Sunday, November 29, 2015

Post American Civil War Era Ball Gown







From the seller:

An enchanting 1860’s beige and mauve plaid silk ball gown dress that has been de-accessioned from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection. The bodice has short puffed sleeves that are trimmed with black lace and mauve velvet buttons. The neckline and armscyes are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a back hook and eye closure. The skirt is fully lined with cotton. The dress is in good condition. There are some small pencil tip to slightly larger scattered holes, mostly to the sleeves. There is a 4 inch repair by the back skirt opening area and a small L shaped split on one shoulder. There are areas of light underarm discoloration. A very fetching display dress. Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 41 width at hemline 144.

From Me:

First, the original photo from the Met website:


And the info the museum had: Dress Date: ca. 1860 Culture: American Medium: silk, cotton Dimensions: [no dimensions available] Credit Line: Gift of Miss Emma Hunt, 1937 Accession Number: C.I.37.28.4

Now the fashion plates:

1866 Fashion Plate1866 Fashion Plate

Gathered bodice fronts on ballgowns were a thing in 1866. Also, given the way the skirt pleating is done and the shortness of the waistline, I'm pretty sure this is from after the Civil War.

1850's Gown Remade in the 1860's


From the seller:

This auction is for an original Young Lady's ball gown from the Pre Civil War period. It could possibly be as early as 1840s, but it's 2 piece with a straight waist, making me think it's more early 1850s up to as late as 1856, before hoops became general. It is made of gray silk with a woven stripe of bright purple. The bodice has a center back closure of hooks and eyes and narrow sleeves trimmed out in gray fringe. It's lining is heavy brown cotton twill. The bodice and skirt both appear to be all hand-sewn. The skirt has gorgeous cartridge pleating all around and narrow wool hem tape. There's a pocket in the side seam. It's fully lined in brown polished cotton. The dress has incredibly narrow shoulders.

Condition: Scattered small holes and some overall light discoloration, most significantly at the under arms. However, my photos make it appear more pronounced that it looks in person. There is wear to the hem and waistband with modern hooks/eyes on the waistband. Please look closely at the photos.

Measurements are: The bust measures 31 inches, The waist measures 24 inches. The length of the skirt is 40 inches.


From Me:

1850's fashion

Although the overall shape stayed early 1850's (off shoulder straps, short little sleeves with ridiculous fringe, the pleated all the way around evenly skirt), the bodice point got chopped off probably during the Civil War.

1840's Striped Sleeves




From the seller:




DATING TO THE 1840’S

FASHIONED OF COTTON WITH A STRIPING, LINED IN A SOLID COTTON

FULLY HAND SEWN

THESE WOULD HAVE BEEN ATTACHED TO A GOWN, REMOVEABLE TO MAKE ITHE GOWN SHORT SLEEVE





MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:

LENGTH: 14 1/2


From Me:

I swore up and down that I had posted these years ago along with the original fan front bodice. I looked and couldn't find it though. Given the length, they were meant to go under those short sleeves we see all the time in 1840's fashion plates.

1843 Fashion Plate

Cotton was then as cotton is today - your everyday wear. You would no more wear a ballgown of cotton then then you would today - unless it's blended with silk! Short sleeves were still accepted during the summers in the 1840's. That didn't go away until the next decade and then it takes a good lifetime to get short sleeves back!

Saturday, November 28, 2015

Young Lady's Blue Bustle Dress


From the seller:

DATING TO THE VICTORIAN 19TH C

LATE 1860’S WITH SOME SMALL MODIFICATIONS DONE SLIGHTLY LATER

FASHIONED OF A BLUE SILK TAFFETA, TWO PIECE IN CONSTRUCTION

PIPED IN BLACK SILK VELVET

THE BODICE HAS PIPED SEAMS ON THE SLEEVES, THE REAR IN A SLIT BUSTLE TAIL

ORIGINALLY CLOSED WITH BUTTONS BT A PANEL WAS ADDED WITH HOOKS TO INCREASE THE SIZE AS PICTURED

SKIRT IS IN TIERS OF RUFFLES WITH VELVETR PIPING

STRONG AND WEARABLE, COULD BE REFASHIONED BACK TO THE ORIGINAL FORM IF SO DESIRED, NO WEAR OR STAINING, IN EXCELLENT ANTIQUE CONDITION





MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:
BODICE:
CHEST: 30
WAIST: 26
LENGTH: 26
SKIRT:
WAIST: 26
LENGTH: 34


From Me:

Based on the measurements - 30" Bust and a length of 34", this is very much for a pre teen or teenage girl.

1872 Fashion Plate

Friday, November 27, 2015

1930's Peach Dress


From the seller:

Item Details: Vintage 1930's peach pink taffeta nightgown. Short layered puffed sleeves. Pintuck and button detail at front. Closes at back with buttons and hook/eyes. Attached tie at waist.
Unmarked Fabric Content: There is no fabric content label, but this dress feels like it is crafted of rayon or acetate.
Unmarked Size: There is no size label, but this dress appears to fit like a current Women's "XS / S". Please refer to measurements to ensure a proper fit.
APPROXIMATE Measurements: Measurements are provided as a courtesy. All of our measurements are taken on the outside of the garment while it is lying flat. Since everyone measures differently, all of our measurements vary and we offer only approximations. If you are in need of a specific measurement be sure to contact us BEFORE purchasing the item as we do not accept returns based on fit.
Shoulder: 13.5" (seam to seam)
Sleeve: 10" (shoulder seam to cuff)
Chest: 17" (x2) (armpit to armpit)
Waist: 14" (x2) (narrowest point)
Hips: 18" (x2) (measured 6" below waist)
Total Length: 58.5" (measured on back, shoulder seam to hem)


From Me:

Of the many things this is, it's not a nightgown. How would you even wear something with stiff fabric like that to bed? Ouch!

1937 Sears Catalog

1937 give or take a year.

1840's Yellow Silk Dress out of 18th Century Silk














From the seller:

Circa 1840, a silk polychrome ensemble .The silk brocade fashioned from a open gown Circa 1780.The design of floral polychrome stripes are quite lovely. Part of a museum deaccession from the Metropolitan museum in New York.The skirt is quite voluminous..so there is quite alot of fabric.There is a opening down the front ,part of design .In very good condition,some inner staining on inner bodice lining and soem dirt marks on edge of skirt..The skirt measures 36” around waist, the fabric is quite ruched so measures more, length is apprx. is 43-44’with hem. The circumference at bottom is apprx. 139”.Pictures do not show the great volume of skirt.

From Me:

Here's the original photo that was up on the Met's website:



The outfit bothered me a lot. The insides just don't look 1840's at all. The curved seams, the binding, the sloppy way it's done - it looks like someone made this for a party in the 20th Century despite the hand stitching. However, since it was clearly in the Met collection as an 1840's dress, I'm keeping it in that category for now.