Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Grad School is OVER!!!!!!!!!!1

To celebrate finally FINALLY being able to do something other than wake up, go to work, sit in front of a computer, come home, sit in front of the laptop, go to bed, repeat - I went to Ireland.   :-)   On Saint Patrick's Day weekend.  Because if there is anything I need after this semester, it's a good drink and good music.   Ireland, thankfully, has both!

While in Dublin on Monday, I saw that one of the lesser known museums, the Little Museum of Dublin had a fashion display going on.  It was on Irish fashion designers of the 1950's through the 1970's.  Although that's later than I'd normally do on this blog, I figured it would be an excellent gateway back into actually blogging - and not writing 20 page papers on malware.


The museum is all about Ireland's transformation in the 20th Century.   It goes through Ireland's time as a part of the UK, the Easter Rebellion, and the Troubles with a focus on the earlier 20th century.   However, the exhibit "Ireland's Fashion Radicals" goes into the emerging fashion designs from the post War era.
   
This lovely 1950's suit is the first garment to greet you into the exhibit.  I'm sorry I didn't get all the names of the designers - me being me, I was more fascinated by the cuts and the weaves of the garments.   This gingham blue outfit has a lovely waistcoat, blazer, and narrow skirt for the era.  
Back of the same outfit.  Notice the center seam
Really, there were a lot of 1960's outfits in the exhibit but I loved this coat!   The orange ties at the sides are pretty simple but the off center opening was VERY popular in the 1960's.  I also just love the bright, sunny color.
To me, this other coat looks drab in comparison
See?  Ties!!!   Okay, you can also see the seam lines which I was attempting to get a good photo off.  There is a breast dart/cut along the princess like seams on the sides of the coat to give it a nice shape overall.  Still...TIES!!!
All these garments were also 1950's and 1960's.  The red skirt is quilted but it's the gray skirt and shirt I fell in love with.  
Close up of the quilting
1960 House Dress by Sybil Connelly
The point at which I realized "I might want to remember some of the designer names"
Close up of the embroidery and lace details on the gray skirt.  The center medallions are lace and the embroidery weaves back and forth around them.  
Close up of the blouse that was paired with the gray skirt.
Close up of the bottom of the embroidery on the gray skirt.  Did I mention how much I love this?

Next was the exhibit case.  Inside were examples of tweed, string, and fabric swatches.  I guess they kept it locked up because Ireland heard I was coming and I would play with the fibers....

Then there were the ball gowns.  The red one I really liked because it was so weird.   It took some elements of the 1930's and put them on a late 1940's gown.  It laces up the front and has those crazy ruffled sleeves.   It was one of the more interesting pieces.  
Really, this is the front of the gown.  I double checked.
Close up of the sleeve detail
Waistline and pleat detail.  The skirt is separate as you can see the waistband under the bodice.
Close up of the hem of the red dress from 1948.
The other two dresses.  The gray and gold was lovely but pretty typical for 1950's evening fashion.  The black and blue had a lovely floral embroidery detail all over the skirt.
Floral embroidery
Back of the black and blue gown
Bodice of the black and blue gown
It's the pleats that really make this dress special and different from most 1950's evening gown designs.  
All three evening gowns were designed by Irene Gilbert.
This dress was interesting.   It reminds me of the later 1970's "prairie" styles but it's still clearly late 1960's.   The skirt looked very harsh and heavy even in person but the bodice seemed lighter even though both were clearly the same material.
Close up of the bodice.
Bodice Back

The second half of the room was pretty much devoted to the late 1960's/into the 1970's.   The leftmost floral dress?  I LOVE it.   Wait until you see the close ups of that beauty.   
One of the many exhibit photos on the walls.
Late 1960's outfit.  What was interesting about this one is the sleeves.  They fall at 3/4 length but are actually open at the elbow down.
Close up of the embroidery on the jacket.
Close up of the sleeve
Behold!  The fur of the marabou!  :-)   Pretty standard late 1960's/early 1970's evening gown.  Really, this almost looks like something that would have been worn on the original Star Trek.  Still, I really love the elongated sleeves and the flow of the material.  Wait until you see the back of this gown.  
Cuff detail
This was so completely amazing to behold.  Pictures don't do it justice.   The fabric appears to be painted and the various cuts of the fabric make you realize this isn't as simple as it looks at first.  
Curved cut to a v-front on the upper bust of the gown.
Zipper and back curved cut
Sleeve and slanted cut along the hip towards the middle front and back
Dropped v-cut in the center front
Pretty normal 1970's tweed coat except for the fabulous book of kells inspired patterns
Close up of the patterns
Maxi skirt time!   Okay, so I'm a sucker for pink and green together.  Really, green and pretty much every other color.   Green is not my favorite color but I love it paired with other colors.  
The mid-drift top appears to be crocheted.  There weren't any visible seams.
The maxi skirt consisted of a patchwork of green and pink cotton (?) with pink and green ribbons, run through lace, covering the seams.
Close up of the back shoulder of the mid-drift top
Back of the maxi skirt
There was no good way to get a good photo of this outfit due to the lighting.  The maxi skirt is a lighter purple with faded pink and black flowers.
It's the top that really makes this outfit.   The crochet on this was just fabulous.
Close up of the maxi skirt embroidery.
The back of the outfit.  Ignore the color - I was trying to get a good detail of the back buttons on the blouse.  Thankfully, that came out!
1980's cocktail dress.
1970's knitted garments.   There is a part of me that loves the pink knit pants and there is a far greater part of me that hopes this is never in style again.
Crop top in purple
Knitted striped tunic with matching knit pants
Sparkly pink knit pants
Okay, I've got admit the basketweave knit is pretty cool but....ugh....
Back of the striped knit tunic
I admit, I'd probably wear the purple crop top if I thought I could get away with it.  I love the pearl button detail!
And back to the fur of the marabou!!!!  (Yes, I know it's feathers)   The back of the dress is way more interesting than the front.   The dipped back with the gathers must have made this seem airy as it moved.  
I realized I didn't get a good photo of the back of the red suit at the start of the exhibit.  
The seams on the jacket and the skirt match.  That alone takes talent.
The nice thing about this late 1950's/early 1960's swing coat is the back detail.  It's very similar to some late 16th Century designs.  
More on the airy burgundy dress - I wanted to show the piecing.
...And that even the exhibitors couldn't zip it up...


