Friday, December 4, 2015

1870's Bodice with train

From the seller:


This is an attractive bustle jacket of the 1860-1870's period, that a upper class woman would wear. A regal black velvet 1 piece in construction bustled jacket with long stylish terain recently de-accessioned from the Rochester historical society museum in New York state. The jacket still retains it's original Museum ID catalog identification tag, inside jacket with donor's name on tag.

The 1890 Baedecker Guide recommended that visitors to Paris go to the three top Parisian haute couture houses: Worth, Pingat, and Laferrière. James McCall's authoritative 1882 book refers to Pingat and Worth as two "of the three greatest artistic dressmakers to the world." While little is known about Émile Pingat the person, the surviving examples of his work paint the picture of a creative genius.

By 1880 Pingat had emerged as a master of both surface decoration and outerwear. "For dressy jackets...Pingat is the great authority on mantles" (The Queen, 11/13/1880). These two skills are brilliantly showcased in this brilliant trained jacket.

His craftsmanship was "near flawless, the epitome of the designing dressmaker's art...flashy fabrics are sublimated to subtle surface trims. His clothes, murmuring elegance rather than shouting affluence, demand close inspection inside and out" (Elizabeth Ann Coleman's classic The Opulent Era).

Petersham Label reads: reads "E. PINGAT/30 Rue Louis-Le Grand 30 PARIS"

The jacket displayed on dress form has 10 button closure that extends from the bust area to hip area, with a small stand up collar trimmed with black chantilly lace and lovely applique passementerie. The curved sleeve cuffs are trimmed with layered black scalloped chantilly lace and pleated white ruffled lace.

Museum catalog identification numbers tags, as well as fabric label marked Roch. Historical Society.

Back of jacket is skillfully constructed accented with a long flowing tail sweep.

There is no underarm discoloration inside or outside and no splits or holes in the velvet. Inside jacket is lined with white satin, no underarm discoloration, no fabric splitting. Jacket is in sturdy condition. Some small discoloration at hem line of train.

Waist: 31"
Bust: 33-1/2"
Front shoulder to hem: 25"
Back collar to train hem: 71"
Across back shoulder: 14-1/2"
Sleeve length including lace: 21-1/2"
A truly grand display jacket or for study or for display only.

From Me:
1875 Fashion Plate
This is from right before they go to Natural Form.   The bodice ends at the typical length for the 1870's - late 1860's and the waistline would be MUCH higher.  The long train in the back becomes popular in the Natural Form era but you see it starting in 1875.  The v-neckline is also typical of the time period.

No comments:

Post a Comment