Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Natural Form Child's Dress

From the seller:

A very striking blue and gold striped tafetta child's (could have been worn by a boy or girl) 19th century Victorian dress needing TLC and restoration. Hand sewn lining is intact. I am guessing that it would have fit an 8-10 year old. Full refund if not as described.

From Me:

Given that the seller believes it could have been worn by an older child and, to me, it also looks like an older child's dress, I'm going to say this is for a girl.

Early Edwardian Print Dress

From the seller:

Exquisite, hard to find 3 piece Victorian set in exceptional, very wearable condition. It's as close to brand new as you will ever find...a striking 1800's dress that may have come straight from the dress maker. This matched set includes a fully finished corset jacket with pepblum front and high wrap collar, polished cotton under skirt with matching chintz hemline and the original bustle back over skirt with ruffled flounce. Gorgeous lilac colored floral print against striking black. This genuine 1800's Victorian dress looks like it was never worn...clean as a whistle! The only flaw you will find is a tear of the brown polished cotton waistband. This was from improper hanging...as found...the weight of the skirt caused the tear. This is such a minimal flaw that some neatly darned stitches will easily mend. There are twelve corset stays sewn within the fitted bodice jacket. Early hook closure up the front with rare grommets. Exceptional finish work within the bodice lining. Full matching bustle back hoop skirt with tons of gathers and pleating in the rear. The skirt drapes nicely over the brown polished cotton crinoline liner with matching chintz hemline...the third in this beautiful trio. For serious antique clothing collectors, this is a must see. This is very wearable antique clothing. Please check measurements. The corset jacket was quite tiny and would not hook closed on my dress form....see photos below. Feel free to make an offer...this will make a wonderful gift as it is in museum condition!
Measures as follows:
Bust: 30 inches
Waist: 20 inches
Underarm to hemline: 8 inches
Underarm to sleeve end: 18 inches
Bustle skirt
Waist: 20 inches
Hips: full bustle back
Waist to hemline: 45 inches
Waist: 26 inches
Hips: full bustle inches
Waist to hemline: 42 inches

From Me:

There is not such thing as wearable antique clothing, sorry. We've probably all done it at some point but we've all learned from that mistake as well - the fabric can't handle the movements any normal human will make anymore. It's antique!

Anyway, it's not Victorian either. The outfit is Edwardian. The pigeon front and sleeves give that away.

Turn of the Century Dress

From the seller:

This auction is for a lovely antique 1800's Victorian dress. Bronze silk bustle back skirt with lace bodice corset jacket. The jacket features a silk and handmade lace bodice insert, high golden corduroy cameo collar. Tons of tiny cartridge pleats either shoulder front with tuck ruffles each highly puffed sleeve. Each sleeve cuff is trimmed in matching corduroy. The jacket is beautifully lined in a rare striped polished cotton fabric. In immaculate condition! A total of eleven corset stays are beautifully sewn within the corset. Early hook and eye closure up the front. Skirt supporters sewn to jacket back which were used to prevent the two pieces from separating, thus revealing the ladies underclothing. The matching bustle back skirt features matching bands of golden corduroy along the hemline with matching corduroy dust ruffle under the skirt's hemline. These fine additions have helped to preserve this fine antique silk dress. The skirt is fully lined in a lovely cinnamon red polished cotton. early hook and eye closure at back waist. Tons of gathers in the rear to accommodate your antique bustle pad . The followinf flaws are noted: Upper lace rows in bodice front has tearing. You may want to replace these two rows of lace or try to restore this original antique lace. Dime size hole in upper jacket back. Seam seperation both underarms will need a few neatly placed stitches to mend. The skirt has a lower skirt line of fade with a strip of age spotting along lower hemline tuck...see photos below. This is a very solid genue antique dress that can easily be worn once cleaned and lace bodice addressed. This elegant silk dress measures as follows:
Bust: 32 inches
Waist: 22 inches
Underarm to hemline: 8 inches
Underarm to sleeve end: 18 inches
Waist: 22 inches
Hips: full bustle back inches
Side seam: 38 inches
For serious Victorian clothing collectors, this is a must see bustle dress !

From me:
There. Is. No. Bustle!

The gathers in the back are to make the dress fan out over your own natural backside. That's it. *sighs*

Anyway, this is from anywhere 1898-1901. Very much a Turn of the Century dress.

Regency Era Children's Clothing

From the seller:

A very nice group of 1820’s cotton infant clothing. The group consists of two dresses and a corded bonnet. The first dress has an embroidered hemline. The embroidery is designed with satin stitching and French Knot stitching. The dress has a drawstring neckline. Shoulders 8 Bust 22 Length 23. The second dress has a high Empire waist and pin tucking on the front of the bodice. It has a drawstring closure at the back neck and waist. Shoulders 9 Bust 20 Length 25. The bonnet is designed with padded cording that is intermingled with rows of ruching. All of the garments are hand stitched. They are all in very good condition. The embroidered dress has a couple of pencil tip size age spots and one slightly larger then pencil tip size period mend.