I hope everyone enjoyed the photos!   I know it's a lot later than I'd normally share and also breaks the no museum rule but this was such an interesting exhibit that I thought everyone might want to see some of the garments.  Plus, grad school is over - I'm breaking all the rules!!!!

Friday, February 2, 2018

What to wear in case of six more weeks of winter..






From the seller:

PLUS SIZE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN-EDWARDIAN PERIOD HOODED LIGHT YELLOW SILK VELVET BROCADE OPERA COAT

THREE EXCEPTIONAL LARGE SILK HEAVY TASSELS ATTACHED TO THE HOOD

EXTERIOR VELVET BROCADE IN VERY GOOD CONDITION WITH A FEW TINY HOLES

HEAVY SILK SATIN LINING IS STARTING TO WEAKEN AND THERE IS SOME SHREDDING

SHEEPSKIN COLLAR BACKING IS STARTING TO WEAKEN ON COLLAR EDGE

PLUS SIZE 22-24+

46+ BUST

49 INCH LENGTH

18 INCHES SHOULDER TO SHOULDER SEAMS

24 INCHES CUFF TO SHOULDER SEAM

34 INCH SLEEVES CUFF TO CENTER COLLAR ALONG THE OUTER EDGE

CODE 0035


From Me:

This isn't really "plus sized". It is a bit larger but maybe a modern size 10 or 12 in US sizes? It was meant to be very bulky. It's most likely from the early teens. They were still big into tassles but they also loved a bit of fur or feathers around the cuffs.
1912 Fashion Plate

1911 Coat at the Museum of London

Thursday, February 1, 2018

Gorgeous 1870's Early Natural Form Dress with Paisley Print
















From the seller:

1870's PROMENADE BUSTLED 1-PIECE GOWN WITH TRAIN MUSEUM DEACCESSIONED


This is an attractive summer promenade gown or tea dress of the 1870's period, that a mid to upper class woman would wear. A regal off white light weight sheer organdies 1 PIECE bustled gown with small paisley boteh motif prints.

Recently de-accessioned from the Rochester historical museum in New York state. The gown still retains it's original Museum ID string catalog tags, sewn on tags, as well as written into fabric ID catalog number.

I was certain that this gown would be worthy of a designer label, but it does not have a label.



The front of this gown is decorated with fancy pleated net lace trimmed stand up collar and accented with a satin bows down the front opening. The bodice has fabric covered button front closure. One top button has fabric loss. The cuffs are also are decorated with fancy net lace and satin ribbon bows. Both sides of the front opening has vertical pleating adorned with wide fancy machine lace. Pipping is found around top of shoulder arms, and down both sides of front closure.



The whole gown is lined with a off white organdy. No stays. The sleeves have a slight curve and tapering at the elbow.

The inner skirt lining closes by a hook and loop and has many ties to adjust the bustle effect.

The back gathers with fullness of material for a bustled effect and continues downward for a nice fall. The rear puff enhances the outfit nicely. The skirt is in very good condition.

Condition: The gown is in very good condition. Inside lining of bodice is very good, no underarm staining or discoloration. Any blue discoloration on dress and folds are camera flash distortions of color. Skirt has no pin holes or damage anywhere. Some lace detachment on stand up collar. A brown stain on bodice, chest area. Seams have been taken out under arms, down sides to waist area, and back area. Slight musty odor. A truly grand display gown for study.

MEASUREMENTS:

Bust 34",

Waist 25' - 26",

Sleeve Length 20" + lace.

Front Shoulder to hem 52-1/2",

Back neck line to hem 68",

Across shoulder 13"




Condition: The gown is in very good condition.

A truly grand display dress/gown for study or for display.

Antique clothing should not be worn.



From Me:

1876 Fashion Plate
1876 Fashion Plate
1876 Fashion Plate

So...the reasons I think it's from about 1876 - the collar style is from about then.  You can see a similar one in the last fashion plate.  The ribbons down the front were a huge fashion thing in the 1870s - you can see a similar style in the first fashion plate.  The way the skirt fits over the hips is more natural form and the fullness at the bottom of the skirt matches with the early natural form styles.