Sunday, September 27, 2015

18th (?) Century Jacket

From the seller:

Circa 18THC a early brocade bodice with metallic trim.In mainly strong condiiton, but there is age related wear and openings,one 2” tear under arm..,one split on sleeve.. other sleeve has a few splits..a couple of small splits near armhole, small partial seam and opening at the top on the back which can be undone .Inner lining has loss..perhaps best to remove if desired.Part of a museum deaccession.

From Me:

I've been staring at this for days and I still have no clue when it's from. The trim lines in the back and the clear stitching that indicates on the inside that this once had stays in it makes me think it's more 17th C than 18th C.

From the back, it reminds me of this portrait:
Das Konzert, 1655
See the tabs?  The trim lines in the back?  We never get a good picture of the sleeves on this extant one so it's hard to tell what's going on there but with the supported back and trim line, it looks 17th century.

...And then there is the front.  And the fabric.  The fabric, given the style and the colors, could be early 18th century - the entire jacket is no later than the 1740's at any rate. There is a similar fabric piece up at the V & A  from the 1710's.  Very similar colorways and design.  So maybe 1710's?

   But, then 17th Century did have stomacher front jackets.  I mean, there is always this:

1630's Jacket at the V&A

And then there is this dress dated to the 1690's/1700's which doesn't help for putting this extant jacket in the correct century but does narrow the date down considerably, at least:
1680’s-90’s Italy (probably), Cora Ginsburg It was altered somewhat in the 1700’s or 1710’s.Taken from Old Rags Tumblr

So...I have no idea. It doesn't help that the imatex database does have a few similar jackets but lists them as the very unhelpful "18th Century". At least if they gave "first quarter" or something similar, it would be helpful. (If anyone would like to see those jackets, just click the Imatex database link above and search for "GipĆ³".) However, even with those, the front is different.

One of the generic "18th Century" jackets from the Imatex database. The biggest difference is in the front tabs. In the extant one I can't figure out the date for, it has two very long, very thin tabs that are curved in to be wider at the top and narrower at the bottom.  All the tabs are quite thin - more in keeping with the early 18th century and...late 17th century.  Although, there were some thin tabs in some regions in the very late 18th century as well.

So, again, not sure when the jacket actually belongs too.  For now, I'm putting it in the 1710's but it could be considerably earlier or later.

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