Friday, January 31, 2014

One of those off topic posts

Small Transitional stays
 

I'm very happy to announce that I have finished my first pattern for sale.  It's of a pair of 1790's stays I have in my private collection.  This is to the original measurements and would fit a smaller sizes (a small busted 2 to a large busted 6 due to the squish factor and the lacing in both front and back).  the pattern is based off the blue stays that you can see at the bottom of the link.

The pattern is currently only for a size small but I do plan on adding a medium and large in the near future. You can buy the fat quarter at spoonflower.

I have made my own short stays from this pattern (with modifications because I'm not a small person) and LOVE them. I actually have two pairs. Here's the red pair:
IMG00029-20101106-1306

I don't think I have a picture of the blue pair, but I wear them with pretty much every single Regency gown I've made. The blue pair are a bit hardier because of the fabric I used. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Natural Form Fancy Dress












From the seller:

For your consideration today, we have a stunning antique Victorian ball gown bustle dress. It is not displayed properly on my mannequin, I did not want to fool with it too much, due to the weight and fragile nature of the fabric. The bodice is black and looks like a satin type of fabric. It has a hook and eye closure in the front, and is longer in the front and back than the sides. Along the hooks is lovely hand embroidery in green, burgundy, yellow and metallic gold. The sleeves are three quarter, and have larger matching embroidery at the cuff, with lace at the end. The bodice has stays and is fully lined. There are long beaded dangles around the hem, with some steel beads and metallic cording. The skirt weighs over 5 pounds!!! The front of the skirt is yellow silk, and the center panel has lovely hand embroidered designs, and yellow bow type of decoration around the hem where the yellow shows. The sides of the embroidered section have two yellow panels that connect to the black part of the dress. The black part is scalloped all along the sides, and around the hem, with lace showing beyond the scallop. It has the same wonderful embroidery in two sections. I ran out of picture room, but the embroidery is all done by hand and is just fabulous!!! The black section would gather at the top and puff out in layers, but you can't tell in the pictures. The skirt is fully lined. I can just imagine what a fabulous gown this must have been in it's day!!! As beautiful as it is, it has many condition issues and is not wearable. The bodice has many missing pieces of the dangles at the hem, the yellow fabric along the hook area has splitting and fraying, and the yellow lining has many splits and holes. The black fabric on the bodice is in good condition. The skirt has the most damage. The yellow fabric is in poor condition. The two side panels near the waist are torn, splitting and fragile and weak. The front panel with the embroidery is pretty good, but the panels on the side have splits and tears, one pretty long tear near the bottom above the bow section. There is wear and tears at the embroidery along the scalloped sides and some splits and tears in other places. I believe most of this was due to the weight of this piece. So this piece has many many flaws, but what a great example of the grandeur of the era. Please keep in mind that these items have been in storage and may have odors. I keep all of these old clothes in bags with Downy fabric softener sheets to keep them fresh. I think that this would fit a small to medium, but I have provided the following measurements with the pieces laid flat:

TOP

ARMPIT TO ARMPIT--18.5"

SHOULDER TO HEM--17" sides 22" front

WAIST--15.5"

SKIRT--

WAIST--14.5"

WAIST TO HEM FRONT --39.5"

WAIST TO END OF TRAIN IN BACK--70"


From Me:

This is probably right around that 1879/1880 cusp. And I have named this dress "Lillipad". I hope that Lilly found her frog prince!

1850's Day Dress with wild fabric















From the seller:

Wonderful antique early Victorian day dress, which has been produced from cream wool fabric, with delicate red, yellow and green floral roller printed pattern. The gown has pleated "v" detail to the front of the bodice, ending with a "v" to the waistline. The gown has short pagoda sleeves, and I suspect that it may have had detachable lower sleeves, although these are missing. The gown has a split to the seam to allow access to a pocket in the underskirt or petticoat, and fastens to the back via a series of blacked steel hooks and eyes.



AGE

Early Victorian, circa 1845-55.






SIZE




Bodice

Length- 14"

Bust - 32"

Waist - 24"

Sleeve - 9½" (shoulder to cuff)




Skirt

Front length- 38"


From Me:

This is very mid 1850's in style. I love all the detail shots of this dress - thank you, Seller!- and how colorful the fabric is. This would have been worn with false undersleeves.

Late Teens Era Evening Dress





From the seller:
This exquisite Edwardian Titanic era silver lamé black and gold metallic net lace evening gown dates from 1912. It is made of a silver metallic lamé silk fabric lining, with a sheer black tulle net and gold metallic embroidered lace overlay done in a circular swirling medallion, branch leaf design pattern. This gorgeous evening gown dress is a long floor length, with a layered drape asymmetrical uneven style, long exaggerated flared net kimono style sleeves, a large fuchsia pink velvet flower trim at the waist, silver lamé rosette rosebud flower trim on the back, fully lined in silk and snap, hook closures down the back. The dress measures 60 inches long, with 38 inch hips, a 28 inch waist and 38 inch bust. It is in good condition, with some faint tarnish discoloration on the silver lamé lining front skirt and discoloration staining under the arm. This is truly a rare and exceptional quality made piece of wearable art!

