Monday, May 28, 2018

Light Colored 1890's Day Dress

From the seller:


A regal 1890's satin 2 PIECE walking suit, having a high necked beaded trimmed collar and and wonderful large puffed sleeves.

Recently de-accessioned from the Metropolitan museum of Art in New York City. The gown still retains it's original Museum ID catalog string tag and sewn in tags.

No designer label.
The bodice is accented with cream colored sheer organdy with black leaves design, found on collar, front insert and on sleeves. The bodice is lined with white silk and with 13 covered whale bone baleen stays and has front hook and loop closure.

The skirt closes by hooks and loops at the back and is poor/fair condition. Its silk lining has a added wide net lace dust ruffle at hem. Inside of skirt has ties to adjust fullness bustle effect. The hem has a wire inserted around perimeter added for fullness at base. The back is accented with a large satin bow and the skirt is gathered into numerous pleats that makes for a nice fall.

Condition: The outfit is in fair/good condition for its age. The bodice lining has begun to shred. No underarm staining. The organdy has begun to split.

The skirt lining is in the beginnings of shredding. The outside satin of skirt has begun to split in one area as seen in last photos. Two small water stains in front from my iron spitting.


Jacket: Bust: 35", Waist: 32", Across back shoulders seam to seam 12",
Shoulder to jacket hem: 46",
Sleeve length: 23" with cuff turned up. Shoulder to bodice hem 18", Shoulder to hem front 58", Shoulder to hem back
Skirt: Waist 31-1/2",
Front length 40-1/2",
Back length 44-1/2".

A truly grand outfit. A great display outfit and worthy of repair. Antique clothing should not be worn

From Me:

I think it's a couple years later than the seller believes - mostly due to the ribbons on the shoulders which were popular later. Really, the next time I see some of that fabulous summer scarf making material, I might consider it for a dress like this instead. :-)

Friday, May 18, 2018

Titanic Era Dress

From the seller:

Vintage Edwardian Blue Chiffon Silk Hand Stitched Embroidered Panel LS Dress XS

This amazing vintage Edwardian aqua blue chiffon silk long sleeve dress has a hand stitched and embroidered front panel snap over bib and bottom. It has a left side hook and snap closure and is silk lined.

This dress is very delicate!

Estimated Size XS

Approx Measurements:

Shoulder to Shoulder - 15"
Shoulder Seam to Cuff - 21"
Underarm to Cuff - 16"
Chest - 32"
Waist - 26"
Length - 52"

This dress is very fragile and needs some TLC
It has been re worked under the arms and has slight staining
Fabric is torn in many places, especially shoulder due to hanging
In Otherwise Excellent to Near Mint Condition

From Me:
1912 Fashion Plate

The long pencil skirt with a bit of "fluff" in the bodice, were very popular from about 1910 until 1913.  This extant beauty has the dog leg closure and some rather fabulous embroidery. 

Thursday, May 3, 2018

1830's Riding Habit Waistcoat (?)

From the seller:

Victorian Women's French Toile Blue Print Linen Double Breasted Waistcoat Vest

1860-1960 One hundred years of fashion & accessories

This antique Victorian era women's French toile blue print linen double breasted waistcoat vest dates from the late 19th century. It is made of an off white, blue French Toile de Jouy floral botanical print linen fabric, with a grayish blue trim edging. There is an off white cotton linen fabric backing and inside lining. This wonderful women's waistcoat vest has a late 18th century gentlemens French waistcoat style which is longer in the front with peplum skirted panels, faux pockets, a fitted waist, fold over collar and is double breasted with matching fabric covered buttons for closure on the front. The vest measures 25 inches long in the front, 15 inches long in the back, with a 36 inch bust and 24 inch waist. It is in good as-is condition, with a few faint small stains, some fraying along the blue trim edging and a small frayed hole on the bottom front panel (see close-ups). This is truly a rare and unique piece of womens wearable antique Victoriana!

From Me:
UGH! Ignoring the "wearable" part for now - this isn't even Victorian. Oh yes, at first blush, it looks like it could be 1870's but look at the way the shoulders are cut. Look at how high the waistline is in the back. Also check out the close up of the fraying - the twill is handstitched on!

Then there is the fabric itself...that's what the big clue was. Yes, fabric is often reused but look:

1825 Fabric from the Winterthur Museum

1830s print from the Spencer Museum of Art via Barbara Brackman's Blog

1825-1830 via Utah Quilt Appraiser

Okay, so the fabric is from the 1820s/1830s but we see fabric reused all the time. Going back to the cut, I looked up riding habits of the time and was not disappointed.

The above 1830's Riding habit hints at the waistcoat underneath but I wanted to see if there was one that showed a similar waistcoat.
1836/7 fashion plate from the V&A

Although the back of the blue riding habit has the same lines as the back of the waistcoat, there aren't any easily visible waistcoats on the ladies. However, all the men do have the double breasted style very similar to this extant one.

There aren't any fashion plates from the 1830's that show a riding habit with a waistcoat (the funny thing is that you see them in both the 1820's and the 1840's) but the cut, particularly at the shoulders, is so very 1830's, that the latest I'd put this is about 1842.