Friday, December 30, 2016

Teen's Era Brassiere

From Sarah:

My mother just gave me an old "bra". It may be meant more as a negligee item. Wedding most likely. The lace appears to be all hand work and it's very delicate. If you'd like to include it in your blog, please do. And I can send measures or more photos if you like.

FYI, the band of vertical lace (or whatever it would be called) looks to be a faded light blue but that's just a guess.

From Me:

Hi Sarah! Sarah is one of the poor people that puts up with my constant chatter and ridiculousness at work. As she can attest, I am very good at earworms and will happily publish out to everyone exactly what song I'm either thinking about or listening to to share in the horribleness. :-D

This brassiere is fabulous for a lot of reasons. If it is light blue, that would make a lot of sense for a wedding (the whole something blue). The tatting lace at the top of the brassiere is lovely. The styling is more in line with the Teen's Era - or even late Edwardian because of how the gathers are around the cotton base.

Some other examples from roughly the same time period:
1915-1925 Brassiere at MFA
1915-1925 Brassiere with a print at MFA
1915-1919 At the MET
1915-1920 At the MET
1917 Brassiere

1918 Undies Advertisement
1918 Undies Advertisement

Edwardian Pink Striped Black Silk Dress

From the seller:

This lovely dress is Victorian and possibly as early as the Civil War era. It is made from heavy black satin with pink stripes bordered by black velvety stripes. The top has dropped shoulders with billowy sleeves; the stripes were fashioned diagonally in an artistic fashion on the bodice. As you can see, the collar and upper bodice were made of pink silk covered with black gauzy fabric. The top fastens up the front with hook and eyes (and 1 snap possibly added later) while the collar fastens in the back. The skirt also fastens in the back with hook and eyes. There are 2 little self poufs on the front as decoration.

The top measures 17" long with a 14" neck and a 26" waist, while the sleeves measure about 20". The skirt has a 26" waist but measures a huge 144" around the bottom. It isn't gathered, rather the material was taken in in what looks like darts as it moved toward the top, amazing really. It is lined with black polished cotton with a black ruffle around the inside bottom.

As far as condition, there is some splitting under the right arm, and there is some wear around the top of the collar and the waist band of the skirt. It appears that someone sewed the front together after it was on them as I see some loose black threads. I also note that the very bottom in back was wet at one time and there is a small water stain and wear to the fabric. However on the whole the dress is in super shape and with a little care and TLC I believe it could be worn; it is very beautiful.

From Me:

One of my lovely readers, Karla, sent this one to my attention. ...And yes, I started to giggle as soon as I read when the seller thought this was from. American Civil War? Really?

Instead, the whole puffy bottom half of the sleeve thing (and high neck!) was very popular circa 1902/1903:

1902 Fashion Plate

Also, even the way it's sewn is so very indicative of the early Edwardian era - the raw seams on the inside and the boning in the bodice - the silk lining rather than the typical brown cotton we see with American Civil War gowns. Then there is the skirt. There is no way you could fit an 1860's crinoline under that thing.  It looks like it would just fit a human pair of hips and a petticoat at the hip line.  Also, the skirt is gored.

Late 1930's Blue Velvet Dress

From the seller:

Beautiful Vintage 1930s Blue Velvet Dress Small

Amazingly soft- what feels like silk velvet. Unlined. Fastens at the front with w zip to the waist and then hook and eye and popper closures down the front bust area. Beautiful gathering details.

Bust measures 36 inches, waist 28 inches. It has a matching belt and belt loops at the side.

Perfect condition. A few loose threads here and there that could be snipped off but nothing major at all. Amazing for its age

From Me:

1930's Advertistment
McCall 3169 | 1939 Evening Dress

This probably was absolutely fabulous looking in it's day although a bit threadbare now. The McCall's pattern has the same shoulder treatments as this extant gown.  Can you imagine doing those gathers on velvet?  Yikes!  

Late 1930's Blue Velvet Gown

From the seller:

Vintage Blue Velvet Lace Collared Dress

Beautiful little dress with a button up front, puff sleeves and lace collar. Measures bust 34 inch, waist 28 inches. Fastens with a zip at the side. Beautiful detailing

The seams have come apart in a few places- easily sewn back together. The (silk, I think) velvet is fairly fragile and has torn in a few places near the seams- it needs some tape on the back to fix it. I didn't notice this until I examined it for listing, and I haven't attempted to mend the dress. It has been priced accordingly. Still great shape for its age. The velvet is super soft and supple.

From Me:
1937 Fashion Pattern from What-I-Found

I am in love with this dress. Very much late 1930's in style but look at those gathers! Or that cute lace detail!

Saturday, December 24, 2016

Perfect Christmas Dress Circa 1890s!

From the seller:

A regal 1893 - 1895 stunning green striped floral silk 2 piece bustled gown with large puffed sleeves.

Recently de-accessioned from the Rochester historical museum collection in New York state. The gown still retains it's original Museum ID catalog tags. LABEL ON PETERSHAM READS "H. FRAME 48 WEST 37TH ST. NEW YORK".

The bodice has a attached dark blue velvet lapels or collar that extend into a lovely stand up collar with marabou feather decorations. JUST LOVELY. The cuffs also are adored with the marabou feathers. Lovely inner satin bodice with raised flowers and beadwork.

The back of bodice has a pleated peplum. Large puffed sleeves narrow down to a velvet and lace cuff.

Wide Valennciennes lace adorns the front opening and on sleeve cuffs.

The bodice is lined with pink satin and green satin and with 13 covered whale bone baleen stays and has a front hook and loop closure. The inner pink satin lining has shredded.

The bodice has turned lapels lined with the green striped silk. The bodice has 6 metal buttons with rhinestones and faux pearls.

The skirt has a long back sweep and accented with gatherings of pleats on the back. Inside the skirt are ties that gather the pleats. The skirt closes by hooks and eyes at the back and gathers with pleats in the back for a nice fall. The skirt is lined with a green silk satin lining that is in very good condition. A little cushioned bustle is sewn into the inner back of the shirt below its hook and loop closures. The skirt also has ties inside to arrange the bustle effect.

Condition: The outfit is in fair condition. The bodice pink lining has shredded. No discoloration or underarm stains on the outfit. No repairs but unfortunately has small fabric splits scattered about on the skirt as well as bodice. This can be stabilized. A truly grand display dress/gown or for study.



Bust 35", Waist 28",

Curved sleeve length 26"

Across back: 11"

Front skirt length: 40"


Waist 32"

Back length 47"

A truly grand display dress/gown or for study.

From Me:

1894 Fashion Plate

I think it's 1894 simply because you don't see the exaggerated collars on dresses until that point. In 1893, there are exaggerated collars, but only on coats and jackets.

1920's Tulle Sheer Gown with Pintucks!

From the seller:

Antique & french evening gown.
Depression era
All in tulle
In good condition some stitches to sew
The pink under dress is not part of the sale,

From Me:

Well, the depression started in 1928 here in the states Not depression era. It's probably from about 1923 but it's very much 1920's. Take a look at the pintucks on the skirt!