From Me:

It looks later than 1912 to my eye. I'm thinking more 1918 here - particularly with those sleeves!

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Teens Era Teal Dress







From the seller:


THIS DRESS DATES TO THE EDWARDIAN ERA AND IS SOLD AS FOUND, GREAT FOR ITS PARTS OR FOR RESTORATION. THE SKIRTING IS FASHIONED OF A GREEN SILK VELVET WITH A DENSE WAVING PIPE RUNNING COMPLETELY AROUND THE FRONT AND REAR, MATCHING VELVET BELT ENCIRCLES THE WAIST WITH ITS BODICE IN A NET BASE THAT IS TRIMMED IN BANDS OF DENSE EMBROIDERED SOUTACHE ON NET.




THE OVER BLOUSE IS IN SILK CHIFFON BUT THERE IS HEAVY BREAKAGE UNDER THE ARMS AND THROUGH THE SLEEVES AND IS IN NEED OF COMPLETELY REMOVAL. DEFINITELY WELL WORTH RESTORING AS THE FULL BASE GARMENT IS THERE AND IS OTHERWISE IN STRONG CONDITION.




MEASURES 32 INCHES AROUND THE BUST, 24 INCHES AROUND THE WAIST, AND 50 INCHES IN LENGTH




From Me:

Early to mid Teens era.

Mid to Late 1870's Dress








From the seller:


THIS GOWN DATES TO THE VICTORIAN 19TH C AND IS TWO PIECE IN ITS CONSTRUCTION, FASHIONED OF A BROWN SILK FAILLE WITH A THICK CORD WEAVE




THE BODICE BUTTONS CLOSED UP THE FRONT, LINED IN COTTON, WITH ITS REAR IN A BUTTON TRIMMED BUSTLE BACK




THE SKIRTING IS IN LAYERS OF MATCHING FABRIC, HEAVILY RUFFLED IN THE BOTTOM SWEEP, DOUBLE APRON DRAPES IN THE FRONT, THE REAR RUCHED AND IN WATERFALL BUSTLE STYLE WITH FULL POOF VOLUME




WHAT THIS GOWN NEEDS IS THE SILK TAFFETA TRIMS FULLY REPLACED. THE SILK IS BROKEN THROUGHOUT, AN EASY FIX, AS ONCE RETRIMMED THE PIECE WOULD BE PRISTINE. STRONG AND WEARABLE, TWO PINHEAD POKES IN THE APRON FRONT COULD BE HIDDEN WITH A STITCH OR A BOW TRIM. THERE IS SOME MINOR STAINING UNDER THE ARMS, OTHERWISE CLEAN. AN ESTATE FRESH 1880'S BUSTLE GOWN




MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES:




BODICE:

BUST: 36

WAIST: 26

SHOULDERS: 16

REAR LENGTH: 27




SKIRT:

WAIST: 26

LENGTH: 40 INCHES WITH REAR 2 INCHES LONGER




From Me:

Probably about 1876 on this one. Those sleeves are very 1870's.

Late Edwardian Yellow Blouse





From the seller:

THIS SHIRT WAIST DATES TO THE EDWARDIAN ERA AND IS FASHIONED OF SILK TAFFETA, CLOSING WITH HOOKS IN THE REAR.




MACHINE MADE LACE TRIMS THE FRONT AND HIGH COLLAR, THE BUTTERSCITCH SILK TRIMMED IN BLACK PIPING WITH STRIPED SILK BUTTONS TRIMMING THE FRONT, LAPELS IN A CHEMICAL LACE




SLEEVE ARE HALF LENGTH, TRIMMED IN LACE AND RUFFLES




THE SILK AROUND THE HIGH COLLAR NEEDS SEVERAL STITCHES TO REATTACH, THE REAR SIDE HAS A DRIP WATER STAIN AS PICTURED, OTHERWISE IN EXCELLENT FULLY STRONG AND WEARABLE CONDITION




MEASURES:

BUST: 32 INCHES

WAIST: 24 INCHES

LENGTH: 18 INCHES


From Me:

Probably early Teens era.

Teal 1870's Bustle Era Dress








From the seller:

A majestic 1880’s deep teal blue bustle dress. The bodice has a high neck and front button closure. It is lined with cotton. The skirt has a pleated front and the center panel is decorated with blue satin ribbon bows. The back of the skirt has a draped panel that is gathered into a bustle effect. The skirt is lined with cotton and has ties on the inside for adjusting the bustle effect. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There is slight underarm discoloration, a 1 inch stress break under one arm and a few minor pencil tip size holes on the bodice and one small pea size hole on the skirt. A very attractive display dress Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 40.

From Me:

I'm pretty sure this is 1870's based on the waistline, bodice length, and sleeves. Also, it's rather simple (although lovely) which would make more sense in the 1870's.