Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Folk Costume Chemise

From the seller and here as well:

Late Georgian to Early Victorian chemise circa 1820 through 1830. Heavy unbleached linen with hand embroidered scalloped edges. Scoop neckline with interior drawstring. Embroidered monogram of "FL" at center front neckline. Garment is entirely hand-stitched. The tiny dark stitches that were used to lay out the embroidery patterns are still visible. Unlined. No closures.

CONDITION: Excellent with some small marks (maybe ink?) on front. This garment has not been cleaned, and spots may come out from laundering. Further photographs available upon request.
MATERIAL: Unbleached Linen
COLOR: Off-White
MEASUREMENTS: Please compare the measurements listed below to a garment that fits you well. These measurements were taken with the garment lying flat, and when appropriate, doubled to calculate the circumference.

Bust: 46"

Center Front Panel Width: 19"

Across Shoulders: 17"

Sleeve Length: 5"

Length from Shoulder Seam to Hem: 40"

From Me:

This isn't 1820's but more likely 1920's. Look at that machine stitching! Provencal or folk costumes were worn in Europe - and even to a degree here in the United States- well into the 20th Century. The chemise for a folk costume didn't change until really the mid 20th C. It does follow the same lines as the Regency chemise/shift/smock/insert favorite word here for glorified undershirt but it has machine stitching so...no.

1890's White Cotton and Lace Dress

From the seller:

A charming 1880’s white batiste cotton and eyelet summer seaside dress. The dress is being displayed over a bustle cage that is not included. The bodice and skirt are trimmed with bands of eyelet. The front of the bodice has a flared open section with a pin tucked button front. The front panel of the skirt has rows of pin tucking. The bodice is unlined and the skirt is lined with an attached petticoat. The dress is in crisp and clean condition. There is no underarm discoloration and no age spotting. The back center peplum has a raw center edge. It probably has eyelet trim. There is an extra piece of trim that came with the dress and was probably used in this area. It will be included. A very pretty display dress. Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 41.

From Me:

Dear Seller,

I thought you were cool. You lose 50 cool points for saying this is an 1880's bustle dress.

No love,

The fact that the skirt looks higher in the back than in the front with the bustle should have been one big clue as to the date of this dress...if you could even see the dress beyond the sleeves of doom! The leg-o-mutton sleeve was a huge feature in the 1890's. Most of us probably remember Anne of Green Gables and her longing for a dress with puffed sleeves - sort of like this. It was the fashionable thing to wear in the 1890's.

American Civil War Era Green Striped Dress

From the seller:

A fetching 1860’s two tone green silk brocade dress that has recently been de-accessioned from a museum collection. The fabric has a dark green stripe on a light olive green background. The fabric has an overall tiny floral pattern. The bodice has full pagoda style sleeves that are trimmed with brown braiding. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating and is lined with cotton. The dress is in good as found condition. There is light underarm discoloration and the shoulders have stress wear. There is a 1½ inch repair on one shoulder and a tiny split on the front opening of the skirt. There are a couple of 1 inch splits along the edge of the back hemline and a few old period mends the largest being 6 inches. The reserve reflects the age flaws. A very pretty display dress. Bust 32 Waist 24 Skirt length 43 Width at hemline 136.

From Me:

What the seller said. :-)

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Remade in the 1860's 1850's Plaid dress

From the seller:

A stunning 1860’s brown plaid silk dress that has recently been de-accessioned from a museum collection. The dress till retains its original white cotton embroidered collar and under sleeves. The bodice has full pagoda style sleeves The sleeves have a puffed top and the hemline is trimmed with brown silk trim. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The silk covered buttons are decorative. The skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating and is lined with cotton. The dress is in very good condition. There is light underarm discoloration mostly to the inside lining. There is a 2 inch line soil mark at the back waist area and a few tiny splits in the puffed sleeve area. The embroidered collar has splitting at the back neckline. Bust 35 Waist 26 Skirt length 43 Width at hemline 152.

From Me:

You'll see that "random stuff" at the shoulder area before the bell shaped sleeve starting in the 1850's and it quickly dies out around 1861. However, the waistline on this is correct for the 1860's. So, my guess is we are dealing with another re-made.