From Me:

I think the pillowcase looking one is actually earlier - maybe 1800's. The Empire waist dress is from 1810's/1820's.

Late 1860's Blouse

From the seller:
A very lovely original pre Victorian to early 1830s to early 1840s lady's 5 bone or baleen stayed bodice, completely meticulously hand created in dainty sheer white dotted swiss cotton fabric. Lots of wonderful detailing including the built in heavier weight cotton camisole that is edged with very narrow ric rac trim. The drop shoulders are decorated with very tight ruching, (even tighter than typical cartridge pleats), very fashionable of the era billowing balloon sleeves that are cuffed with cartridge pleats and a tiny fabric w/ hand tatting covered button to match the delicate front buttons closure. A higher Empire style waist that is completed with fan pleating flowing upwards toward the front bustline and in the back. Truly a superb example of the era. In overall very good condition, an opening in the front, a larger period patch repair in the back , a small opening in back at the nape of the neck and at a patch seam. Although I consider it to be in overall very good displayable and perfect for study condition, I am selling it as is. The bust is 32".

From Me:

I don't see fan pleating on this. I get why the seller might think this is earlier than it is.  The waistline is very deceptive on late 1860's garments.  However, the waistline by the late 1830's/early 1840's reached normal or below normal lengths (some of those 1840's bodices are long).   Also, although it existed in the Romantic era, Swiss Dot was all the rage in the 1860's. 

Plus, there are these paintings showing very similar blouses from the 1860's.

American Civil War Era Petticoat

From the seller:

A beautiful 1860’s Civil War era cotton and eyelet petticoat that has recently been de-accessioned from a museum collection.. The front panel and the hemline are decorative with exquisite eyelet. The petticoat has tight cartridge pleating at the waist. And a back button closure. It is in very good condition. There are no holes. There are a few areas of light age discoloration. A beautiful work of art. Waist 22 Length 38 Width at hemline 138.

From Me:

Probably for a front opening wrapper. The petticoat front would have been visible beneath the dress/wrapper.

Monday, April 28, 2014

Outfit currently styled for the 1890's

From the seller:

We are pleased to offer for your consideration stunning, absolutely glorious and feminine! really museum quality

circa 1880's Rare Victorian Wine Red - Burgundy Sculptured Velour & Silk Satin 2 - Piece Costume Suit Dress

slim - fitted patterned velour BODICE embellished with graduated pleated front silk satin plastrons, hand - knotted silk net with tassels from shoulder to the front and back center to accentuate slim waist, velvet tassels along the edge of upright collar , corset boning in the seams, elongated tailed - back to lay over the bustle, tight slim sleeves with elevated silk satin head, 15 buttons down front closure
A - line siluette patterned velour SKIRT with heavily draped silk satin bottom, three - layered silk full bustle back and back hooks.
The skirt is fully lined in olive satin and burgundy satin.
The bodice inside is shown on the last picture.

Please, look at all the details of the dress.

Unsized, looks like size XS or S, but please, follow only measurement shown in description and compare with your regular garment to prevent any problems.

Measurements. approximately:
30" - 31" - bust
26" waist
14" - shoulders
19" - length from center back to tip of the tailed back of bodice
17" - length of bodice in front
22" - length of sleeves
39" - length of skirt
8" - width of drapery

We do not however have the original bustle cage or padding.

The dress came from the famous San Francisco Bay area auction and they never inform us about item history or previous owners.

The lot was titled: Sculptured Velour and Satin Victorian Dress and we trust them.

The suit / dress is in perfect antique condition commensurable to the more than 130 years old garment: although the velvet is strong and literally in excellent undamaged condition, the silk satin is very fragile from the age with tears on the back part of the skirt and sleeve heads; one minor overstitched tear on the lower front loop (bodice), pic.10, one lower front button is missing (pic.10), a couple of velour tassels on the collar edges are missing; the left lower corner of silk plastron is unstitched; we don't see more problems with velour, it is still very strong, with no tears or holes.
We did not removed any pins on the silk satin back in a reason not to damage this beauty - overall unique pristine condition for more than 130 years old garment!

Please, examine all 12 pictures as a part of description.

We will list today more true vintage dresses, and will be happy to combine auctions for reduced shipping charge.

Please, note: we are not experts and try to describe each item in our best ability, but possible we did not figure something very important to you - please, email us with any questions.

We also invite yo to visit our other auctions for more interesting and rare items: you never know what you will find

Thank you for looking!

From Me:


Yeah, okay.

So..it's velvet not velour. It's also called cut velvet, not sculptured.

Anyway, the dress is currently styled to the early 1890's (1892 ish). However, it's pretty clear that it was a late 1880's dress at some point in it's life. It looks like the lady that owned this dress just took some silk and added puffy sleeves over her existing sleeves (which makes total sense if you are like pretty much everyone I know and loathe taking sleeves out of a garment). She also redid the back of the skirt, slightly, to take out the bustle (which might have been where she got the matching silk from for the puffy sleeves.)