1820's Stays dyed blue

 

From the seller:

Item specifics

Seller Notes

“Structurally sturdy with age-related foxing, 4 missing grommets at the bottom. The bottom 2 holes have torn through to the edge. Some wear to the right armhole and shoulder seam. Very suitable for study and display. Not wearable. Look at photos carefully.” 

Chest Size

28 inches

Occasion

GEORGIAN

Waist Size

19.75 inches

Decade

Pre 1890

Color

Blue

Material

Cotton

Size (Women's)

PS

Brand

Antique

Size Type

Petites

Original/Reproduction

Original

Style

Corset

Hip Size

28 inches

Look

Victorian

Country/Region of Manufacture

Unknown

Item description from the seller

This is a very charming 1820s corset. It is not boned, just made of sturdy cotton twill in white and blue creating this beautiful, soft denim-blue. Denim was produced for centuries before "jeans" as we know them began to be produced in the mid-nineteenth century. I won't call this fabric denim BUT it IS a cotton twill in this beautiful blue. Maybe it is an early version. Lined in robust cotton with a tabby weave (canvas?), The corset is wonderfully hand-sewn. The interior side-seams are amazingly beautiful. It is pieced, indicating a resourceful maker. I count 12 pieces of the blue fabric alone. Look closely at the upper back photos to see the piecing. There are 16 bone grommets. The last two photos show the corset laced up- Don't mock my technique. I worked with what I had. The lacing I used is not included.

*Condition: Structurally sturdy with age-related foxing, 4 missing grommets at the bottom. The bottom 2 holes have torn through to the edge. Some wear to the right armhole and shoulder seam. Very suitable for study and display. Not wearable. Look at photos carefully.

* Measurements are provided for display only.  28" chest, 19.75" waist, 28" hip. These are approximate.

*Please ask all questions before bidding- Thank you!

From Me:

1820s stays are pretty distinctive in themselves.  Metal grommets weren't invented until 1828 so bone grommets make perfect sense.  The dye is likely indigo as it was the cash crop at the time.  

1830's Riding Habit Waistcoat (?)

From the seller:



picture
Victorian Women's French Toile Blue Print Linen Double Breasted Waistcoat Vest

1860-1960 One hundred years of fashion & accessories
Picture

This antique Victorian era women's French toile blue print linen double breasted waistcoat vest dates from the late 19th century. It is made of an off white, blue French Toile de Jouy floral botanical print linen fabric, with a grayish blue trim edging. There is an off white cotton linen fabric backing and inside lining. This wonderful women's waistcoat vest has a late 18th century gentlemens French waistcoat style which is longer in the front with peplum skirted panels, faux pockets, a fitted waist, fold over collar and is double breasted with matching fabric covered buttons for closure on the front. The vest measures 25 inches long in the front, 15 inches long in the back, with a 36 inch bust and 24 inch waist. It is in good as-is condition, with a few faint small stains, some fraying along the blue trim edging and a small frayed hole on the bottom front panel (see close-ups). This is truly a rare and unique piece of womens wearable antique Victoriana!



From Me:
UGH! Ignoring the "wearable" part for now - this isn't even Victorian. Oh yes, at first blush, it looks like it could be 1870's but look at the way the shoulders are cut. Look at how high the waistline is in the back. Also check out the close up of the fraying - the twill is handstitched on!

Then there is the fabric itself...that's what the big clue was. Yes, fabric is often reused but look:

1825 Fabric from the Winterthur Museum

1830s print from the Spencer Museum of Art via Barbara Brackman's Blog

1825-1830 via Utah Quilt Appraiser

Okay, so the fabric is from the 1820s/1830s but we see fabric reused all the time. Going back to the cut, I looked up riding habits of the time and was not disappointed.

The above 1830's Riding habit hints at the waistcoat underneath but I wanted to see if there was one that showed a similar waistcoat.

1836/7 fashion plate from the V&A

Although the back of the blue riding habit has the same lines as the back of the waistcoat, there aren't any easily visible waistcoats on the ladies. However, all the men do have the double breasted style very similar to this extant one.

There aren't any fashion plates from the 1830's that show a riding habit with a waistcoat (the funny thing is that you see them in both the 1820's and the 1840's) but the cut, particularly at the shoulders, is so very 1830's, that the latest I'd put this is about 1842.

Swiss Folk Costume Bodice 1830s (?)

