Wednesday, November 6, 2013

1880's White Bustle Dress











From the seller:

Period : 1870's - 1880's
*Label : none found
*Style : 2 piece dress
*Fabric : ?
*Color : Ivory
*Size : no size tag- Actual measurements below...

DESCRIPTION:

*This is an antique dress, another from the Sycamore estate of the grandson of a Civil War General, Everell Fletcher Dutton. One of the most promininent wealthy families from the area. He was a member of the 13th Illinois Volunteer Infantry, later commissioned a Major in the 105th Illinois Volunteer Infantry where he was ultimately promoted to the rank of General. This dress we believe belonged to his wife, Rosina Adelpha Paine Dutton. In April 2014 the Sycamore Historical Museum will have an exhibit devoted to General Dutton and his life and times and how he shaped Sycamore, Illinois.

This is a 2 piece dress. Fabric feels rough almost like a muslin? or wool? The skirt has layers with a Greek Key edge and inside a strap at the back for a bustle. Many small buttons (I believe to be whistle buttons) on the bodice with a blouse insert that covers the buttons. Bow in back lower bodice and lace trim on cuffs and around the front opening.

The back of the skirt closes with a 2 button flap (one button missing). The bodice top was smaller than my dress form could accommodate so we photo'd it flat to show the bodice front, and back and inside. This dress did not fair very well in storage, it has much soiling.

Most of the dresses from this estate were in very good condition for their age, this one has soiling. We observed the following: r. sleeve lace at cuff torn - lace on neck not attached on l. side? not sure if it is supposed to be? - lace is darkened from age - hole in r. shoulder (has a lining under it) - no buttons on bodice missing - skirt has spots and some small holes - both have odor - 1 ruffle has
a tear in pleat - spots on shoulders/sleeves - there are stains or dirt marks on the skirt. Please see our other listings for more clothing from this estate.



Any questions email as I do not take returns on used clothing.

All our items are from estates or collections and we present them as found, as is.











Fabric Measurements...

taken with item flat, double for full measurements

except for length and shoulders


Bodice Chest: 16" armpit to armpit

Bodice Waist: 11"

Skirt Waist: 11 1/2"



From Me:

Bum bow!!!! 1880's. :-)

Natural Form Green Bodice







From the seller:


LOVELY green Victorian top blouse -beaded. Inside is just as interesting as the outside! Beads and buttons missing..it is soiled.





Bust 29"

Waist: 22"

Length; 17'-18"







From Me:

Due to the lack of bustle in the back, but the wide cuffs on the sleeves, I think this is late 1870's.

Mid 1860's Sheer cotton wrapper/dress





From the seller:

This antique Victorian Civil War era brown and white stripe print cotton batiste hoop skirt dress dates from the 1860s. It is hand stitched, made of an off white sheer fine cotton batiste fabric, with a reddish brown striped pattern design roller print. This summer afternoon dress has a white cotton pleated lace trim collar, open front with no closure, long tapered sleeves, a fitted waistband, long full hoop skirt and is unlined. The dress measures 58 inches long, with a 24 inch waist and 34 inch bust. It is in as-is fair condition, has not been cleaned with some faint age spotting stains, several small frayed holes and mends (see close-up). This is still a wonderful piece of Civil War era antique Victoriana textile art!

From Me:

The way the waist is done is interesting. I'd say this could be anywhere from the tail end of the American Civil war to about 1867.

Teens Era Blue Dress









From the seller:

BLUE SILK & LACE TITANIC 1912 EDWARDIAN DRESS, FINE CONDITION!
Wearable size and condition for those who want to actually wear garments for events and re-enactments.

Wow! What a stunning dress -- lovely styling! This Titanic Era, 1912 dress is sure to be a head-turner wherever it makes an appearance!

The blue on this dress is a rich blue, nearly to turquoise in hue, a warm sky blue I would call it. The dress has three kinds of lace, I think the beautiful open work lace is called Alencon, (on collar and sleeves) and there is also fine netted lace in the high neck and chest area. The third kind of lace is also a silk fine lace with a zig zag edging, gathered along the bottom of each sleeve. Note the darling set of 6 blue silk bows coming down the front of the bodice and there is a set of 4 such bows on each lovely sleeve.

The overlayer of silk in the skirt area comes down to a point in the center front, and a softer point in center back. Layers in the skirt are a definite style point signaling the year,1912.

I have taken photos of every area of the dress, so you can see all the details.

Here are the measurements, and please note these are ACTUAL measurements done with a tape measure around the mannequin body, (not laid flat and then doubled, as most ebayers measure). These measurements are not guaranteed to be absolutely precise, but are taken softly while the dress is on the body, so you may know these are meaningful, bankable measurements. They cannot be LESS than I am stating here.

Shoulder to shoulder seam in back, 13 3/4
Shoulder to shoulder seam in front, 14 3/8

Bust 36

Waist (taken at the slightly higher than actual waist waistband) 29

Length (from top of neck seam, not the top of the high neck) to bottom in back, 56

The high neck measures 14 1/2 around the seam. (if you don't like a high neck, you could remove the fine lace and make a square neckline in front, which would also be pretty.)

I would say that this dress, therefore, is a Size 8.

The armpits are in clean, non-stained condition.

