Friday, November 27, 2015

Purple Velvet Natural Form Era Dress










From the seller:

1880's Purple Velvet & Black Silk Bustle Gown: The bodice of the bustle gown is made of a deep purple cotton velvet. It has a bust of 32”, a waist of 23” and shoulders of 12.75” across. There is only one original purple velvet buttons on the bodice. The other buttons are a mixture of different black buttons. The velvet has age related wear, is totally lined in brown cotton and has a small area of the seam where the double tails begin that needs a few stitches to repair a small tear. The button placket is lined in purple silk and much of it has worn off. This is okay because the entire bodice is lined in brown cotton and it is in good shape. The wear to the inner silk does not show when it is on a body. The tails of the bodice are also lined in the purple silk and the left tail has some loss of purple silk. It doesn't show when the bodice is on a form. An inch of the collar has been taken up and can be put back. The skirt has a waist of 24” and a length of 40.5”. The skirt has numerous splits in the swags and scattered holes throughout. It is totally lined in brown cotton which helps hold it together. It is missing the button off of the waist band. With all of its problems it still presents very well.

From Me:

The skirt is black silk, the seller just lightened the photos to show off the details like the fringe of awesomeness.
May 1880 Fashion plate 1880 Fashion Plate

The way the bodice is cut - straight across the hips with no curve- keeps it in the 1870's rather than the later 1880's.   In 1880, the last year of the 1870's decade (there was no year 0, decades are counted 1-10), the slight curve over the hips, shown in the pink dress in the first fashion plate started to become a fad.   However, the straight across the hips, as shown in the outfit right next to it, was still a thing for a few more months.  This would go away completely from the fashion plates in just a year.  The high neckline started to become vogue at this point as well.

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Teen's Era Blouse and Petticoat












From the seller:

Antique prairie skirt and blouse recently found at a 19th century Maine farmhouse. This handmade beauty is made of delicate thin ivory colored cotton fabric trimmed in detailed lace. The long sleeve blouse is a pullover and has a lace trimmed ruffle down the front. The 2 layer tea length skirt has stunning lace patterns and button closure at waist. Considering how old this is, it is in remarkable condition but not perfect. Skirt has a few rust stains on the outer skirt and a few tiny holes underneath. The blouse has a few missing pearl buttons. It is in clean condition with no odors. Measurements laying flat are as follows:

Armpit to armpit-19"
Across shoulders-17"
Sleeve length-25"
Blouse length-23"
Waist-13"
Hips-free
Skirt length-32".

Sure to please anyone that wears this rare beauty.


From Me:

We do not wear antique clothing.

Anyway, this is a teen's era blouse and petticoat - they may have been worn together but there needs to be a skirt to go over the petticoat. Also, the petticoat- if anyone else has twenty million handkerchiefs lying around because they were going to do bunting and ended up not doing the project *cough*- just cut the handkerchiefs in half and put lace between the edges - you suddenly have something similar to the bottom of this petticoat. Yay!

There is a vaguely similar shirtwaist at the Met and in the fashion plate below from 1917.

Tuesday, November 24, 2015

American Civil War Era Blue Plaid Dress









From the seller:

A beautiful 1860’s royal blue and silver plaid silk dress that has been de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical Society Museum collection. The bodice has double tiered pagoda styled sleeves that are trimmed with royal blue silk fringe. The front opening is decorated with royal blue silk ball trim. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The skirt is attached to the bodice with cartridge pleating. The skirt is fully lined with cotton. The dress is in very good condition. There is mild underarm discoloration, small splits near the armscyes and the front opening has a ½ inch split and two ½ inch period mends. There is no discoloration just shadows created by the camera flash. A charming display dress. Bust 32 Waist 22 Skirt length 41 Width at hemline 139.

From Me:

1864 Fashion Plate
1864 Fashion Plate

By 1864 the Pagoda sleeves that had dominated since the 1850s were finally fading out of existence, but there were a few last gasps. What I love about this gown is the lady who made it carefully placed the trim to hide how she pieced the sleeves together. The straight - no point in front- waist indicates the later date.

Simple but Lovely Edwardian Dress













From the seller:

This auction is for a most interesting gown from the Edwardian period. It is made of a sort of peachy-tan cotton gauze with slubs. The fabric has a wonderful feel and drape. It is trimmed with mother of pearl buttons. The skirt is full, constructed with gathers set into structural tabs. The bodice features the a low neckline, perfect for a high-collared chemisette and long bishop sleeves with elegant little cuffs- again, note the original mother of pearl buttons! The pigeon front is held in place with straps.

Condition: Structurally sturdy. There is some light discoloration which may clean out and a small hole or two. No closures. Wearable with care. Please see photos.

Measurements are: The bust is about 42 inches (it should be loose and full) & the waist is 23.5 inches; The front length from the waist is 40 inches.


From Me:

I'm curious if it's really cotton or if it's linen. It looks like linen to me.  The longer sleeves with what is clearly a summer dress means it's most likely earlier in the Edwardian time line than later.  I'm putting it at about 1904.

18th Century Stays and Jacket












From the seller:

Circa late 18THC, a rare matching European silk corset or stays and bodice ensemble. In mainly very good condition, some scattered fraying and loss on light blue silk ribbon,some wear on underam jacket and under arms on stays, Overall MINOR….as this ensemble is in quite amazing condition for it’s age.Silk Damask is good and strong.Part of a museum deaccession.

From Me:

This was originally sold by Whitaker. You can see that auction here. Below are the photos and the details from that one.

LOT 497 BODICE and CORSET ENSEMBLE, EUROPEAN, LATE 18th - EARLY 19th C.
Cranberry silk faille with polychrome floral brocade, the square-neck bodice having folded front collar, narrow double breast and short sleeve with pleated and pointed cuff, peplum back. Corset front pieced with cranberry brocade and a tan dotted sawtooth stripe, the back in a similar dotted stripe. Both pieces trimmed in aqua ribbon and lined in linen. Bodice B-36, W-26, front L-17. (Losses to ribbon, some edge wear) very good. MMA. $720





I love the stays so much. I've seen a few examples of stays with only the front decorated - particularly in French museums (I tried to search but the search engine was being finicky and despite putting in 18e siècle, it insisted on showing me 20th century items.). Given the shape of the jacket, just a little bit of a tail but perfectly straight across the front and that flappy collar thing, this is either late 1780's or early 1790's.  It's probably why it survived so beautifully - it was created right before the big transition into Regency.