From the seller:

Extremely rare 18th. Century Stay Corset European probably France. it's made out of silk, cotton, wood or whale bone baleen. it's still in a very good condition considering its gage, at the edge there is a small piece broken or missing from the baleen however hardly noticeable.
The beading embroidery with very tiny black beads all over makes this a very unique piece, the beading could be have added later, I am not sure about that, the piece itself has been confirmed from the 18th Century.
There are only a few offered on the market. it's a treasure for the real collector.

From Me:

I can easily see why the seller thought this was 18th C - parts of it might be. The fabric does look a bit older than the ribbon and the decorations on it. It does have some aspects that are similar to this pair of stays from the 1790s. However, it's actually a part of a Swiss folk costume.

19th Century Swiss Folk Dress

The silver lacing holes in the image were an addition in the late 1860s. The style of the Swiss Folk costume became fashion in the 1860s and made famous by Empress Sissi.

The style of this one suggests it's a bit earlier than the 1860s. It has hand bound lacing holes, the style of the stays themselves are very similar to the late 18th stays, and the ribbon style is late Regency/early Romantic Era in design.  My guess is about 1830s but it's hard to tell with the folk costumes.

18(1)9? Ribbons

Anne of Green Gables would love this dress

From the seller:

Treat yourself 

to this astonishing *rare* plum silk dress  c. 1890-1900 

...love the blue chiffon collar & 'cuffs'...with tiny white roses 

Due to it's vibrant colors & whimsical feel, it might have been for an adolescent girl 

In overall * good * condition

Plum silk fabric is strong...the lining of the skirt IS shredding [ pic 10, 11]
There are scattered stains [ most prominent R. side front skirt [ pic 7 ]
A few pinholes...some fading of the midnight blue trim, R. sleeve only [ pic 8 ] 
some underarm discoloration [ doesn't show when on ]

I have never seen a dress like it **  worth the TLC !

Measurements [ lying flat ] 

underarm-underarm: 17"  waist: 14"   length: 43" 

Enjoy !  

From Me:

The bust is 34" with a 28" waist - not bad! Given the overall length, I agree that this was for a teenager and not a grown woman. I absolutely adore the colors. As for the decade, it's interesting. The dress looks like it was remade from a much older style. If you look at the inside upper collar, you can see the hand stitching pretty easily. The sleeve style, once you take away the blue lace, is dead on for the 1830's. The waist seems more 1830's too. It's the addition of the lace and a few other changes that make it more late 1890's. I can see a young girl taking her grandma's dress and remaking it for a party - think Anne of Green Gables taking one of Marilla and Matthew's Mom's dresses to remake with "puff" sleeves using left over lace from one of Diana's dresses.

I'm thinking something more like this originally but with a higher neckline (like this one that someone in the 1890's added lace to and called it a day.

And yes, I'm back from Pennsic. ...However, I'm moving! So, until the end of the year, things will be...hectic to say the least!

What big elbows you have, Grandma! 1830's Silk Dress

From the seller:

RARE c1835 - 1840's LADY'S GREY SILK GOWN ALL HAND STITCHED MUSEUM DE-ACCESSIONED

A most becoming and charming rare American 1830 - 1840 grey silk hand stitched one piece gown with matching cape FOR STUDY. Recently de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical society in New York State, and still retaining its original identification museum tags.
The dress has a back hook and loop closure with long gigot sleeves and the waistline has cartilage pleating in back only and the front is decorated with pleating.
 The bodice is lined with polished cotton and the skirt is unlined.  Piping around drop armscyes, travelling across back  to waist line. Piping around waist line.
Bodice has 5 whale bone baleen stays.
The gown is in very good and sturdy condition.
There is underarm discoloration, and scattered staining, on bodice as well as skirt.
Two back closure hooks missing. There has been a seam opened up around waist line, probably a pleat, and easy fix.  There are two tucks to bring in the opening of the neckline, can easily be released.

None of the flaws are major and do not distract from the overall appearance of the gown. A rare and highly collectible early garment.
MEASUREMENTS
Bust 32"
Waist 26"
Length of sleeves 19"
Length of dress from shoulder seam to hemline in back 56".
A very attractive early 19th century gown.

Antique clothing is for display and should not be worn.

From Me:

There is no explaining the 1830's. There just isn't. It's the reason that the 1840's styles are so somber....