Monday, May 29, 2017

Early 20th Century Pink Petticoat










From the seller:

This is a darling pink cotton Edwardian petticoat. Insert lace is set in criss-crossing, diagonal designs, framing graceful, hand embroidered panels. The edges are shaped, also trimmed with lace edging.
There is a ruffle underneath the flounce, with fabric covered buttons all the way around at the top, right underneath what I always thought was a horizontal slot for a ribbon to be threaded through. You can see these in the 3rd pic.
Not sure what would have been attached here, perhaps something that was supposed to be threaded through the slots and held on with the button.
Anyway, it's 26 1/2" at the waist, 32" long.
In good condition. The button is missing in back, there are a couple of brownish spots, a 1/4" L-shaped tear, you should be able to see this in the pic. There is also a tear to the placket that holds the hook and eye, not visible, of course, when the petticoat is buttoned.
There is a 3 1/2" seam separation to the plain section, near the top of the waist. There are a couple of 1" seam separations where the lace is pulling away from the fabric. There is one 3" tear to the fabric, two other, 1/2" holes next to it, along the bottom edge right above the lace ruffle. There are two other half inch stressed areas to the fabric near the hem, a 2" area where there is some lace missing, also along the edge. There is a line of fading to the pink where it looks as if a tuck was taken down.
International bidders please be aware that any VAT, delivery, or customs charges are not part of the item price of my own shipping charges. Please contact your local post or customs office if you have about these charges.


From Me:

This could be either Edwardian or Teen's era. The neat thing about this is it appears that the buttons might have been used to hold a dress in place. Layers were all the rage in the late Edwardian/early teens with the ruffles of the petticoat peaking out beneath the dresses.
1913 Fashion Plate

Although the above are evening gowns, the day dresses weren't that dissimilar in the idea of shorter overdresses with an underskirt peaking out. The buttons could keep the shorter overdress in place without it riding it up.

Edwardian Half Mourning Dress












From the seller:

This Victorian 2pc Silk dress has a blouse that criss crosses , there's a cotton under bodice that hooks down the front, there's a few tears on the cotton on the front edges and missing hooks/eyes. There's bones in the seams, the bottom edge is unfinished, there's no hooks and eyes to hold the criss cross in place. There's a small fray on both sides just under the arms, probably from bones rubbing. It measures 36 inches around the bust, across the back shoulder is 12 1/4 inches, waist is 25 3/7 inches. The skirt is really lovely. It has a narrow waistband with hooks and eyes, It has arched seams on the sides going over the hips trimmed with narrow tucks, The bottom has arched points and there's a flounce attached to the lining that makes a full circle and has a tucked ruffle around the bottom. It's lined in silk taffeta as well. It measures 23 inches around the waist, hips full and  it's 38 inches long in front and 46 inches long in back, The skirt is excellent.

From Me:

Not Victorian but very Edwardian. I'm pretty sure this is half mourning based on the colors and the complete lack of any decoration aside from the pintucks.

1907 Fashion Plate

1907 Fashion Plate

Saturday, May 27, 2017

Late Victorian Yellow and Black Bodice with Star of David (?) Buttons


From the seller:

Vintage Victorian Edwardian Bodice ORNATE Fancy VGC XS Lace  DETAILS

Yellow satin trim with black lace to front bodice and lapel/collar piece; yellow satin with ruffles to cuffs
pleated bib with black lace bow/boning, standing collar
3 goldtone steel cut buttons
Bust 32"
Shoulder width 12"
Sleeves 24"
Length 15"
  Waist 22"


From Me:

I'm very curious if the Star of David was intentional or if it was just a design element. It would be very cool if it was intentional rather than just a pretty design. I don't think there is really a way to find out without any idea of the provenance of the item.

1899 Fashion Plate

Looking at the sleeves of the extant bodice, there appears to be a slight amount of "puff" to the sleeves still - popular in the Turn of the Century. My guess is about 1899 or so.

