Monday, May 20, 2013

1890's Summer Corset

From the seller:

You are buying a vintage victorian Vigilant ladies corset size medium with metal stays and spoon style closures. Cotton and lace material with some stains see photos. Lacing is intact good condition to body of corset no holes. Measures approx 13 in form top to tip of corset and 27 in when laid out from side to side.

From Me:

Love the summer corsets!

1850's Faux Curl, real hair

From the seller:

These 3 curls measure approx. 11, 12, and 13" long. The hair is dark brown. 2 of the curls have wired bands at the top, the other has a small loop. The label on the box reads "L Grabbe & Co, Importers of Human Hair and Manufacturers Of Human Hair Goods, Wholesale and Retail, Under First National Bank, Davenport, Iowa". The box in skewed out of shape and the top is missing one end flap; the label is soiled as the photos show. There is something written in pencil under the box top, probably the owners name, which I can not make out. I have a hat listed which would look nice with your new curls. Thanks for looking

From Me:

The hairstyle on the box was popular in the 1850's going into the 1860's so the curls are probably from about then.

Drop Dead Gorgoues 1920's Dress

From the seller:

Vintage 1920's Art Deco Peach Scarf Hem Flapper Dress

Vintage 1920's Art Deco Peach Scarf Hem Flapper Dress
Unmarked, peach moire pattern celanese acetate taffeta fabric with florals and net lace.
Front of dress is shorter than the back, much of the net trim is missing.
Dress is in 'fair' condition, with allover light gray spotting, some stains, and the net lace is torn/shredded.
There is one small repair to the backside, and the fabric also has faint content markings in this area as well.


Dress is 39" long in front, and 50" long at back.
Shoulder is 12".

From Me:

I bought this one. It was too pretty and too me to pass up. This is probably a late 1920's dress, given the waist. I'll do a full write up in my other blog - I did a recreation of this dress after taking a lot of notes- but here are some key highlights.

The front of the skirt is a full circle skirt (or, rather half circle since it's just the front) but the back is a pedal skirt. The part that makes it "dip" in the back is the way the waist is done. The cummerbund waist shapes the rest of the dress. Both the cummerbund waist and the skirt are cut on the bias - the tunic top is not. The silk tulle is nearly gone and it's impossible to tell what it originally looked like; however, the dress hardly needs it. There are 6 snaps, each about 2" apart on the right side. I'd gauge the dress as a modern medium. The four flowers on the front are really nothing more than stemmed flowers, two sewn down, two sewn up, to make it look like a continuous line of flowers. The cummerbund waist is gathered beneath the flowers.

I'll put a link here when I finish the write up for the re-creation later.


Link to the recreation

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Early 1860's Light Gray Dress

From the seller:

A majestic 1860’s light gray satin Civil War era dress. The bodice has beautiful Renaissance style sleeves that are lined with ivory silk. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front button closure. The skirt has a long back sweep. There is cartridge pleating at the back waist. The skirt has been relined with newer buckram fabric. The dress is in very good and study condition. There are no holes or splits in the fabric. There is no discoloration just shadows created by the camera flash. There is minor underarm discoloration on the inside lining only. There is some light age spotting on the front of the dress near the waist and discoloration on the inside of one sleeve. (See photo.). A grand display dress. Also offered in a separate auction is an 1860’s black silk over bodice that looks wonderful with this dress. Bust 32 Waist 25 ½ Front skirt length 41 Back length 57 Width at hemline 156.

From Me:


1860's Bodice in Green and White Plaid

From the seller:

A charming 1860’s green and white plaid printed cotton polonaise style bodice. The bodice has full pagoda style sleeves. It has a wide shawl style collar and a small green cotton print collar. The collar and sleeves are trimmed with black velvet ribbon and green silk fringe. The sides of the skirt are gathered up on each side. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front button closure. The bodice is in very good condition. There is some slight underarm discoloration mostly to the inside lining. Bust 32 Waist 24.

From Me:

The bodice itself is very indicative of the early 1860's however the skirt, I think, was added later as the style changed after the American Civil War.

Pintucks and Lace Petticoat Slip Turn of the Century

From the seller:

A wonderful and very detailed Victorian turn of the century cotton/lace dress/undergarment/slip/tea dress/ . There is layers of ecru net & lace,tucks and detailing. This has ribbon shoulder straps with a 9" side zipper. In very nice condition with only a few age spots. Three layers of cotton/lace/trim make the hem full and very beautiful. Measurements are as follows app. 62" Length. 27" waist 32"Bust 57" side length,. Estate find being sold as is and as found. Please ask questions before bidding.

