Monday, September 26, 2016

Late Victorian Black Silk Tea Gown


From the seller:

ANTIQUE MOURNING GGOWN
Label: Daniels & Fisher Denver

Description:
Black silk floral damask mourning gown from the late 1800s to early 1900s
Yellow velveteen collar probably added later
Lace wide collar, around the cuffs and in gathered rows down the center front
Velvet and lace around the hem
Satin sash and big bow in the front
Boned inside
Large pleat in the center back starts at the top and forms a train...It is large enough for a bustle underneath
It has a museum number tag attached on the inside
Note: the photos have been lightened a bit to show the details
Condition:

The fabric has shattered all over, mostly small holes and tears that are visible when held up to a light...It is not stable enough to wear without restoration
The bodice flap is torn
It can be restored, or used for fabric or pattern study
Measurements:

These measurements are taken flat with a flexible measuring tape...You have to be smaller than the measurements to allow room for ease:

There is no size tag, fits a XXS
Shoulder to shoulder: 14 inches
Sleeve length: 24 inches
Bust: 30 inches
Waist: 22 inches
Hip: full
Length center back: 59 inches


From Me:

I bought this one. :-) It is absolutely stunning in person. However, it is not a mourning gown - or wasn't when it was last used. The richness of the brocade, the ridiculous amount of lace, and the bright orangy yellow velvet collar mean this was most likely just a very elegant tea gown.

Some of my pictures:

The inside of the gown.  Notice the waistband is upside down

The inside of the armscye.  The lining appears to be red polished cotton

Lace on the cuff.  It's very crudely based on - making me think it might be a later addition.

Lace on the front of the skirt.

Lace and velvet trim at the hem of the gown.  This is everywhere except the very front piece

Gathered trim at the very front

Watteau pleating in the back.  

The belt is sewn into the center back under the pleat

The belt is based about five inches out to keep it in place.  It's lined in cotton.  

The floral brocade

Waist bow

This is the back of the collar with the collar undone.  It's possible the hint of orange-y yellow velvet was added later but I doubt it.  


After studying this gown in person for a while, I'm pretty sure it's late 1890's. Here are some fashion plates:

1898 Fashion Plate
1898 Fashion Plate
1899 Fashion Plate


The way the belt goes up in the back is pretty common in the late 1890's tea gowns. The sleeves still have a hint of puff at the upper back and the amount of lace that goes out over the shoulders would also be common then.

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Mid 1920's Summer Dress












From the seller:


Description:
Please note that photos were taken with and without a black slip to show the detail...It is not included...Any color lining or slip can be used if to be worn
Lightweight and sheer cotton batiste chemise from the 1920s
Embellished with strips of Battenburg tape lace on the shoulders, neckline and down the front and back
Pintucks in the front and back
Crochet dangles are attached to the ends of faggoting pieces in the front...One is missing, but there is an extra one on the same side that can be moved
Three rows of tulle ruffles around the bottom
Small hidden mother of pearl buttons down the center back
Three crocheted buttons on the lace in the center back
Condition:

There are small tears in the fabric in the front and 3 under the left arm (see closeup photos)
The lace has a few breaks in the connector bars here and there
Otherwise, in good condition
Measurements:

These measurements are taken flat with a flexible measuring tape...You have to be smaller than the measurements to allow room for ease:

There is no size tag, fits an XL as is, but the sides can be taken in to fit
Bust: 44 inches
Waist: 44 inches
Hip: 44 inches
Length from shoulder: 42 inches


From Me:
1924 Fashion Plate


Most likely, this would have been worn with a very colorful slip but it could have easily been worn with a white one.

Edwardian Slip










From the seller:

EDWARDIAN PRINCESS SLIP
Label: none

Description:
One piece soft cotton corset cover and petticoat, also known as a princess slip, from the early 1910s
Three rows of ruffles trimmed with lace on the bodice in the front
Large ruffle sewn on to the slip around the bottom with a satin ribbon, pintucks and eyelet flowers
There is a small ruffle on the bottom of the slip
Buttonholes and 2 small buttons in the center back
The ad for princess slips is from a 1911 Macy's catalog
Condition:

Five buttons are missing...only 2 buttons are left at the top
The center back seam has ripped from the end of the opening to the ruffle
Otherwise, in good condition
Measurements:

These measurements are taken flat with a flexible measuring tape...You have to be smaller than the measurements to allow room for ease:

There is no size tag, fits an XXS
Bust: 30 inches
Waist: 24 inches
Hip: 38 inches
Length from shoulder: 48 inches


From Me:

The slip is from the early 1900's, not 1910's as the seller suggests. The biggest glaring reason for that is those bust ruffles - they were meant to help the blouse to puff out in the very popular pigeon breast look of the late 1890's into the Edwardian era. By the 1910's, the pigeon front had long been out of favor and there would be no need for the ruffles.

Turn of the Century Lace Gown
















From the seller:
EDWARDIAN WEDDING GOWN
Label: none

Description:
Off-white Battenburg lace 2-piece wedding gown from the early 1900s
The bodice has a ruffled silk chiffon yoke and ruffles on the sleeve cuffs
Attached velveteen pleated cummerbund
Lined in silk and muslin inside with stays
Hooks and eyes in center front
The trained skirt is lined in silk with rows of ruffles around the hem
Attached to the ruffles is a crinoline and lace ruffle
This is a great restoration project, or use the fabric for other projects
Condition:

Sold as is...The lace has some broken connecting threads here and there especially around the bottom, but generally in very good condition
All of the silk has shattered and must be removed
The bottom ruffles and silk chiffon pieces are salvageable
Measurements:

These measurements are taken flat with a flexible measuring tape...You have to be smaller than the measurements to allow room for ease:

There is no size tag, fits an xxs
Shoulder to shoulder: 13 inches
Sleeve length: 22 inches
Bust: 30 inches
Waist: 22 inches
Hip: 40 inches
Skirt length center front: 41 inches
Skirt length center back: 55 inches
Remember, vintage is NOT new...This is previously worn and will show minor wear...I have inspected and mentioned any noticeable or detracting flaws, noting whether this garment is wearable or not...If not, it can still be appreciated and used for fabric, pattern or construction study...This is sold As Found...Repairing flaws, cleaning, spot removal and pressing is the responsibility of the buyer, as I don't want to damage the garment.


From Me:

Although this is a wedding dress, I'm pretty sure, it's a few years older than the seller believes. The fluff around the neckline meant to make the shoulders look big, make me think this one is from about 1897/1898.

1897 Fashion Plate

The silk of the underdress is completely shattered but, like all old textiles, it still tells us much. The hem is pretty well preserved even if the skirt itself is not. There are a ton of ruffles along the hem meaning this dress was to stand out a bit from the wearer. The lace overdress would have been expensive as well as the silk taffeta. The colors and the general expense do make it out to be more of a wedding gown than a simple fancy ball gown - also the high neckline would be more appropriate for a wedding.