Liberty of London Embroidered Purple Dress













From the seller:

A rare Liberty & Co aesthetic afternoon dress, ca. 1908. Woven yellow on white silk label “Liberty & Co, London & Paris”. Made of aubergine coloured velvet. Embroidered with Japanese inspired raised-work roses in shades of mauve and grey. Long velvet and lace sleeves. Entredeux lace in the chest area. High collar. Trained Skirt. Good to very good condition. Inner white silk bodice lining is generally good condition, but white gauze has been later added to the upper and closure edges for extra strength and protection. The skirt waist has been let out and near matching modern fabric has been added at the side closure. More velvet has been added below the waistline to enlarge the hips. The decoration is not included.
The London store Liberty & Co was founded by Arthur Lasenby Liberty (1843-1917) in 1875. The shop specialized in selling ornaments, fabric and objects from Japan and the Far East. The Liberty department store was crucial in introducing and popularising Japanese arts and crafts in the West and was an enormous influence on British artists and designers. The company became synonymous with this new style, at the end of the 19th century, to the extent that in Italy, Art Nouveau became known as Stile Liberty after the London shop.
Arthur Lasenby Liberty was born in Chesham, Buckinghamshire in 1843. He was employed at Messrs Farmer and Rogers in Regent Street in 1862, the year of the International Exhibition at Kensington in London. By 1874, inspired by his 10 years of service, Arthur then decided to start a business of his own, believing that he could change the look of home wares and fashion.
With a £2000 loan from his future father-in-law, Arthur Liberty took on the lease of half a shop at 218a Regent Street with only three staff. Within eighteen months he had repaid the loan and acquired the second half of 218 Regent Street. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic, and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement.
In the 1890s Arthur Lasenby Liberty built strong relationships with many leading English designers and studios such as Arthur Silver and the ‘Silver Studio’ Many of these designers were key figures in the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements and Arthur Liberty was instrumental in the development of British Art Nouveau through his encouragement of such designers. The store became one of the most prestigious in London.
Waist: ~ 66 cm
Bust: ~ 85 cm
Front Length: ~ 135 cm
Back Length: ~ 175 cm


From Me:

This one confused me until I realize that this is a lot more than the crazy modern fabric added to the backside.
Liveauctioneers

Someone "redesigned" it to fit them using both antique and modern pieces - probably to wear it as a costume. /facepalm

So, they ruined not only the colors, but they cut up a LIBERTY gown and put in a mismatch of bum fabric that makes no sense and added lacy sleeves and a blouse top because they were #terriblepeople! Yes, let's desecrate all the old things and change them to what we want now, now, now, because...me! Yeah, I'm not a fan of this whole "me" culture. I look to these little things called consequences and the consequences of tearing a part an antique gown like this is that you've now caused it to disintegrate more quickly, caused the colors to fade a great deal, and now, it's worth not even a fraction of what it was worth. Thanks ever so much. /s

The original way this was designed, the Liberty gown was probably closure to the liveauctioneers date of 1910. The kimono sleeves were very popular starting in the late Edwardian, early Teen's era.


Late Edwardian Coat


From the seller:

Couture quality Belle Epoque late 19thc silk and velvet beaded and spangled long coat. Decorated bolero across the top of coat that is beaded in bow designs with sparkling metal spangles and paste metal buttons. The silk taffeta in the body of coat alternates with silk velvet strips. High lace trimmed neckline, closes in front with hook and eye, knife pleat chiffon on interior edge, lined in cream colored satin, bell shaped sleeves . No labels but probaly a  French couture item. In very good antique condition but no perfect. With wear and breaks to lining at back of neck and armholes, missing spangles at top of coat, otherwise very good.   Chest 34", length 49", sleeves 23", shoulder to shoulder at the back is 14".

From Me:
1906 Fashion Plate
1908 Liberty of London Fashion Plate


I believe the coat is about the same time as these two or even a little later. The lines of the extant coat are almost to the "teens" era style with the more fitted waist but this one still has the high neck which was more fashionable still in the Edwardian era. So, most likely, it's a transition piece.