"Eyes Right" - September 1860 Godey's Lady's Book

The gray dress in the Fashion plate - 1860 Godey's - has a similar sleeve treatment. After this, the sleeves with the upper arm treatment get tighter around the wrist. However, notice the waistline in this 1860 plate is pointed - something this dress isn't. In the 1860's (1861-1870, there wasn't a year zero) the waistline became less and less pointed and then started to move up. Once the 1870's hit, the waistline quickly went back to normal.

Hunger Games? No. 1980's? No. 1890's? Oh yes!

From the seller:

Stylish high Victorian dotted cotton summer travel outfit, dating to the 1890's. Dramatic oversized lapels, and large leg o mutton sleeves with cuffs, nice cut with shaping seams and long skirt to the jacket, single hook and eye closure with some fray here at the closure, see images. Back closing skirt, both pieces unlined. Overall excellent condition with a few light stains and couple small holes back of jacket. Chest measures 34", waist 26", sleeves 26", length of jacket 34". Waist on skirt 28", length 43".

From Me:

I shall like this outfit and call it "Dottie".

Lilac accented Edwardian Outfit

From the seller:

This auction is for a most exquisite antique late 1800's , early 1900's Victorian 2 piece dress which is a Museum de-accessioned piece with id tag 4792 . Gorgeous fabric combinations with touches of lilac silk , off white silk satin and mint green silk velvet incorporated with a lovely off white sheer fabric embroidered with lilac colored silk flowers.

The corset jacket features a beautiful lace collar. Matching black Chantilly lace inserts grace the jacket sleeves and upper back. Silk twist black ribbon trellis inserts adorn the bodice front and upper back shoulders. The bodice front features ruched ivories silk with draping mint green bands of silk velvet. Early hook and eye closure up the front. The bustle back skirt is of a matching embroidered fabric with a double lower ruffled flounce. Hook & eye closure in back with skirt supporters in place. Matching black floral Chantilly lace inserts are found just above the flounce. Tons of gathers in the rear to accomodate your wire cage bustle and hoop skirt. It is in exceptional condition for it's very early age but the corset jacket does need some restoration. The lining is comprised of both lilac silk and polished cotton. The silk is shattering and will need replacement. This also affects around the neckline so you will need to address this silk edging as well. The lace collar needs some stitching to mend where the large lace meets the fabric. Some of the lace will need restitching and a few have some slight net lace tears. Overall this is in amazing condition for it's age. Very little issues with staining....a light spot here or there. A gorgeous display piece if you are not handy. This elegant, genuine 1800's two piece ensemble measures as follows:

Bust: 32 inches

Waist: 20 inches

Underarm to sleeve end: 18 inches


Waist: 22 inches

Hips: full bustle back

Waist to lower hemline: 41 inches

From Me:

Not a bustle back at all. This is part of the s-curve phase. The pigeon front and lack of puff sleeves indicate a date from the 1900's. The "smart" looking collar and the overall styling are probably right around 1904. Very Edwardian.

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Regency Era Calash Bonnet

From the seller:

Offered for your consideration is an Rare Find.... An Antique Bashful Bonnet also know as Calash Bonnet. This was extremely popular for promenading or traveling. Green silk was the most popular fabric. The color has faded over the last 200 or so years which is to be expected. It measures 14" x 13" and is lined with silk to the 4th rib then stiffened gauze. The fashionable Calash Bonnet is said to have been designed by the Duchess of Devonshire in 1765 to protect the towering hairdos. It was collapisble and was usually made of silk or lined shirred over cane or whalebone supports. This bonnet is over cane. As shown, some of the cane supports are broken on the top of the bonnet. These bonnets were worn from about mid 1700's to early 1800's. Calashes are one of the only 18th century hats surviving today perhaps because they could be folded for storage. Price range IF YOU ARE ABLE TO FIND ONE OF THESE BONNETS are from $400 to $1,000 depending on condition. As shown in my pictures below, the condition is good considering the age. The top of the bonnet has tears in the silk. The Provenance is typed on one side and hand written on the other side dating back about 50 +years. It tells the story of the bonnet belonging to their Great Great Great Grandmother, Betsy Lappin who was born in 1778 and died in 1874 living until the age of 96. She and her husband came West to Ohio from Virginia in about 1800. It is so exciting to find a women's clothing article this old! Feel free to ask questions . There are no odors.

From Me:

What the seller said. :-)