Friday, November 20, 2015

18th Century Jumps

From the seller:

Circa 18THC. a fine Italian, French or Eiropean silk bodice with inner linen lining.In very good condition.

From Me:

Last time I checked, Italy and France were both European....

Anyway, it's from between the 1760's and 1780's, which I know isn't terribly helpful. My guess would be more to the 1780's but there are examples of jumps/stays and even bodices from earlier than that with the tail in the back. Check out a bodice and petticoat set from the Kent museum to see what I mean. The Met also has a couple of jumps. However, both have the very unhelpful "18th century" label to them.

EDIT:  I found out these were previously owned by the MET.  :-)  Here's the original photographs from their collection.


  1. This is an aside, but you referenced the Kent collection. I was wondering your overall opinion of this collection, and what in your opinion are the best college-owned costume collections.

    Thanks, Jim

    1. I really haven't thought about which of the college owned collections are the best - even the smallest of collections can have a few gems. As for the Kent collection itself, I haven't seen any of the garments in person - only online or in one of my way too many costuming books. As for their online collection, I do appreciate the front, side, and back views of each of the garments they have put up online. However, I'd love a searchable database and far more of the garments I know they have in their collection up. I'd also love a few detail shots - images of the insides, the closures, maybe even a shoulder seam.

      One of the reasons I started this blog was because sellers tend to show the detail photos that help historical costumers more accurately recreate the garments. If you can't see the closure and you have to guess how something is put together, it doesn't feel as "authentic" as something where you can document each detail to the period you are attempting to recreate. Those detail photos showing the not so pretty parts are often vital in recreating a garment accurately.

  2. I remembered that Met Deaccessions tend to go through Whitaker Auctions... and sure enough, here it is: