Sunday, May 29, 2016

Late 1860's Dress remade later in the Edwardian Era












From the seller:

c.1870's SILK TAFFETA PLAID LADIES GOWN WITH PAGODA SLEEVES FOR STUDY OR DISPLAY

Offering an exceptional late 1870's lady's gown plaid silk taffeta 2 piece gown, machine sewn and hand sewn.

A fetching 1870’s era brown, black, cream and dark tan plaid silk 2 piece gown. The bodice is piped at armscyes at drop shoulder. The bodice is lined with brown cotton and the skirt is lined with a polish brown cotton. Bodice has original front hook and loop closures sewn in inner material closure, as well as front closure using fabric covered buttons. The long slender fitted arms are flared with pagoda sleeves. The inside bodice has no stays and back is embellished with a peplum. The skirt is embellished with three rows of black velvet trim at hem line.

CONDITION: The gown is in good for study condition. There is underarm discoloration stains on inside lining only and no damage in the fabric on both armscyes. Brown silk trim are complete and not missing, some need to be reattached.

The skirt is in very fair/good condition. Would look fuller with a large hoop.
The fabric is rich and supple. Wear top edges of bottom hem as well as scattered holes and splits in skirt as shown in photos. Some splitting of fabric on waist band of skirt.

MEASUREMENTS:

BODICE: Bust 30", Waist 23", Sleeve length 17-1/2", Length from shoulder to front hem 57-1/2", Shoulders across back 14", Neck to bottom of bodice 20"

SKIRT: Waist 35", Length of skirt 41", Circumference 131".

In good, presentable condition and a great display gown for study or display. A beautiful display only 2 piece gown.

A superb hard to come by dress of 140+ years of graceful life.

This is a wonderful piece to add to an early collection.


From Me:

The entire problem with this dress is that it doesn't match. Why is the bodice edged in brown silk ribbon and the skirt has three rows of black velvet? Why is there no brown silk on the skirt and now black velvet on the bodice? Why does the skirt look like it doesn't have a bustle when the bodice clearly does?

I believe it's because someone took the material from the original matching skirt and remade it at a later date - most likely Edwardian or a bit later based on the trim placement and the cut of the skirt. The bodice would be impossible to rework at that point to the current styles and rather pointless as well - just wear a shirtwaist with a black velvet sash around the waist and it would look fine.

1869 Fashion Plate

As you can tell in the fashion plate, there would have been a LOT more material in the skirt than we see here. However, the bodice looks right for about this era. The skirt as is though, looks more like this below:

1908 Fashion Plate


See the lady with the jacket on the left? Notice that she has a couple of tiers of black velvet around the hem of her skirt. The widths are also similar as are the pleats. Someone probably just took Mom's old dress and remade it almost exactly 40 years later. See? Vintage is nothing new.

Mid 19th Century Wrapper








From the seller:

A charming 1860’s floral printed cotton antique robe that has been de-accessioned from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The fabric has a floral pattern in shades or red, mauve and blue on a cream colored back ground. The robe is decorated with red, tan and teal blue geometric trim. It has pagoda styled sleeves and two side pockets. The armscyes are piped. It has a front button and loop closure. The robe is lined with cotton. It is in very good and sturdy condition. There are several missing buttons and some age discoloration. (See photos.). Loose fitting bust 40 Length from shoulder to hem 55.

From Me:

It's probably a bit earlier - 1850's. Here are some other dressing robes or wrappers that have similar cuts:

The original image from the Met
This is what the Met had up on this wrapper:

Wrapper Date: 1840–60 Culture: American Medium: cotton Dimensions: Length at CB: 60 in. (152.4 cm) Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. D. Chester Noyes, 1950

So, since the Met agrees with me rather than the seller, I'm putting this in the 1850's.

Early 1890's Tea Gown













From the seller:

WONDERFUL, 1890'S ANTIQUE MOTHER HUBBARD BASQUE BODICE BUSTLE DRESS IN A FLORAL PRINTED LINEN

DESIGNED WITH A LOVELY DOUBLE PLEATED TIGHT COLLAR, HIGH PUFFED SLEEVES, LOOSE PLEATS DOWN THE FRONT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE OPENING AND AN ADORABLE TIGHTLY GATHERED, TOP-SEWN, FULL BUSTLE BACK. THIS BELTED DRESS IS A TAN, CREAM AND BROWN FLORAL AND STRIPE PRINT ON FINE LINEN FABRIC. THE BASQUE BODICE IS HIDDEN INSIDE AND BUTTONS DOWN THE FRONT WITH ALL ORIGINAL OPALESCENT BUTTONS PRESENT. THE INSIDE BODICE HAS A DARTED FRONT AND PRINCESS SEAMS IN THE BACK. THE WIDE INSIDE SEAMS ARE HAND BOUND TOGETHER AND ONE POCKET IS HIDDEN IN THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SKIRT. I SUSPECT THE GROSGRAIN AND SATIN BROWN BELT WAS ADDED LATER BECAUSE IT IS SEWN ON TOP OF THE OUTSIDE OF THE DRESS INSTEAD OF SANDWICHED INSIDE BETWEEN THE SIDE SEAMS.

THE CONDITION IS VERY, VERY NICE ANTIQUE. THERE ARE NO HOLES, CUTS, PULLS, SNAGS, TEARS OR FABRIC FLAWS IN THE WEAVE. THE SEAMS AND FABRIC ARE STRONG. THERE ARE NUMEROUS AGE SPOTS THROUGHOUT. I HAVE NOT CLEANED, STEAMED, REPAIRED OR PRESSED THIS DRESS.

56 INCH LENGTH IN FRONT

33 INCH BUST

24 INCH SLEEVES (I MEASURED UP AND AROUND THE PUFF)
ALL MEASUREMENTS WERE TAKEN WITH THE DRESS LYING FLAT AND THE BODICE BUTTONED

THIS MOTHER HUBBARD DRESS WAS TREASURED AND STORED IN A DRY TRUNK IN A CLIMATE CONTROLLED HOUSE FOR THREE GENERATIONS.

THIS EARLY 1890'S MOTHER HUBBARD DRESS IS A RARE FIND.


From Me:


It's not a Mother Hubbard - the interior fittings indicate that pretty straight away. Rather, it's a tea gown. It doesn't look like it's a bustle naturally - rather, it looks like it's meant to have a bit of a train.


1891 Tea Gwns

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Lovely Edwardian Overskirt with Lace Details









From the seller:

Lovely antique c1910 Edwardian lace petticoat - this is super pretty! Likely French. Sheer cotton batiste with lace inserts, and lots of sweet pintucks. Offered "as is" for crafts, re-purposing or design inspiration.

Tiny - measures approx 24" around the waist. It has a 39 inch length, and a sweep around the bottom of 120 inches.

There are discolorations, seam separations, pinholes, and larger holes too, including a larger one near the hem. Not laundered, estate fresh.

Very romantic.


From Me:

This is not a petticoat. It would have been worn over a slip. The ruffles around the diamond lace inserts were meant to be seen - as were the pintucks. The sheerness of the skirt also indicates it is not a petticoat.

1905 Photograph
The all white gowns were very popular in the Edwardian era.   Often, they would be worn over colored slips but they were also worn over basic white to show off the sashes or other colorful accessories.

1880's Bustle Dress with early 1990's Looking Fabric!









From the seller:

A stunning 1880’s gray silk and printed velvet one piece bustle antique dress. The gray fabric has a strong purple under tone. The velvet fabric has an incredible line pattern in shades of burnt orange, gold and olive green on a navy blue back ground. The bodice is trimmed with burnt orange silk. The tops of the sleeves have epaulettes that are made of the printed velvet and backed with burnt orange. The dress is lined with blue silk and has a hidden front hook and eye closure. The front panel of the skirt is made of the velvet fabric. The skirt has a bustled back and a built in bustle cage. The back has two long flowing panels. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There is some light underarm discoloration and a couple of loose seams on the side waist. The white circle spots are from the camera flash and are no present on the dress. There are no holes or splitting. Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 41.

From Me:

Tell me that the front of the skirt doesn't look like early 1990's upholstery fabric!

1887 Fashion Plate