Sunday, February 21, 2016

Remade 1850's into 1860's Plaid Dress

From the seller:

Rare 1860's Warp Print Gown Owned By Tasha Tudor: Woman's graceful Antibellum gown of brown silk plaid with stripes of green warp printing. Rounded collarless neckline, full huge sleeves with double flounce and fringe trim, Full pleated skirt and front hook closure. From the collection of Tasha Tudor and won at auction. Tasha Tudor lent her original gowns to the colonial Williamsburg foundation as well as he used them in her artwork for her books. The provenance and paperwork comes with the gown. In good condition with some lining issues, and numerous small holes on the skirt which is not unusual for a warp print. There is a small 1" by 2" L shaped tear in the skirt.

From Me:

"Antibellum"? /facepalm First antebellum is Latin for "before the war" - ante means before and bellum means war. Therefore anything before 1861 is normally considered to be antebellum and it's normally used on items from the 1850's. Something from the 1860's would not be antebellum. Second, it's antebellum. Antibellum would better be used to describe the 1960's than the 1860's as anti is Latin for against. We use anti still everyday and it's pretty easy to figure out - antibiotics means against biotics or bacteria in this case. You probably hear antiestablishment a lot in the news - against the establishment, normally the government.

Since this dress was remade during the American Civil War - look at the waistline and the number of pleats on the back versus the front of the dress- it is neither antibellum or antebellum.  Although, it was originally made in the antebellum period.  

1857 Fashion Plate (antebellum)
Notice the double sleeve on the black and blue dress.  You see this on a number of pagoda sleeves in the 1850's.  

1864 Fashion Plate
The waistline and the pleats of the extant dress match more to the cream and white dress in the fashion plate above.

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