Monday, January 6, 2014

1790's Spencer









From the seller:


THIS PIECE DATES TO THE LATE 18TH C AND IS FASHIONED OF FINE SILK WITH A SMALL PATTERN AND STRIPES, FULLY SEWN BY HAND




THE INTERIOR AND FRONT ARE IN FINE LINEN, SILK BELTING AT THE BOTTOM




THE FRONT WOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH A STOMACHER , FRONT WOULD HAVE PINNED CLOSED, SMALL PIN PRICKS ARE SEEN TO THE LINEN.




IN SURPRISINGLY PERFECT CONDITION, NO STAINING OR SIGNS OF WEAR




MEASURES 34 INCHES AROUND THE BUST, ROUGHLY 28 INCHES AROUND THE WAIST, AND 12 INCHES IN LENGTH.




From Me:

Most likely late 1790's. A fichu would have been worn over the front closure.

6 comments:

  1. This looks more like the bodice to an apron front or drop front gown that is missing the bib and the skirt rather than any sort of spencer jacket. What a shame this piece was cut apart and is missing the skirt, I hate to see when that happens.

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    1. I am so glad you said this as when I saw the photos, I thought the same thing. That it was a standard drop front silk dress with the drop and skirts removed.

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    2. I don't believe it is for a few reasons. An apron front dress typically has ties going from the bib to the back of the dress. This has a separate belt piece that is attached at the back and comes around the front, as if to go over a fichu. Also, in most cases, if the skirt were taken for another project, why sew up the bottom hem of the bodice? The bodice pieces, of course, are too small to reuse, and most likely would have been discarded. It reminds me a great deal of this spencer at the Met: http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/108385?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=1819+spencer+costume&pos=19

      but without a front. You can see the belt closes in a similar fashion to this extant spencer.

      Some similar spencer fashion plates:
      http://damesalamode.tumblr.com/post/4050874358/journal-des-dames-et-des-modes-1798-oh-look#notes
      http://damesalamode.tumblr.com/post/6073762567/journal-des-dames-et-des-modes-1798-guess-this#notes
      http://damesalamode.tumblr.com/image/11733097667

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    3. I suppose the best thing about historical fashion is that we are all entitled to our own interpretations of things, as without a time machine, we will never know for sure :).

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    4. True! And many apologies if I sounded grumpy - getting to NYC at 3 am and having to get to work by 9 am does that to you. ;-)

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  2. Very interesting discussion :) I really enjoyed the links you provided, Isabella. These fashions are just a dream. How interesting that no extra expensive fabric (the silk) was spared when the front was intended to be covered.

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