Monday, December 29, 2014

Late 1860's Dress remade into an 1870's outfit

























From the seller:

PARIS LABEL 1870's MOIRE SILK BUSTLE 2-PIECE GOWN WITH TRAIN MUSEUM DE-ACCESSIONED



This is an attractive wedding gown of the 1870's period, that a mid to upper class woman would wear. A regal ivory silk moire 2 PIECE bustled gown de-accessioned from the Rochester historical museum in New York state. The gown still retains it's original Museum ID catalog tag, inside as well as string tags and the name of the person that wore the gown.

Still retaining it's designer label N. RODRIGUES, FOURNISSEUR DE LA COUR D'ITALIE, 29 BOUL. POISSONNIERE, ENTREE RUE MONTMARIRE 178, PARIS.

The bodice is decorated with a pleated net lace trim collar around the front opening with a satin bow. The jacket has fabric covered button front closure. One button missing. The cuffs are also are decorated with net lace and satin ribbon bows.

The bodice is lined with white satin and the jacket and had at one time stays that have been taken out. The sleeves have a slight curve and tapering at the elbow. The bodice sleeve caps and one underarm is badly damaged and needs attention. The sleeves have scattered small holes.

I find only a few minor problems with the skirt. The skirt closes by hooks and loops at the back and gathers with pleats in the back for a nice fall. The rear puff enhances the outfit nicely. The waist band has opened up and let out about 2" of skirt, an easy fix. The skirt is lined with a tan moire and a heavy gauze material. The bottom of the skirt has a few small areas of roughness at edges and some lace detachment. The skirt has a few very small pin holes scattered about. The skirt is in very good condition, the drape material in front has disintigrated from a stain. I have not taken off this draping, and just tucked it under to photograph. This can be taken off.

BODICE: Bust 30", Waist 24", Sleeve Length 17" + lace. Lace 2-3/4".
Shoulder to waist 12",
Across shoulder 11-1/2"

Front skirt length 41" Back length 76", waist 26"


Condition: The gown is in fair to good condition.

A truly grand display dress/gown or for study or for display.


From Me:

The bodice is so clearly 1867/1868 it looks awkward with the 1870's bustle skirt. However, if you look closely, you'll notice the skirt isn't all moire- it's a mix of a couple of different fabrics. Most likely, this was a late 1860's dress that got remade in the early 1870's to match the latest style. The lady who wore this added some lace to the waist to lengthen the bodice to the fashionable 1870's level and also hemmed her re-fashioned skirt with the same lace.

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