From Me:

Small announcement: I probably won't be able to update the rest of this week and a good chunk of next week. I'm moving my desk at work and studying for a very important upcoming Computer Certification. So, if I go silent, that's why. ;-)

This is actually and Edwardian slip, not Victorian. ....and it's definitely not a Tea Dress.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

1930's Men's Button up Shirt with Original Collars

From the seller:

A vintage mans dress shirt made by Kempton for RH Macy
Blue cotton with indigo, red, pale blue and white stripes
very fine cotton - excellent craftsmanship - roomy old style cut -
The shirt is new old stock - never worn or used..
When we got it it still had its original pins and cardboard and it had a lot of brown discoloration.
We soaked it for several days to remove the staining -
It came out beautifully with no staining or damage (just wrinkling)
It comes with 2 detachable collars that still have their starch..
I have not cleaned those so they do appear a bit discolored but they should clean up easily

In a style used from the teens through the thirties -
The fabric is stamped 'Sanforized" which I think dates it to after 1930
french cuffs - button down front with all buttons and a stud for the collar

Priority and Express Mail are the only international shipping offered

From Me:

The style of the tag is one I know was used in the 1930's, hence why I think it's 1930's as well. Although I normally don't post 1930's, but I think given the uniqueness of this piece, I'll give it a pass. It still has it's original collars!

Turn of the Century dress a seller desecrated

From the seller:

I produce High Teas featuring true vintage wearable antique clothing on live models or in exhibitions, although the top & skirt are true vintage, the accessories have been made to match or store bought to complete the look & to "WOW" the audience. I have to rotate stock & sell it because of my following who wishes to see different outfits to be WOWED by. This is considered a Wearable Antique & is a size small which will fit a size 2 to 5. It has been named the "BLACK ROSE PLANTATION DRESS" in my Show, the black rose appliques have been added for embellishment purposes. Perhaps this can be a fantastic edition to your collection, the accessories are included which are a hat, belt, purse & muff,this is a great value, thank you for looking. Check out my other items! Be sure to add me to your favorites list! This will be sent in 2 boxes insured & is the reason why the postage is a little extra, thank you.

From Me:

Yes, the dress itself is still intact so some of you will take issue with the word "desecrate" in the title. However, desecrate is to disrespect something, which is exactly what this seller did. I get the allure of wearing antique clothing, and in a controlled environment, it can be done for short periods. Even that, can and will cause the fibers of the garment to age more quickly and weaken them. It's not a good idea - as many of us learn over time. To purposefully take a garment that the seller clearly knows nothing about and add "bling" because s/he wanted to name it "black rose" is irresponsible in my opinion. Would you paint over an antique painting and add a tree just because you wanted to rename it?

So, what s/he changed: The neckline. That blue bow and the man made lace was not there originally.

The waist - the blue bow again and the modern roses. The appliques were also added to the cuffs.

The hat and the purse are also modern.

Antique clothing should be treated as the works of art they are and not played with in this manner.

Monday, May 13, 2013

Mid 1860's Dress (poss. remade from an 1850's dress)

From the seller:

This auction is for an original girl's fantasy ball gown from the Antebellum period. Its fabric is a fascinating silk gauze windowpane weave. Its delicate color and fabric embody the delicacy of youth. It almost floats on the air like a bubble! The dress is trimmed on the skirt with 5 wide tucks and the sleeves correspond. It closes at center back with its original hooks and eyes. My favorite detail is the tiny pink silk ribbon used to bind the hem! I have shown the dress displayed in the last photo with an original tulle bertha and cameo to visually underline its great display potential. Neither are included in the auction.

Condition is structurally fair to good. It is strong enough to be displayed very carefully. There is obvious damage to the sheer fabric as well as some color variation. It doesn't distract terribly when viewed from a short distance. There is a dark spot on the silk low down on the left side. I tried to get a photo, but there's a shadow over it. Look closely.

There have been some conservation techniques applied to this dress including reattaching the skirt to the bodice and reconstructing sleeves from the original silk and new cotton lining. Also, spare silk from the inside waist was used to patch in on the shoulders. This is visible if you zoom in on the closeup of the bodice.

Measurements are: The bust is 33 inches & the bodice waist measures 22 inches. The length of the skirt is 38 inches.

From Me:

With a 22" waist and a 33" Bust, you aren't talking about a child but a young lady or a petite woman. The waistline indicates this is later than the 1850's - most likely the very tail end of the American Civil War. The skirt wasn't envogue at that point but it would work for something to wear when there is a parade of all the soldiers returning home. ;-)