Natural Form Era Cream and Gold Dress

From the seller:

Gorgeous luminous silvery white and figured gold brocade silk wedding/reception gown dating to the 1880s recently deaccessioned from major NYC museum. High style high quality made in what is probably French Lyon silk brocade with beautiful luster. Front button closure with lace and ruched trim, swag gathers on hips with extravagant long train and bustle, interior fully lined with tapes to bring train into gathers, train with deep dust ruffle and lace trimming. One piece with single button at the back waist, waist cincher with no labels. Beautiful basket weave silk satin at front of skirt with box pleats at hem. Needs some trims sewn back on, the side swag to be regathered and some lace reattached and the the front button hole panel needs to be resewn back in, all of these are on seams, no tears. Really quite excellent condition not dry no staining to speak off. Uncleaned as found. Rare opportunity to acquire high style costume of the period. Chest 32" waist 24" total length from shoulders 54" front with train a whopping 93".



From Me:

This is either just as Natural Form was coming in or as it was going out (either 1870's or 1880's but I'm leaning towards the 1870's).

However, the one question I have is did the lady who wore this ever sit down and play checkers on her lap?

Teen's Era Spring Coat

From the seller:

A magnificent 1915-1918 Edwardian pink silk coat. The label reads Madame Maroverite Stevens Building, Chicago. The coat has a wide two tone pink and white lame shawl collar and cuffs. The waist area is encircled with three rows of pleating. The back of the coat is decorated with tiny pink silk covered buttons. The coat is lined with yellow silk and has a one button and loop closure. The coat is in very good and wearable condition. There is no age discoloration just shadows created by the camera flash. There are no holes and no underarm discoloration. One of the tiny buttons on the back is missing the silk fabric. Shoulders 15 Bust 36 Length from shoulder to hem 43.

From Me:

My guess, based on where the waistline is, is that this is more 1911/1912. I really wouldn't put it later than 1913. However, it's fabulous and I needz it. I need it bad. ...Where is my brocade?

Late American Civil War Brown Stripe Dress

From the seller:

An exquisite 1860’s brown printed silk dress. The fabric has a line and dash pattern. The bodice has full pagoda styles sleeves that are trimmed with two tone brown silk. The sleeves have a short cap over sleeve. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The skirt is lined with cotton. The waistband and pleating have been removed from the top of the skirt. (See last photo.) The skirt has been tied onto the mannequin for display purposes. The dress is in very good condition. There are no holes or splits in the fabric. There is some very light underarm discoloration. Antique clothing is for display/collecting and should not be worn. Bust 34 Waist 26 Skirt length 43 Width at hemline 164.

From Me:

The pagoda sleeve was falling out of fashion by the end of the American Civil War but the waist seems a bit high for earlier than about 1864/1865.

Early 1920's Dress

From the seller:

This auction is for an original antique 1920's Beaded Flapper Dress / Tabard / Overdress. Handmade and handbeaded...one of a kind! It is made in the tabard style with open sides and is meant to be worn over another garment. The neck area has cutouts edged in bugle beads, that add interest to the bust and neckline. Measurements: Center back to hem--42 inches. Shoulders--15 1/2 inches. Widest point--21 inches. This tabard style will fit all shapes and sizes and can be worn over colored slips, pants and tops or evening gowns. The dress is in remarkable condition. There are a few loose threads and one small area of the hem on the side has come unstitched. The beading is amazing...actually stunning! Glass beads...most likely Austrian. Be sure to look at the photographs for the details. A real Great Gatsby confection...or something Lady Mary might be wearing at Downton!

I believe that the dress must have been made in France...the beading took some expertise and I can only imagine that some couture house did it. I inherited the garment from an eccentric relative and in her later years, during girl talk she spoke of trips to France and the continent. Her house was filled with French porcelains, artwork and bibelots. Filled is an understatement!


From Me:

I love the layout of the beading - very unique!

1870's Bustle Era Dress Created from an 1860's Dress

From the seller:

This auction is for a most exquisite antique dress, circa 1868 to around 1874. Three pieces comprise this ensemble...bodice jacket, underskirt and overskirt. The jacket is fully lined in polished cotton and features widely scalloped sleeves. There are 4 corset stays sewn within the basque. Button holes on jacket right with missing buttons on left. Left front seam needs restitching. You can actually see the black corset stay within this seam. It will only take a few neatly placed stitches to reclose the seam and tuck the stay inside. There is a water spot jacket left....this is the only stain found on this 3 piece dress. The underskirt features a wide pleated lower skirt with beautiful ruched panel front. Big bustle poof in rear...puffs it quite nicely as you can see. Hook and eye closure in back. This underskirt does need some restitching. The waistband needs retacking and some side seams need resewing. It appears complete. The skirt is beautifully lined and quite heavy. The lower dress hemline was protected from wear by a silk dust ruffle sewn on the skirt underside. The hemline is fine, but the dust ruffle shows wear. The third piece is the beautiful over-skirt with fine black lace hemline trim. Fully lined in polished cotton. There are buttonholes along inner waist, but I can fine no corresponding buttons on the dress. This is in pristine condition. I see no wear or tears in the silk...thank goodness for the expert lining job. With a bit of skilled sewing and some buttons, this late Civil War , early Victorian dress most certainly can be worn. It is your typical extra small size...the jacket would not close on my dressform. This exquisite piece of 1800's fashion history measures as follows:
Jacket
Bust: 30 inches
Waist: 23 inches
Underarm side seam: 8.5 inches
Underarm to sleeve end: 15 inches
Underskirt
Waist: 24 inches
Hips: full bustle back
Side seam: 40 inches

Just a most majestic antique dress for serious collectors of fine 1800's clothing.

From Me:

The skirt is too narrow for the late 1860's. This is very much an 1870's dress. It doesn't have a basque waist (I have no idea what the seller is talking about. It looks like they used words they didn't understand the meaning of) but the bodice looks like every single 1860's bodice ever. The skirt is probably remade from an 1860's skirt - there would be enough fabric. It's also not "corset stay", it's black whalebone stays most likely. A corset is a garment that uses stays to keep everything in place. Also, by the time this dress would have been worn in this style, the Civil War had been over for about a decade, Queen Victorian had been on the throne 30 years, and I have no idea why lining would keep silk from tearing.

Given the coloring, I think this might have been one of those bright blues or purples earlier in it's life. Those dyes faded quickly but the pink waistband and the black lace would look smashing against either the purple (lavender) or blue.