Sunday, July 28, 2013

Remade in the 1860's 1850's Plaid dress






From the seller:

A stunning 1860’s brown plaid silk dress that has recently been de-accessioned from a museum collection. The dress till retains its original white cotton embroidered collar and under sleeves. The bodice has full pagoda style sleeves The sleeves have a puffed top and the hemline is trimmed with brown silk trim. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The silk covered buttons are decorative. The skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating and is lined with cotton. The dress is in very good condition. There is light underarm discoloration mostly to the inside lining. There is a 2 inch line soil mark at the back waist area and a few tiny splits in the puffed sleeve area. The embroidered collar has splitting at the back neckline. Bust 35 Waist 26 Skirt length 43 Width at hemline 152.

From Me:

You'll see that "random stuff" at the shoulder area before the bell shaped sleeve starting in the 1850's and it quickly dies out around 1861. However, the waistline on this is correct for the 1860's. So, my guess is we are dealing with another re-made.

"Eyes Right" - September 1860 Godey's Lady's Book

The gray dress in the Fashion plate - 1860 Godey's - has a similar sleeve treatment. After this, the sleeves with the upper arm treatment get tighter around the wrist. However, notice the waistline in this 1860 plate is pointed - something this dress isn't. In the 1860's (1861-1870, there wasn't a year zero) the waistline became less and less pointed and then started to move up. Once the 1870's hit, the waistline quickly went back to normal.

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