Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Turn of the Century Fancy Dress in Pink and Black








From the seller:

A stunning 1890’s pink satin brocade bodice and over skirt. The bodice is lavishly trimmed with black Chantilly lace and beading. The neckline is trimmed with pink silk pleated fringe. The sleeves are made of black lace and have a epaulette made of satin and trimmed with black lace. The bodice is lined and has a front hook and eye closure. The outer edges of the over skirt are trimmed with pink silk pleated trim. The under skirt is missing and was probably made of black lace. The bodice is in excellent condition. There are no holes and no underarm discoloration. The over skirt has a small area on the side that has small pea size holes. (See photo.). There is light soiling on the edge of the hemline. Bust 36 Waist 32 Overskirt length 58.

From Me:

1899 Fashion Plate via the Bartos Collection

The way the sleeves are are consistent with the Turn of the Century styles in the late 1890's/early 1900's.

1890's Sleeves of Doom Autumn Colored Dress













From the seller:

THIS IS A MAGNIFICENT RUST COLOR SILK VICTORIAN 1890s 2 PIECE DRESS.

IT HAS A HIGH NECK WITH A REMOVABLE COTTON LACE STAYED NECK PIECE, MOSS GREEN VELVET BODICE TRIMMED IN BLACK JET BEADS AND COTTON LACE.

THE BODICE FASTENS WITH HOOKS AND EYES.

THE DRESS HAS HUGE LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVES WITH VELVET CUFFS.

THE TOP IS LINED IN A LIGHTWEIGHT COTTON.

THERE IS A WAIST BAND INSIDE WITH THE DRESSMAKER'S NAME: (I THINK IT READS:)

HURAULT

WEST 30TH STREET, NY



GOOD CONDITION - GOOD CONDITION - A SMALL TEAR INSIDE THE VELVET FRONT BODICE (PHOTO), PERIOD MEND IN THE SAME AREA (PHOTO), WEAR ON THE EDGE OF THE HEM ON BOTTOM OF SKIRT. TINY TEAR ON BACK NEAR NECKLINE (PHOTO). SOME BEAD LOSS.

THE DRESS IS A SMALL SIZE - POSSIBLY EQUIVALENT TO A SIZE 4.

MEASURES:

BODICE -

NECK - 14 1/2"

BUST - 33"

WAIST - 26 1/2"

SLEEVE - 22

SHOULDER TO SHOULDER - 13"

SKIRT -

WAIST - 27"

WAIST TO HEM - 41"


From Me:

1894 Fashion Plate via the Bartos Collection

Not that you'd think it was anything other than mid 1890's with those sleeves but, ya know...

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

1860's Embroidered Petticoat






From the seller:

A Civil War era 1860’s cotton embroidered petticoat that has been de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical Society Museum collection. The cataloging tag is stitched inside the waist band. The lower part of the petticoat is embroidered with a white figural pattern, intermingled with rows of pin tucking. The waist has tight cartridge pleating and a tie closure back. The petticoat is in very good and sturdy condition. There are a few small age spots but nothing major. Waist 28 Length 40.

From Me:

Lots and lots of pin tucks. At least, by this point, they had a sewing machine to do that! Based on where the pleating is, my guess is more to the middle of the 1860's.

Monday, January 4, 2016

Early Bustle Era Embroidered Dress









From the seller:

A sweet 1880’s white cotton bodice and bustle over skirt. The bodice is trimmed with brown braiding. The front is decorated with three bows that are outlined with brown braiding. The bodice is unlined and has a front hook and loop closure. The bustle overskirt is also trimmed with brown braiding on the edge of the hemline. The over skirt is unlined. Both garments are in excellent and sturdy condition. There are no holes and no age spots. There is a small area of loose braiding on the back of the skirt that will need minor re-stitching and wear to the braiding in this same area. Bust 32 Waist 26.

From Me:

I have no idea why the seller thinks this is 1880's. The bodice and sleeve shape are still very 1860's.

1870 Fashion Plate via the Bartos Collection

The above is from 1870 and it's not hard to see the similarities in the extant dress and the white and black ensemble. For that reason, I'm putting this in the 1860's. (Remember, there is no year 0. Decades go from 1-10.)

1860's Sheer Print Dress








From the seller:

A gossamer 1860’s Civil War era floral print muslin dress. The fabric has a pink and lilac floral spray pattern. The outer edges of the sleeves have a double ruffled trim. The bodice is lined with a white linen camisole that is trimmed with white eyelet. The camisole has a front hook and eye closure. The shoulders, armscyes and waist are piped. The skirt is unlined and has a back seep. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There is no underarm discoloration. There are a couple of pencil tip size holes in the bodice and one small area on the back of the skirt has small pea size holes and age spots. Bust 34 Waist 24 ½ Front skirt length 41 Back length 49 Width at hemline 150.

From Me:

Probably about 1864/1865.

1865 Fashion Plate Via the Bartos Collection

The sleeves on the pale yellow dress in the fashion plate have the trim going up the back of the sleeve just as this extant dress has. I've seen it earlier but I couldn't find a clear picture of it. The overall shape and design is consistent with the late American Civil War period.

Friday, January 1, 2016

Happy New Year!!!









From the seller:

A vividly printed 1860’s Civil War era challis dress. The fabric has a large white and burgundy floral print centered in a hunter green box. The background color is burgundy. The pattern is laid out in a stripe design. The bodice has full pagoda styled sleeves and a short cap over sleeve. The sleeves are decorated with black and green velvet trim. The front of the bodice is pleated with piping over the bust area. The neck and armscyes are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a back hook and eye closure. The skirt is unlined. The skirt hemline has been turned up and there is a small section of missing fabric is this area. (See last photo.) This does not affect the dress when displayed. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There are a few small scattered holes in the skirt. There is no underarm discoloration. Bust 30 Waist 22 Skirt length 38.

From Me:

It's 1860's but it has a lot of elements that are older as well. The sleeves are 1850's. The dress print looks 1840's.  This dress has been many things in it's life.  Also, the skirt seems a bit on the shorter side - it may have been for a teen or a petite woman.