Thursday, October 13, 2011

GORGEOUS! 1880's Walking Dress

















From the seller:

One can fully appreciate the pride these ladies took in their appearance as well as their signature of excellent workmanship done lovingly with nimble and artistic fingers, as well a talented eagle eye for fashionable detail and elaborate embellishments from buttons to pleats and so much more. It is amazing to see the combination of contrasting fabrics and textures and the wonderful details that these ladies applied to a single outfit. We see nothing like this today.
This piece displays very well. 
The color is of a burgundy brown and (the velvet trim on all 3 pieces is a rich deep chocolate brown.) The fabric of all 3 pieces is of a lighter weight. I believe to be cotton, some what like linen and is of a tight weave. I am just not sure what to call it. The fabric has a hint of a course feel as you run your hand across it and is very wrinkle resistant. (IT IS NOT WOOL)You are viewing this garment right from the trunk with out any steaming or touch up of any kind.
I will describe in detail each of the three pieces, piece by piece. I will describe condition and issues separately as I believe it is much nicer to study this quickly at a glance, rather than to wade through the full description to get to serious details.
 You will find a combination of both machine and fine hand stitching on each of the 3 pieces.
1. Starting with the bodice/waistcoat that you see pictured with the fabric covered buttons. This bodice closes with 14 small buttons and 3 larger buttons as well as a larger button and buttonhole that actually buttons the velvet trim in place at the shoulder area as you see in pictures. ALL BUTTONS ARE PRESENT. The VELVET trims cuffs in a v notch fashion( see pictures) velvet also trims the button down front as well as the stand up collar. Has a full lining of polished cotton, no bones, and full ruffled effect at bottom back to accommodate the bustle.
There is slight discoloration particularly at front shoulder area. I will give full details in condition section of this bodice.
MEASUREMENTS TAKEN AT OUTSIDE OF GARMENT WHILE LAID FLAT.
BUST 34 INCHES ALL AROUND.
WAIST 24 INCHES.
SHOULDER TO SHOULDER SEAM TO SEAM 13 INCHES ACROSS BACK JUST UNDER THE NECKLINE.
TOTAL LENGTH 21 1/2 INCHES LONG.

2. Bodice # 2. I am referring to the bodice with 18 all present silver colored flower/floral (perhaps cut steel) buttons? This bodice is trimmed down entire front with velvet, velvet stand up collar and velvet v notched cuffs. Notice the tails at back also trimmed with a touch of velvet. This bodice also has a full lining of polished cotton including the sleeves. This is the bodice that is as I see it a perfect match to the skirt. No boning.
MEASUREMENTS TAKEN AT OUTSIDE OF GARMENT WHILE LAID FLAT.
BUST JUST SHY OF 32 INCHES ALL AROUND.
WAIST 23 INCHES.
SHOULDER TO SHOULDER SEAM TO SEAM 12 1/2 INCHES ACROSS BACK JUST UNDER THE NECKLINE.

TOTAL LENGTH ABOUT 19 INCHES LONG AT FRONT AND JUST SHY OF 21 INCHES TO TAILS AT BACK.


