Friday, December 28, 2012

Navy Blue Turn of the Century Dress








From the seller:

This gown dates to the Victorian 1890’s and is fashioned of a navy charmeause silk rich in shine. The gown is two piece in its construction, skirt falls full length with cascading sheer silk chiffon ruffles around the bottom with its rear flowing in a full train. The bodice is topped with pleat white silk around the neckline, cuffs in bell chiffon ruffles with ruffles fully around the neckline with a large ruffle rosette in the front center. Stitched silk belting is around the waistline, bodice interior is fully boned. Soiling is seen to the white silk around the neckline with a neckline edge having fray completely around, beaded appliques would fully hide if so desired. The bottom skirting has six inches of loose ruffling that needs to be re-tacked back into place. The condition is otherwise excellent, strong and wearable and makes for a most becoming display. Measures 32 inches around the bust, 23 inches around the waist, and 15 inches in its length with the skirt measuring 26 inches around the waist, 41 inches in front length, and 54 inches in its training rear length.

From Me:

I think this is more early 1900's than 1890's but it's in that Turn of the Century point.

American Civil War Era Mourning Dress







From the seller:

Antique Civil War Era Black Silk Taffeta Mourning Gown with Embroidered Collar as found



This gown dates to the Civil War era and is fashioned of black silk taffeta with a polished cotton lining. The skirting meets the piped waist with rich cartridge pleating, the gown closes with hook and eyes up the front, front closure is trimmed in velvet covered buttons with a collar around the neckline in hand embroidered cotton batiste with the large corners having a wheat ear couched embroidered detail. The sleeves have epaulets at the shoulder that are trimmed in three bands of flat silk velvet piping, piped seams run fully down the inner arm with matching velvet piping in chevron detail at the cuff and finished at the edge with piping and a fine lace. Wool binding trims the bottom edge hem. The gown is sewn fully by hand throughout. There is a fingertip hole at the skirt opening on the bottom front, several pinhead holes along the enclosure with split and fray seen on the middle rear back and on top of both shoulders, the splitting does not go into the rest of the gown. The bottom hem has two fingertip sized holes, sold as found, reflective of the condition. Measures 32 inches around the bust, 23 inches around the waist, 53 inches in its length, with its bottom hem flowing a full 150 inches around.


From Me:

First, this:

Second; I *think* this might be a maternity gown because the waist in the front looks a lot higher than in the back but it might be the way the mannequin is standing as well.

American Civil War Era Brown Windowpane Dress






From the seller:

We are listing a variety of antique and vintage items and we are happy to combine shipping so please check out our other items and add us to your Favorite Sellers!

This darted bodice dress is made of very sheer fabric that, based on the strong color and feel, is probably a silk/wool blend. A simple collar made of a double row of gathered tulle or netting is basted inside the piped neckline. It fastens up the front with 8 black fabric-covered buttons, some of which have faded to dark brown. The skirt is pleated in the front and sides and gauged in the back, indicating it was made in the mid 1860s. There is a pocket hole in the right side seam, but there is no sign of a pocket. The coat sleeves have deep decorative cuffs of knife-pleated self-fabric stitched down at the top and bottom edges.
The bodice is lined in the front with dark brown glazed cotton and the back with lighter brown unglazed cotton. The sleeves are lined in much thinner dark brown glazed cotton. The skirt has a short curved bottom panel of glazed cotton incorporated into the gauging at the center back to give added body for fashionably fullness there. It has a very deep self-fabric hem facing.


Measurements: Bust: 37.5 inches (95.25 cm), Waist: 28 inches (71 cm), Skirt length [front]: 36 inches (91.5 cm), Skirt length [back]: 37.5 inches (95.25 cm), Hem facing: 4.5 inches (11.4 cm), Hem circumference: 130 inches (220 cm)

Condition: The dress is in very good to excellent vintage condition. The netted collar is yellowed and the underarm areas are darkened with sweat, but still sound. I did not find any holes or tears not noted here or in the description.



From Me:

Today I'm going to go with some "somber" looking dresses. I want to save the bright and colorful for New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.

Update on the 1826 Dress Post

 I wanted to show how small the bodice was.   My hand is laid across the bodice from neckline to the point in the front.

 Close up of the armscye and smocking.


 I took this picture upside down, whoops!   This is the waist area and skirt.


 Inside of the bodice.


 This is the very front inside of the bodice.  I think the one bone you see there was added later for stability. 

 Apparently, the Schenectady Museum previously owned this dress.  Good to know when I open my own museum 20 or so years from now...

 I was trying to get a close up of the stiches.  They are very small but hard to see due to the coloring being exactly the same as the lining.

 Inside of skirt, bodice, waistline.

