Saturday, May 27, 2017

Late Victorian Yellow and Black Bodice with Star of David (?) Buttons


From the seller:

Vintage Victorian Edwardian Bodice ORNATE Fancy VGC XS Lace  DETAILS

Yellow satin trim with black lace to front bodice and lapel/collar piece; yellow satin with ruffles to cuffs
pleated bib with black lace bow/boning, standing collar
3 goldtone steel cut buttons
Bust 32"
Shoulder width 12"
Sleeves 24"
Length 15"
  Waist 22"


From Me:

I'm very curious if the Star of David was intentional or if it was just a design element. It would be very cool if it was intentional rather than just a pretty design. I don't think there is really a way to find out without any idea of the provenance of the item.

1899 Fashion Plate

Looking at the sleeves of the extant bodice, there appears to be a slight amount of "puff" to the sleeves still - popular in the Turn of the Century. My guess is about 1899 or so.

Liberty of London Embroidered Purple Dress













From the seller:

A rare Liberty & Co aesthetic afternoon dress, ca. 1908. Woven yellow on white silk label “Liberty & Co, London & Paris”. Made of aubergine coloured velvet. Embroidered with Japanese inspired raised-work roses in shades of mauve and grey. Long velvet and lace sleeves. Entredeux lace in the chest area. High collar. Trained Skirt. Good to very good condition. Inner white silk bodice lining is generally good condition, but white gauze has been later added to the upper and closure edges for extra strength and protection. The skirt waist has been let out and near matching modern fabric has been added at the side closure. More velvet has been added below the waistline to enlarge the hips. The decoration is not included.
The London store Liberty & Co was founded by Arthur Lasenby Liberty (1843-1917) in 1875. The shop specialized in selling ornaments, fabric and objects from Japan and the Far East. The Liberty department store was crucial in introducing and popularising Japanese arts and crafts in the West and was an enormous influence on British artists and designers. The company became synonymous with this new style, at the end of the 19th century, to the extent that in Italy, Art Nouveau became known as Stile Liberty after the London shop.
Arthur Lasenby Liberty was born in Chesham, Buckinghamshire in 1843. He was employed at Messrs Farmer and Rogers in Regent Street in 1862, the year of the International Exhibition at Kensington in London. By 1874, inspired by his 10 years of service, Arthur then decided to start a business of his own, believing that he could change the look of home wares and fashion.
With a £2000 loan from his future father-in-law, Arthur Liberty took on the lease of half a shop at 218a Regent Street with only three staff. Within eighteen months he had repaid the loan and acquired the second half of 218 Regent Street. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic, and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement.
In the 1890s Arthur Lasenby Liberty built strong relationships with many leading English designers and studios such as Arthur Silver and the ‘Silver Studio’ Many of these designers were key figures in the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements and Arthur Liberty was instrumental in the development of British Art Nouveau through his encouragement of such designers. The store became one of the most prestigious in London.
Waist: ~ 66 cm
Bust: ~ 85 cm
Front Length: ~ 135 cm
Back Length: ~ 175 cm


From Me:

This one confused me until I realize that this is a lot more than the crazy modern fabric added to the backside.
Liveauctioneers

Someone "redesigned" it to fit them using both antique and modern pieces - probably to wear it as a costume. /facepalm

So, they ruined not only the colors, but they cut up a LIBERTY gown and put in a mismatch of bum fabric that makes no sense and added lacy sleeves and a blouse top because they were #terriblepeople! Yes, let's desecrate all the old things and change them to what we want now, now, now, because...me! Yeah, I'm not a fan of this whole "me" culture. I look to these little things called consequences and the consequences of tearing a part an antique gown like this is that you've now caused it to disintegrate more quickly, caused the colors to fade a great deal, and now, it's worth not even a fraction of what it was worth. Thanks ever so much. /s

The original way this was designed, the Liberty gown was probably closure to the liveauctioneers date of 1910. The kimono sleeves were very popular starting in the late Edwardian, early Teen's era.


Late Edwardian Coat


From the seller:

Couture quality Belle Epoque late 19thc silk and velvet beaded and spangled long coat. Decorated bolero across the top of coat that is beaded in bow designs with sparkling metal spangles and paste metal buttons. The silk taffeta in the body of coat alternates with silk velvet strips. High lace trimmed neckline, closes in front with hook and eye, knife pleat chiffon on interior edge, lined in cream colored satin, bell shaped sleeves . No labels but probaly a  French couture item. In very good antique condition but no perfect. With wear and breaks to lining at back of neck and armholes, missing spangles at top of coat, otherwise very good.   Chest 34", length 49", sleeves 23", shoulder to shoulder at the back is 14".

From Me:
1906 Fashion Plate
1908 Liberty of London Fashion Plate


I believe the coat is about the same time as these two or even a little later. The lines of the extant coat are almost to the "teens" era style with the more fitted waist but this one still has the high neck which was more fashionable still in the Edwardian era. So, most likely, it's a transition piece.

Sunday, May 21, 2017

Stunning Edwardian Wedding Dress













From the seller:

Dieses Nachmittags- oder Empfangskleid ist ein Traum aus Battenburg-Spitze, Seide, Tüll und Dekorations-Quasten. Hergestellt und getragen wurde das zweiteilige antike Kleid um das Jahr 1904 in den Vereinigten Staaten. Das Kleid stammt aus einem amerikanischen Museum. Die Museumsinventurnummern am Taillenband des Rockes und am Oberteil weisen darauf hin. Das Kleid ist überaus verspielt und aufwendig gefertigt. Mit der Battenburg-Spitze sind kleinere und größere Blättermotive gestaltet. Hoher Stehkragen. Dreiviertel lange Ärmel, die mit Tüll verziert sind. Hängende Zierelemente am Oberteil und am Rock aus Seide. Quasten runden diese Dekoration ab. Beim Gehen sollten sich alle diese Zierelemente bewegen und so dem Kleid „Lebendigkeit“ verleihen. Der Rock läuft in einer Schleppe aus. Sehr guter Erhaltungszustand. Der Tüll wirkt leicht angestaubt. Das Unterfutter des Rockes ist wohl erneuert worden. Kleinste Risse in der Spitze. Die Dekoration ist nicht inbegriffen.
Bust: ~ 80 cm
Waist: ~ 58 cm
Front Length: ~ 140 cm
Back Length: ~ 170 cm


From Google Translate:

This afternoon or reception dress is a dream of Battenburg lace, silk, tulle and tulle. The second-tiered dress was produced and worn around the year 1904 in the United States. The dress comes from an American museum. The museum's record numbers on the waistband of the skirt and on the top indicate this. The dress is extremely playful and elaborately crafted. The Battenburg lace features smaller and larger leaves. High stand-up collar. Three-quarter long sleeves decorated with tulle. Hanging decorative elements on the top and skirt of silk. Tassels complete this decoration. When walking, all these decorative elements should move and give the dress "liveliness". The skirt runs in a train. Very good condition. The tulle is slightly dusty. The lining of the skirt has probably been renewed. Smallest tears in the tip. The decoration is not included.
Bust: ~ 80 cm
Waist: ~ 58 cm
Front Length: ~ 140 cm
Back Length: ~ 170 cm


From Me:

So this dress was up at Augusta Auctions back in November. It reminds of a dress here that is probably from about 1903/1904. The faux bolero style was completely out of vogue by the time 1905 rolls around. The reason I believe this is a wedding gown are the amazing braids and rosettes on it.