Wednesday, September 28, 2011

1860's copper brown dress














From the seller:

Construction of the dress/gown consists of a one pc. dress and HUGE BOW over skirt. This ensemble displays beautifully as it has a bit of change in color as it reflects the light. You will see a combination of hand and machine stitching.
I am delighted to describe this piece. (I MUST CONFESS THAT I DO NOT KNOW MY FABRICS) I DO BELIEVE THIS MAY BE A SILK TAFFETA. THE FABRIC IS OF A LIGHT HAND. I will start with the dress first. As I have stated the color is Coppertone with lovely irresident luster. I will start with the sleeves as I am most taken with the bellowing full gathered ruffles at both front and back gathered up with the decorative black ribbon at the top of the dropped shoulders. This portion of the ruffled sleeve is like a separate cap added to the overall sleeve. I will now make mention of the lovely pattern of fabric needle worked ?/covered buttons. One button is missing BUT I see that the waistband/ large bow on the over skirt covers that very well. I also want to mention that while I was buttoning I pulled one button off it will be included when I ship to you. (I have wrapped and placed in the pocket) Very nice details on the buttons and is most flattering to the entire outfit. The buttons are fabric possibly needled worked decoration. The dress is constructed in a one piece manner that closes over to right side at waist with 2 hooks and eyes that are present. Hidden pocket on skirt of right side. The bodice front has boning , I have placed a magnet on the boning and get no draw so I really don’t know what to say the boning content is. You will see a combination of hand and machine stitching. The dress/gown is fully lined with a white heavy cotton at top portion and a dark polished? cotton at bottom and sleeves. Entire bottom of skirt has the protective hem cord in a complimentary color. I believe this dress was meant to be worn with a bustle as you will see lots of pleating at back to accommodate a bustle. I have displayed with to many hoops to have achieved the proper look for the bustle foundation, but I must say once you have a mannequin all dressed you just don’t want to undo and redo it all over again!!!! Other wise I will never get these pieces of clothing offered to you!!
I will describe issues and condition on both pieces separately as I believe it is much easier to follow when done in that manner.
Measurements of dress have been taken while laid flat and at the outside of garment.
BUST 34 INCHES ALL AROUND.

SHOULDER TO WAIST 15 INCHES.
WAIST 26 INCHES.
.
TOTAL LENGTH FRONT ABOUT 55 INCHES AND BACK ABOUT 59 INCHES.

Now moving on to the over skirt. The eye catcher here is the beautiful huge bow and the flouncy fullness of the over skirt. The over skirt closes with 2 hooks & eyes that are present attached at the waistband. The bow is stitched to the waistband but also has a separate waistband attached that closes with 3 hook and eye closures all present then slips through a loop, see pictures. The over skirt may be positioned incorrectly as I see a bit of pleated underlining in front of bow which may well indicate additional room to accommodate a bustle?? The over skirt is constructed in a manner that creates a very full and flounced ruffled effect.
Measurements on over skirt;
Waist 27 inches.
Length at front where bow is placed 23 inches at longest portion and back 17 inches.
(THIS GARMENT HAS OVERALL DISCOLORATION OFTEN SEEN IN CLOTHING OF THIS AGE. ALSO I AM SELLING RIGHT FROM STORAGE TRUNKS AND YOU WILL WANT TO FRESHEN MUSTY ATTIC STORAGE ODORS WITH LOTS OF FRESH AIR AND SUNSHINE) THE LAST 3 PICTURES I AM SHOWING AREA THAT ARE SHATTERED AND STAINED)
CONDITION AND ISSUES;
We will start with the dress.
FABRIC IS FAIRLY STRONG, BUT I WOULDN’T TRY TO WEAR UNTIL SOME FORM OF STABILIZING IS DONE.
1. SHATTER TO THE RUFFLED PORTION SLEEVE (SEE PICTURE)
2. OVERALL DISCOLORATION, BUT DISPLAYS WELL AS THE LIGHT REFLECTS AND CREATES AN IRIDESCENCE.
3. UNDER ARM STAINS, BUT NOT SHATTERED OR TORN AT THE UNDER ARMS, ACTUALLY STRONG IN THAT AREA. THE STAINED AREAS DO NOT SHOW AS THE RUFFLED CAP HIDES THAT.
4. STAIN ON FRONT AS SEEN IN PICTURES.
5. ONE BUTTON MISSING.

6. SMALL AREA OF SHATTER ON LEFT SHOULDER SEE PICTURES.
8. SHATTER AT LEFT JUST ABOVE WAIST.
9 SMALL AREA OF SHATTER AT LEFT FRONT OF SKIRT, REALLY HIDES IN THE FULLNESS.
BASICALLY WE ARE LOOKING AT THE USUAL ISSUES THAT NEED TO BE ADDRESSED WITH GARMENTS OF THIS AGE. I AM NOT SEEING THE USUAL AMOUNT OF SMALL PINHOLES AND HAPPY TO SAY THE BOTTOM OF DRESS SHOWS NO TEARS OR FRAY DUE TO THE COLOR COORDINATED CORD AT HEM.

CONDITION AND ISSUES WITH UNDER SKIRT;
1. A FEW SCATTERED PINHOLES.
2. SMALL AREA OF SHATTER AT RIGHT SIDE.
3. A FEW SPOTS.
I HAVE DONE MY BEST TO GIVE YOU AN ACCURATE ACCOUNTING OF THIS GARMENT. PLEASE DON’T HESITATE TO EMAIL WITH ANY QUESTIONS THAT YOU MAY HAVE.

THANK YOU FOR STOPPING IN AGAIN.
PAYMENT IS EXPECTED WITHIN 3 DAYS OF AUCTION CLOSING, UNLESS YOU WISH TO MAKE OTHER ARRANGEMENTS (JUST CONTACT ME)
PLEASE REMEMBER ALL SALES ARE FINAL AS MY TIME IS SPENT TRAVELING THE COUNTRY SIDE, HILLS AND VALLEYS TO FIND ITEMS OF INTEREST FOR YOU.

MY ITEMS ARE CAREFULLY STORED IN A SMOKE FREE, PET FREE ENVIRONMENT. I AM ALSO CAREFUL TO STORE IN AN UNUSED PORTION OF MY HOME THAT CAN NOT PICK UP COOKING ODORS ETC.
I CAN NOT SAY WHAT THE ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS WERE BEFORE I PURCHASED.


From Me:

You'd think the discoloration on the back of the dress would be a clue for overskirt placement. ;-) Also, the caps on the sleeves should not be puffed (you can see the plastic bags bunched up in the photos she placed beneath them. ) This is a great example of the mid to late 1860's. It doesn't look to have gone to full bustle yet so I'm guessing more towards the mid 1860's in style. But, just like today, it was common to be a few years out of fashion.

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