You can see the previous post on this dress here: MINE! 1826 Cotton Print Dress

The pin marks in the last picture are interesting.  Notice they are in a grid like pattern.  It is due to the print - or rather the dye used to create the print.   The florals on the inside of the dress - ie, where the facing fabric was turned in on the lining- are a brilliant blue and soft golden brown.  It's actually a lovely print on the inside.  However, the sun and probably poor lighting caused the dye to react to the cotton fabric on the outside and eat away at the cotton fibers leaving the small holes scattered where the light hit it most - one side is far more affected that the other making me think this is due to the way it was displayed in the museum.
 Once I get the desktop up and running, I'll see about recreating this fabric up on Spoonflower if there is any interest.   I know 1820's is a bit late for most re-enactments but at least the Civil War people could say they just took apart Grandma's favorite dress or something like that.   



Thursday, December 27, 2012

Mid 1860's Sheer Dress












From the seller:

Light and airy sheer dress, 1850-1860s. The pagoda sleeves have little notched sleeve caps and are trimmed in silk floral and fringed ribbon. This ribbon is incredibly detailed for it's size - only 1/2" wide, not counting the fringe at the bottom. Photo 11 has a close up. The bodice is entirely lined with muslin and the darts are boned with what appears to be baleen. The dress fabric is a printed windowpane light muslin - Picture 12 shows my hand showing through it. Photo 9 is a closeup of the fabric. The first photo shows a lot of contrast - the actual color of the dress is better represented in the rest of the photos. The sleeves still have their undersleeves attached at the shoulders. The undersleeves have some damage and stains as shown in photo 7. The dress has several dark reddish brown stains on the left sleeve and on various places on the skirt - mostly on the left side and near the top of the skirt. Some of these stains have holes in the middle showing that whatever splashed on the gown ate away at it. There are some holes and period mends in the dress also. The bodice closes with hooks and eyes. The underarms are a little stained but, surprisingly, fairly strong and not shredded (like so many). It is a very small dress. Measurements are approximately bust 31 inches, waist 25, skirt length 41. The dress is shown over a small hoop and petticoat which are not included. Any questions please ask. Thanks for looking!

From Me:

I'd say 1865 give or take a couple of years. Love that print!

Modern Recreation of an 1890's Gown









From the seller:

Beautiful victorian high society embellished gown. Heavy thick soft cotton velvet. Puffy sleeves. V-neck ruffle layered lace in front & back, embellished collar with gold paisley tapestry and hanging black beads. Same gold paisley tapestry on sleeve cuffs. Braided areas with beads and sequins on shoulders and extend a few inches down back , front and bust area. The front wraps and fastens with two large eye & hooks on right side. The inside has 6 eye & hooks. The sleeves are fastened with 2 eye & hooks and a snap in the center. The collar also has 2 eye & hooks and a snap in center for closure in two areas. The underarm areas have sewn-in cotton shields. Dress weighs 5 lbs.

I acquired this beauty from England over five years ago. This dress looks like it attended the Royal Palace!

32" Bust
24" Waist
36" Hip
59" Length front
66" Length back
16" Sleeve inseam
Condition: Minor flaws with this dress. The velvet is in excellent condition. One small seam tear in each underarm area, easy fix. There's some hand-stitching at hem and on arm seams. The back neck lace, 2nd layer, has a small hole but the pleat fold covers it (how perfect). Of the 6 sequin wheels, one is perfect and another wheel is in good condition only missing a few sequins, the other 4 are obviously missing sequins. The bust area is missing beads & a few loose threads. There are spots on the hem area where the thread came undone, but fabric not hanging, easy fix. Otherwise, it's in fabulous vintage condition, considering it's age. STUNNING PIECE!





From Me:

There were a lot of things that I found suspicious for this dress. First, the closure is more common in the late 1900s (1906 -1909) than it is in the 1890's but that didn't really discount it from being a true period piece. Second, the beading looked appliqued on and not original to the gown - again, wouldn't discount it but most pieces were carefully stitched on and backing removed to make it look like it was all sewn on to the dress. The way the hem looks - it could just be the mannequin but the hem seems to come up in the front and then flow out like a lily to the sides before going into the train. And what finally set this as being a costume - look at the lining. This is why I strive to find interior shots. It's serged. Yes, sergers were available in the 1890's - but only as industrial sergers. They weren't for home use. Yes, it's *possible* that this is a catalog dress but I doubt it on several accounts. The hooks and eyes (the big ones on the waist band) look modern as well and the lining is a pristine white - all these items together add up to this belonging more to a BBC special than to an actual Victorian item.

Bustle Era Dress










From the seller:

FINE ANTIQUE LACE, LINENS, & TEXTILES






Circa late 19THC. a lovely linen bustle ensemble with ornate embroidery,ruffles and bustle skirt. Extremely nice design with covered buttons on the inner part of bodice. Part of a collection form a Park Avenue estate.The fmaily were very prominent in New York.In good condition, soem age stains... needs to be cleaned.








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Item Measurements:

Approx.



Item condition:





See above..All items we list need to be cleaned.



From Me:

I'm guessing 1870's but it could be 1880's as well. I'm not sure why s/he didn't display it with a bustle - which would have helped a lot- but it's clearly a bustle dress. My guess is that did all of the listing in a rush - hence no measurements as well- and we get to at least see the loveliness.