To fasten the dress, it has hooks and eyes going from the center high neck in back, down the left shoulder and under left side of the collar area, to the waist area. (When I say left -- I mean while wearing the dress) Note that I have photographed that one hook and eye should be put on to make the waistband sit right and not show the under seam, as seen in the photo (under the left breast area).

There is no label inside this dress. As with the majority of ladies' dresses at this time in history, clothing was made for the woman specifically, by a seamstress, not store-bought.

Flaws: I have taken photos of the very slight flaws. There are a few light tan stains on the back of the dress, on the left. There is a tiny tear and discoloration at the front right shoulder seam area, but covered by the fullness of the bodice, as it does softly gather in that area, over the seam. There is an abrasion to the silk in front, around the thigh area (note between my fingertips) There is a tiny hole in the silk underlayer right beneath the upper layer, which I didn't photograph, didn't notice it until now. All these flaws are minimal, they will not be noticeable when being worn, I mention them for accuracy.

As you probably know, Edwardian dresses are considered RARE. At the time of James Cameron's making of Titanic in 1996, their wardrobe head swept the country clean of all 1912 era clothing. They called me too, asking if I had any; they called every dealer in vintage clothing all across the country. Sad to say, while this era clothing was already in short supply, because the styles changed rapidly at WW1 time, they really made it extremely rare. All those garments were either destroyed by being worn in the movie, being taken apart and remade by the wardrobe dept., or are hanging rotting on hangers in a warehouse, that is the sad final outcome of such a precious commodity. It is unfortunate they swept up all the 1912 clothing they could find, both women's and men's, making genuine garments truly difficult to find. I can state this as fact, because I've been a dealer in vintage for 27 years, and a collector of specifically 1912 garments for 30 years, which I wear to the Somewhere in Time Weekends at Grand Hotel, the annual events that celebrate the cult classic movie starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour...considered by its fans to be The Most Romantic Love Story Ever Filmed. Fans of this movie believe Cameron stole his entire love story from Somewhere in Time, as the key elements from SIT are all there...but that is another story, and to be found on the Somewhere in Time Website (Articles section).


From Me:

Probably about 1914 or so.

American Civil War Era Gold/Brown Dress



From the seller:

1850s Gold Silk Gown, Pagoda Sleeves, beautiful

1850s gold silk gown, has pagoda sleeves. Has 12 small buttons, 5 are missing. Has discoloration underarms, check photo. Other than that excellent condtion. It is stunning. Please check out my EBAY Store, covi's vintage cave. I do combined shipping.


From Me:

This is why you sell with your computer, not your cell phone.

Anyway, based on the waistline, I'd say 1860's. The pagoda sleeves were popular until right after the Civil War.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

1840's dress reworked later








From the seller:

An exquisite 1850-1860 ivory satin brocade ball gown dress that has recently been de-accessioned from a museum collection. The cataloging tag is stitched inside the bodice.. The fabric has a leaf and tiny floral pattern. The fabric has a changeable quality depending on the light reflection. The bodice has short puffed sleeves. The neck and armscyes are piped. It is lined with cotton and has a back hook and eye closure. The skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating. There is an area around the waist that is made of solid colored satin fabric. The dress was probably originally worn with a peplum style belt that would have covered this area. The skirt is fully lined with cotton. The dress is in very good condition. There is some very slight underarm discoloration, a nickel size age spot on the front of the bodice that is very light in color and a small area on the lower skirt front that has several dime size age spots and one quarter size age spot . A magnificent display dress. Bust 30 Waist 23 Skirt length 40 Width at hemline 136.

From Me:

I believe this was an 1840's gown that was taken apart, shortened, and sewn back together. You can see a similar cut 1840's gown in the fashion plate below.


The main difference between the two is that the bodice is shorter. This would make sense for a poorer lady during the 1850's - hence no change in the skirt either. The fabric is also one that was popular during the 1840's - changeable gold colored fabrics were sort of the "little black dress" of the 1840's.

Young Miss Bustle Era Dress
















From the seller:

Description. A glorious original Victorian late 1870s tearly 1880s 3 piece gown; styled in a luscious shade of deep wine silk taffeta and very lovely cut velvet on the front of bodice and long tapered sleeves. Decorated with superbly hand created gold tone embroidered / crewel floral bouquets. The curiass shaped bodice has back button closure, these button are created in a gold filigree backed marcasite clusters; all buttons are present. The middle layer that is similar to a slip is something that I have never seen (I have sold at least 400 19th C gowns in the past 10 yrs); it is created with the top being cotton buckram and the bottom matching embroidered wine silk. It needs to be put it on over the skirt and then under the jacket it lays beautifully with exhibiting more embroidery. The wonderful voluminous front and very full bustled back skirt is created with layers of pleats and more gorgeous embroidery. Overall all three pieces are in very good very sturdy condition and the only part that needs some attention of best being replaced is the under / hidden buckram areas on the slip and back skirt panel. With being modeled on a mannequin that is an extra small, size 00; It is quite small and I suspect with the back closure it is most likely a late teenagers dress for the autumn to winter season. Approx measurements are 30" bust with a 19" waist;the skirt is 36" length. Truly a stunning example of a well to do young woman's gown.


From Me:

I think it's late 1880's based on the style. Very cool young miss dress.