3. The skirt is what I believe to be referred to as a pannier bustle in that it has bit of a puffy effect at sides as well as all the way down the back. This skirt is constructed in a 1 piece manner, I know that it has a look of having an over skirt, it does not. Perhaps it is better said that the skirt has an attached over skirt as there is the additional over piece. This skirt has a partial panel of velvet (see pictures) and the most beautiful elaborate pleating all around the bottom. I have pinned up the bustled portion of this skirt and have done so in a manner to better show condition of the skirt under and over. (SEE PICTURES) You will be able to fuss with the attached over skirt in a manner that will hide the holes that I felt best to show you. This skirt closes with the 2 outer buttons of glass or porcelain or even pottery???? These buttons are made to look like wood, and surely they do, I was quite surprised and amused to find out that they are not wood. There is a missing button at inside of waistband and missing hook at inside the waistband as well. The back also has lots of pleating to accommodate a bustle. The entire bottom except where the velvet insert is place is all elaborately pleated.
A big surprise as I examined closely to give accurate details was when I found a secret pocket on the left side, certainly NOT easy to get into by any means!!!!!!!!!
Skirt is fully lined.
WAIST 24 INCHES. I THINK YOU COULD ADD 2 INCHES BY ADJUSTING BUTTONS.
LENGTH IS 41INCHES LONG.
TOTAL WIDTH ALL AROUND THE BOTTOM IS 84 INCHES.
NOW WE WILL DISCUSS CONDITION AND ISSUES OF EACH OF THE 3 PIECES..
1. BODICE #1 THIS IS THE BODICE WITH THE MANY FABRIC COVERED BUTTONS. THE SEAMS ARE STRONG. THE FABRIC IS STRONG OVERALL. WITH THE EXCEPTION OF SCATTERED PINHOLES AND A FEW LARGER HOLES AS WELL, THE LARGEST BEING ABOUT ½ INCH LONG BY ¼ WIDE. YOU WILL FIND SEVERAL THAT ARE SMALLER THAN THIS, BUT LARGER THAN PINHOLES. THERE IS SLIGHT DISCOLORATION AT FRONT SHOULDERS AND SOME AREAS ON THE BACK.  I THINK THAT THERE MAY BE AN OVERALL LIGHTENING OF THIS FABRIC DUE TO AGE??? THIS IS ABOUT 1 ½ TO 2 SHADES LIGHTER THAN THE SKIRT (BUT DEPENDS ON HOW THE LIGHT HITS IT) I STUDIED IN NATURAL LIGHT TRYING TO DECIDE. THERE ARE NO STAINS AT UNDER ARMS OR SHATTER. THE LINING SHOWS NO STAINS OR HOLES AND IS VERY STRONG.
2. BODICE # 2 IS THE BODICE WITH THE METAL FLOWER BUTTONS. OVER ALL THE FABRIC, SEAMS AND LINING IS STRONG. NO STAINS ON FABRIC OR LINING. I HAVE TAKEN A PICTURE OF THE WORST ISSUES/ HOLES ON THE RIGHT SLEEVE NEAR THE CUFF. ONE OF THESE 2 HOLES IS ABOUT THE SIZE OF A FIFTY CENT PIECE AND THE HOLE BELOW IT IS 2 INCHES LONG BY ¾ INCH WIDE OR A BIT LESS. I WOULD STITCH TOGETHER 2 OR 3 COMPLIMENTARY COLORS OF VELVET RIBBON AND COVER THE SLEEVE WITH THESE ISSUES AND THE OTHER OF COURSE CREATING A VERY COMPLIMENTARY BAND AROUND FOR A QUICK FIX. THERE ARE ALSO OTHER SMALLER HOLES (SEE PICTURES) UNDERARMS ARE STRONG AND FREE FROM STAINS INSIDE AND OUT.
VELVET REMAINS VERY STRONG WITH NO WORN AREAS OR FADE.
3. NOW THE SKIRT. THE FABRIC AND SEAMS ARE STRONG. THERE ARE HOLES AS PICTURED THAT HIDE THEMSELVES VERY WELL AMONG THE FOLDS AND THE SECOND LAYER OF THE ATTACHED OVER SKIRT. THE SKIRT IS FULLY LINED NO STAINS ON EITHER LINING OR OUTER PORTION OF SKIRT. I WOULD FEEL VERY COMFORTABLE WEARING THE SKIRT.
I HAVE DONE MY BEST TO SHARE WITH YOU VERY ACCURATE DETAILS AND PICTURES, BUT THERE IS SO MUCH TO BE COVERED PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS THAT YOU MAY HAVE, OR FOR MORE PICTURES.
VERY IMPORTANT FOR ME TO MENTION THE UMBRELLA AND BOOTS ARE NOT INCLUDED. I TRY TO REFRAIN FROM ADDING ACCESSORIES SO AS NOT TO ADD ANY CONFUSION OR MISUNDERSTANDINGS, BUT I JUST COULDN’T HELP MY SELF AS THERE IS JUST SO MUCH LIFE IN THIS OUTFIT IT ALL BUT TALKED TO ME!!!!
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS ITEM IS COMING TO YOU DIRECT FROM A TRUNK STORED IN AN ATTIC AND WILL REQUIRE FRESH AIR AND SUNSHINE TO BE RID OF ATTIC MUSTY STORAGE ODOR.


From Me:

An asymmetrical bustle gown!  I adore these!

No comments:

Post a Comment