Friday, March 31, 2017

Edwardian Handkerchief Hemmed Summer Dress

From the seller:

Excellent condition for age. Bound seams, entredeux, lace up and down dress with very wide skirt.
Measurements: across back just under sleeve is 19 1/2". the waist has elastic. Relaxed it is 14" across. Stretched, the waist is 16 3/4"

From Me:

I am in love with the details of this dress. The pintuck diamonds, the insert lace, and that fabulous handkerchief hemline are all too beautiful together.  The sleeves give away the age of this one pretty well.  1905, most likely.

1905 Fashion Plate

Edwardian Day Dress in Brown

From the seller:

Two piece afternoon dress, ca. 1897. Made of rusty brown velvet corduroy with yellow stripes. High inset lace dickey. Black net trim with cream and gold embroidery. Cut steel on gold metal buckle. Little train of the skirt. Very good condition. Only the fabric beneath the lace is worn on a few places. The jacket edge show worn. The decoration is not included.
Bust: ~ 33"
Waist: ~ 24"
Front Length: ~ 54"
Back Length: ~ 64"

From Me:

I really think this is an older lady's dress and that it's from a bit later than the seller thinks. This was a hard one to date because I can see why the seller thinks it is late 1890's. However, 1897, still had a bit of the crazy 1890's sleeve left, which this doesn't have at all.  Instead, look at how the waist is pleated to look like a full dress belted.  Notice how flat the front of the skirt is and how much volume is towards the back.

This one is from 1909.

1909 Fashion Plate

Although you start to see the waistlines go up in 1908, many ladies were still wearing outfits at the natural waist going into 1910.  The above fashion plate, the pink dress shows the flat front with the waistline gathered.   

1909 Fashion Plate
The above fashion plate makes the whole flat front with pleats on the sides and volume to the back much clearer.  

Sunday, March 26, 2017

Late Victorian Turn of the Century Yellow Dress

From the seller:
Fanciful and extraordinary yellow silk trained gown with off-white fine net ruffles. The ruffles are made of a fine netting. They are applied on a white braid and then sewn onto the gown Bodice and cuffs have an inner lining of gold lame. Gold lame belt with two ornamental buckles. The material is in excellent condition as it's built on a cotton lining. Yellow velvet thin ribbons highlight the bodice. This antique outfit is in quite excellent condition. Only the inner lining of gold lame it’s darkened. Darker areas on the backside of the bodice. May be the ornamental buckles are newer. The decoration is not included.
Waist: ~ 24"
Bust: ~ 30"
Front Length: ~ 58"
Back Length: ~ 66"

From Me:

This is so frilly, so feminine, and yet so scandalous at the same time it's really amazing to look at. Why scandalous? Check out that neckline. See the sheer neck? See how low that sheer bit dips in the front? It's meant to look like it's covering everything when, really, it's sheer as sheer can be.

1899 Fashion Plate

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Late 1880's Day Dress in Blue and Red

From the seller:

Gorgeous bustle gown in a tone on tone stripe silk brocade and a contrasting red and navy velvet & twill silk brocade, ca. 1890. The waist has a collar in velvet with a pleat bib front and velvet stripe lapels. Gorgeous blue cut steel buttons close down the center front. Dart fitted under the bust through to the hemline. Pleated fan peplum rests on the bustle. Long, set in sleeves end with a turned under finish and velvet stripe fluted cuffs. The dart fitted and gored skirt falls in alternating panels of the brocades. Blue muslin section at the upper back skirt with a back hook closure. Over skirt falls in gathers from a string tie and rests across the bustle. Good condition. There is edge wear on some of the seams of the bodice. Underarm stains with minor breaking to the silk. There is a large greenish stain on the front hemline. A few pin holes on the lower overskirt. There are a couple other tiny dots, but nothing major. The decoration is not included.
Waist: ~ 23"
Bust: ~ 28"
Front Length: ~ 56"
Back Length: ~ 59"

From Me:

I love how garish this outfit is. It's like an understated patriotic dress that didn't quite want to go for the full red, white, and blue. However, based on the fit, this was probably for a young lady.  The colors were very popular in 1888.  Also, the sleeves in 1890 had already started to "poof", so this is probably from about 1888.

1888 Fashion Plate

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Edwardian Evening Gown in Cream by Worth!

From the seller:

Exceptional two piece evening gown, made of cream brocade silk, tulle and lace, ca. 1898. Woven petersham: “Worth, Paris”. Number: P 8804. Property deaccessioned by The Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts (MESDA), to benefit the collections and acquisitions funds. Hand written notice: „Evening Dress, Miss L.S. Drayer, worn about 1898“. Front pleated bodice with long tulle applications on a suggested belt. ½ sleeves made of lace. Tulle applications on the necklace and on the chest. Sequins embroideries in the chest area. Back closure with laces. Over the lacing a closure with hooks and eyes. Skirt with silk floral boarder, lace and floral embroidered lace. Long train. Very good condition. Stain on tulle and on front of the bodice. Stain on skirt on brocade on back. Old dirt. You’ll barely notice. The original laces are fragil and torn. The decoration is not included.
Bust: ~ 38"
Waist: ~ 29"
Front Length: ~ 60"
Back Length: ~ 88"

From Me:

I doubt this is from 1898. 1898 they were still having a last gasp of puffed sleeves with just a hit of puff at the shoulder. Rather, the fitted elbow length sleeve with flare around the cuff is much more in tune with the 1901/1902 time frame.

1902 Fashion Plate