inner buttons and there are some mismatched buttons on the front bodice. You cannot see them because of the over piece. There are some missing hooks and eyes. The left side collar of the over piece needs to be tacked back on and there is no hook and eye to hold the top of the piece in place. The gown is too fragile to wear, but could be used for display or inspiration. The bidding will start at $0.99 with no reserve.

From Me:

...There is no bustle on this. It curves over the backside - no extra padding needed on most individuals.

Anyway, it's about 1897 or so based on the sleeves and the front detailing.

Lacy White 1920's Dress

From the seller:

Unusual cut and layering on this romantic white silk chiffon and silk lace flapper dress dating to the 1920s. Lace cap sleeves with the same lace at dropped waist an in a draped layer in the skirting, layers of the chiffon in the skirt. In overall good vintage condition delicate but not dry with age/storage yellowing.

Measurements: 42" chest straight down to hips, 46" total length.

From Me:

Although the dropped neckline is nothing new, the way the skirt is cut is pretty unique. The bias cut with the curved addition is something that is seen in the late 1920's, however.


Past Patterns actually has a pattern for a late 1920's dress (1927) that has similar detailing in the top to the skirt of this dress.