Sunday, June 29, 2014
From the seller:
1900 French Couture Mademoiselle Corne' Paris 2 pc. Dress: This was a fabulous ensemble in its day. It is made of a taupe colored cashmere and lace that was created in a drawn work style. It is the perfect look for a Gibson girl with its pigeon breast style and its sweeping and graceful skirt. The label is: Mademoiselle Corne' Lingerie & Robes, 42 Rue des Jeuneurs. Paris. The garment is excessively damaged. The hem is out in front and part of the back. All the way around the hem is very soiled from wear. I have part of the rows of lace in the front pinned up. There are many places that need repair. There is a mass of moth holes. See photos. The inside lining of the bodice is much damaged. See photos. The silk ribbon belt is almost entirely shattered. The lace on the bodice is very heavily soiled. This dress is not wearable. Most of the lining in the sleeves are shattered and there is no lining left in the skirt. The skirt waist is 26, and the length is 39.5. The bust of the bodice is 34 and the waist is 24. This was high fashion in its day. It could be used for inspiration or design or even it would be nice to own a real couture piece.
Probably about 1903 or so.
From the seller:
1870's Brown & Golden Promenade Ensemble Dress: This dress was created in the early 1870's. It is made in two pieces. The skirt and the bodice. The skirt has a waist of 28, length of 40, and it is 148 inches around the bottom. The bodice has a bust of 34 and a waist of 25. This dress has seen better days. It is in very rough condition. The threads are starting to give way because of the age. The silk around the waist band of the skirt is very damaged. See photos. I pinned it to the form while I was photographing it. The lining of the skirt is shattering and brittle around the top of the inside, but it is not so bad on the rest of the lining. The bodice has some of the buttons missing, and some of the buttons that are still there are missing their silk covers. As you can see in the photos the silk of the sleeves is very damaged. This would never be wearable. The inside lining of the bodice is in good shape. See photos. The lining of the sleeves is very damaged, and missing in some places. With extensive conservation you might be able to display it with a shawl draped over the shoulders to hide the sleeve damage. It would be great for inspiration or pattern making. Much of the fabric is still soft and supple and could be used for French fashion doll clothing. There are some bows or decorations of some sort missing off the back of the bodice. The silk fringe is wonderful.
....why on God's green Earth would you even *consider* taking this apart for doll clothing?!?
Anyway, this is over an incorrect hoop for the era. Probably about 1874 or so.
Saturday, June 28, 2014
From the seller:
#1065, 1810's Silk Figured Ballgown - American Family: This gown I purchased from the fifth generation owner. There was no one else to pass it down to at that time. It is a very tiny size. It is in fragile condition. The skirt has some worn places and some splits. The top of the bodice and the top of the sleeves are heavily damaged with numerous repairs. The bust is 30, and the waist is 22. I could not close the front on this dress form. When I have exhibited it I have used a period lace shawl to drape the bodice. In the lining it has its original mother of pearl buttons and original eyes. The hooks were replaced in 1876. I bought this gown over 20 years ago in a little town on the other side of Denver Colorado. I followed a lead that a local dealer gave me when I asked for antique clothing. When I was young I wasn't careful with keeping all the info. I had written or been given. At that time provenance was not so important to me. I no longer remember the name of the family. This is the story that I was told by the great great granddaughter who was in her 70's or 80's in the early 1990's. This dress was worn at a ball here in America in the early 1800's. It was handmade from ivory figured silk. It was passed down through the generations. In 1876 the gown was taken out of its trunk and the skirt was relined with brown polished cotton at that time, and the bodice was reinforced. The granddaughter of the original owner wore the dress on the Fourth of July for America's Centennial celebration. The brown polished cotton (See photos) was sewn in and the entire skirt was taken apart and lined with it, and sewn back together with machine sewing. This makes a huge difference to many collectors and some museums because the dress has been compromised. The design wasn't changed at all, but the lining was. It goes without saying that it is still a lovely dress. It probably lasted a little longer because of this lining. The lining in the skirt is good, but they relined the sleeves as well and that lining is beginning to shatter. All of the tucks on the sleeves and the bodice are all hand sewn. It is an amazing part of American History.
There is just too much that screams late 1890's to me. Yes, sleeves in the 1820's got ridiculous as well - however, the sleeves of the 1820's go out whereas the sleeves of the 1890's go up. The difference is in the patterning - the sleeves of the 1820's have pretty normal "curves" when it comes to the difference between the underarm and the top of the shoulder. It's the width of the sleeve that gives the "puffiness" in the 1820's. In the 1890's, the curve (Armscye) is highly exaggerated. Sometimes, there is additional width given to the sleeve as well but the excessive difference between the underarm and the top of the shoulder is what gives the puffiness of the 1890's. This is what causes the 1820's (and early 1830's) to go "out" while the 1890's go "up".
These sleeves want to go up.
The cut of the back is also a indication it's late 1890's. Take a look at this robe from 1896 that is part of the MET's collection:
Notice how the back of the extant Tea Dress and the Robe of the MET's collection both have v-neck back but also come up in an inverted v at the waistline? This was common in the late 1890's. You see it on several robes and tea gowns of this age. In fact, here are some more examples:
Tea Gown 1898 Fashion Plate
Another example of the inverted V back from 1902
A somewhat faux inverted V back from 1900 They used ribbon to fake the inverted V look.
One of my favorite Liberty Dresses from the 1890's also have the inverted V back.
The insides as well point to a much later date. The way the seams are folded over are very late 19th/early 20th century. Although the seller acknowledges that the brown cotton was added later, I think it was actually added at the time the dress was made - late 1890's.
Even the pintuck sleeves suggest the late 1890's. Although the fabric could be older - the style and type is fairly generic- I really wouldn't put this dress before 1898.
Thursday, June 26, 2014
From the seller:
FROM THE HEIGHT OF THE EDWARDIAN ERA
THIS ALONG WITH THE OTHER EDWARDIAN DRESSES ACQUIRED FROM A PRIVATE ESTATE
FASHIONED OF A WONDERFUL COLORED LINEN WITH LACE INSERTS RUNNING THROUGHOUT
WONDERFUL CUTWORK DETAIL ABOVE THE FRONT BUST
FINELY EMBROIDERED BY HAND WITH FLORAL DETAILS
CUT WITH A FULLNESS AT EACH SIDE WITH SKIRTING OPENING INTO A FULL BELL SHAPE
CLOSES IN THE REAR WITH FRENCH KNOT BUTTONS
ESTATE FRESH AND I HAVE NOT CLEANED THIS PIECE, THERE IS SOME BROWN AGE COLOR AS SEEN WITH SOME STAINING SEEN UNDER THE ARM.
HARD ENOUGH TO FIND THESE IN WHITE, RARE TO FIND THESE IN EASTER EGG COLORS
MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:
Based on the neckline and sleeve length, I'm thinking 1909.
From the seller:
An elegant 1870’s taupe silk bustle back bodice. The bodice is trimmed with wide bands of gold satin. The bodice is also decorated with pleated ruffles along the front opening, sleeve cuffs and hemline. The sleeve cuffs are trimmed with a gold satin bow. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front button closure. The buttons are covered with gold satin. The bodice is in very good condition. There are no splits or holes in the fabrics. There is some very light underarm discoloration on the inside lining only. Bust 32 Waist 24.
What the seller said. :-)